I have an 80 300d that I'm getting ready to get running which hasn't been started in about 10yrs. It was supposedly shut down running with a bad tranny. I know what steps I'd be taking if it were a gasser ..... (change fluids, a little Marvel Mystery oil down the holes, roll the engine over by hand a few rotations, etc.) What extra or different steps should I be taking with the diesel? Anyone have any ideas or a checklist?

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78 300d 158k driver
80 300d 200k fixer
80 300d parts car
98 Cherokee 240k

" I know for certain that someday while parking or un-parking my Jeep Cherokee, I'm gonna' either pull the headlight switch right outa' its dashboard OR stomp its hood release lever clean offa' the kick panel. It's just a matter of which will happen first."

did you change the fuel filters? put fresh fuel in... new battery.

yepper ... I'll be changin' all that out for sure too .... thx

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78 300d 158k driver
80 300d 200k fixer
80 300d parts car
98 Cherokee 240k

" I know for certain that someday while parking or un-parking my Jeep Cherokee, I'm gonna' either pull the headlight switch right outa' its dashboard OR stomp its hood release lever clean offa' the kick panel. It's just a matter of which will happen first."

Sounds like you have it covered.

Take out the glowplugs to make it easier to turn and test that they still glow.

I just might disable the glow circuit and turn the engine over till oil pressure showed on the gauge after changing the oil out. Those bores and rings plus bearings are going to be pretty dry. In fact it might pay to even pull the glow plugs for no load on engine bearings or minimal. This is basically just in case a little surface rust has occured on journals etc. Dry on dry is not particularily good under load especially..Since engine has not seized you hopefully will end up running. If not check for any valves stuck open a little from dragging in the guides. Ocasionally you can determine this by valve lash being far too great. Since you will not be able to tell if they are not totally seating . If the problem is suspect other than a compression or blowdown test exercise them a little. Valve stems can rust a little as well but probably not a problem with the probable excess clearance of used guides and some stem wear. Much depends on if it was in fairly dry storage or not I imagine. Ten years is quite a period of time after all.

thx to all for their input ....

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78 300d 158k driver
80 300d 200k fixer
80 300d parts car
98 Cherokee 240k

" I know for certain that someday while parking or un-parking my Jeep Cherokee, I'm gonna' either pull the headlight switch right outa' its dashboard OR stomp its hood release lever clean offa' the kick panel. It's just a matter of which will happen first."

a friend of mine showed me a engine pre-oiler he made for his collector car to be used after sitting a while. he used a 1 gallon freon tank, put a configuration of valves and fittings on the top of it and puts a couple quarts of motor oil in it. then he airs it up with about 40 psi, hooks the oulet hose he has attached to it, to a pipe plug on the side of his engine that goes into the oil galley of the engine, opens the little valve on the tank and wham, fresh oil is forced into the engine galley, to the rods and mains and cam. then he disconnects and re-plugs the galley hole in the engine and starts it with oil alreaady lubricating critical areas. i may still have a picture of it if anyone is interested in making one. total cost of the thing was under $35 if my memory serves. .
davidh

please??

I have seen some pre-lube rigs like this for big rigs and personal/ light commercial aircraft. They sell for in the $hundreds to low $thousands.

Seems like a great idea to pre-lube areas that need some love before starting.

Thanks
PMU

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Phil
Previously loved
variety, but I miss the 99 F350 PSD- 37k, traded, damn

Current stable
98 E-300 TurboDiesel, 253k
http://www.facebook.com/people/Philip-Underwood/762882374

I had a '79 300d that hadn't been started in a long time. It was a real bugger to start. I finally got it to start by towing it and putting it into drive. This turned the engine faster and built up the heat in the cylinders. BUT.. if you have a bad trans, that precludes you from doing that. It still never started good cold until I CHECKED THE VALVES. It had a few tight ones. It started good after the adjustment.
The oil in the cylinders should help too to seal the piston and cylinder.

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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.