need some straight answers
 

I am getting ready to do a vegoil conversion on my 1985 300CD. I spent four hours last night reading this and other forums, and could never get a definate answer on the coolant lines. I know the supply goes comes out right above the oil filter, and then the return is either right near the firewall behind the air filter or between the motor and the little helper pump. Where is the concensus on the location of these lines? And, what size are the lines? I have heard both 3/4, one 3/4 and one 5/8, I've even read that they are 1/2. I would be happy to just pull the line off the car and measure, but I am at college with no tools and trying to buy the stuff to convert soon.
Anyone know the exact measurements for the hole that the fader switch goes in? I want to put my switch there.

:computer:

On a 300 d, cd , Td it goes on the passenger side between the block and the helper pump. On a SD it goes up by the air cleaner. That is the confusion. The reason you go in those 2 locations on your car is the water always flows regardless of your heater control/monovalve. HTH Mike

anyone know what size the coolant lines are?

Hi, If I remember, I usually make up a tee out of copper using 1/2 in and out and 3'8 out the side. I use 1/2" rubber to the rear of the car. The MB hoses push over the 1"2 copper good and the 1/2" rubber hose slides over the 3/8" hose. Don't use plastic sprinkler fittings. The heat distorts them and they leak.Also when you make up the T for the oil filter area leave enough hose so you can still get canister lid off
HTH Mike

veg conversion
 

Hello, it seems like you are getting lots of answers already, but I'll just let you know what I did on my 300TD, which I gather is similar to the CD. I T-ed the supply heater hose (the one going to the tank) into the hose coming off the block near the oil filter canister, and T-ed the return hose into the heater hose on the passenger side near the front of the block (engine side of that little helper pump). I also ran the hose bundle around the back of the engine (my filter + HE are on the drivers side) and punched through the firewall under the passenger side floor mat. There is a great little space under there to put a 3" or so hole sort of behind and a little inside of the turbo/downpipe (which, btw, I made a heat shield for) The only problem with this routing is the linkage from the accelerator to the throttle assembly. This just requires patience and judiciously placed zip ties. Hope some of this helped. Oh, one other thing, what kind of a system are you installing (components, routing, return, etc)?

There are LOTS of install pics out there for 300Ds, which you could copy. You dont have to use metal tees, but I recommend the nicer plastic ones that are harder and darker than sprinkler plastic ones. you can get them from auto parts stores. make sure to take out enough hose for the tee at the return point or you will end op kinking the coolant line there. my return line just goes over the top near the tranny dipstick and down the line to the helper pump. i didnt get fancy. i also would not do cheapo pollack valves either. spend the money on frybrids or greasecars. one valve failure or leakage can get ugly. most people use 5/8 and/or 3/4 heater hose, and sometimes both. for example, if you put a pex line in the coolant line (HIH), then you might want slightly bigger, but you could do 5/8 for that length back. dont mix and match though, it has to make sense. and once your done, dont be too eager to switch to veggie. let the car warm up all the way, then let the heat absorb into the filters and such, before switch over. and dont idle on the stuff too long (traffic fine, stuck in football game parking lot not as good). my 2 cents.

Thanks very much guys. This will be my third conversion, and I'm really looking forward to it. Earlier this year I did a '95 Dodge CTD, and then I did my Dads '97 Ford Powerstroke.
The tank will be for now just a cheap plastic barrel, maybe I'll heat it probably not. Soon I'll replace it with a custom welded aluminum tank with a HotFox heated pickup. From there on it will be aluminum HIH, Frybrid heated filter, Frybrid solenoids, and a manual valve to decide full return to tank or looped. I am going to test it out, but I am hoping that the filter will be enough of a heat exchanger all by itself. I'll have a DPDT ON/OFF/(ON) switch in the fader switches place, and the vac/oil press/fuel level/temp gauge face from a gasser benz in place of my current tach/clock. I hope it all goes well, I'm really looking forward to it. I will post full pics when I'm done.