Just bought a practically rust free 1985 300D, turbo runs great, engine has perfect compression and every single button works... even the ACC is working (for now)

This is my first diesel and though I have owned and restored many 60's fords, learing this MB and diesel puzzle is like starting over and I am loving it. Almost wish there was more to do on this car.

The local MB repair shop, Frank's has been in business for 51 years with only one employee/owner. This guy has more MB parts then almost anyone after 51 years of collecting and repairing. He told me it was unbelievable for haivng over 205,000 miles that except for the dash cracks (which I guess were pooely designed underneath) that this car is near perfect. Origianl paint and seats have zero rips or holes.

So long winded enough, I repaired the only problem of the fuel line leak at the rubber holder under fornt drivers door.

Here is my question, still reading?

Only things he found on a thorough inspection was

1) adjust the valves and check head bolt torques, suggested yearly.

2) Replace rear torqtion (spelling?) bar links at some point.

Now,
#1 I can do, read in a manual on the car and that is way within my mecahnical abilites - anything out of the ordinary to look for?

#2 What suspension piece is he referring too, I can go up there on monday but would rather got someone here to save me the trip. Is it the Rear stabilizer bar or?

Suspension I have had to do little above the replacement of shocks and some odds and ends. I am a motor guy for the most part. Any help on identifying what he meant and I can look it up better.

Thank you and I am already starting to search for a 2nd W123 for the wife she is loving it so much.

Eric

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New to the MB Diesel and loves it.
1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D
1965 Ford Fairlane Wagon
1967 Ford Mustang
had more.... toys limited to 3 cars..

1: That's an easy job. There is plenty of documentation on valve adjustment here. I do suggest that you get the two special bent wrenches. (Should be about $60 LINK). I'd also suggest you get the 3rd valve holding wrench.

2: He is talking about the sway/stabilizer bar links. There is a plastic link on each side by the rear wheels that can break from age. They are $11 parts and very easy to replace. LINK

i also suggest finding a stubby or shorten a 14mm wrench so you can make minute adjust ments.. i was hung up for 20 minutes on one valve because i could not get the wrench to fit onto the bolt no matter the direction.. plus i used 2 custom shortend wrenches to do the adjusting after my original job and it was soo much easier..

Thank you - this forum is great. Both replies in minutes and the exact info I neede and links to boot....

If anyone needs info on 60's Fords I have a million bits of wisdom, but I am a virgin in these waters.

Eric

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New to the MB Diesel and loves it.
1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D
1965 Ford Fairlane Wagon
1967 Ford Mustang
had more.... toys limited to 3 cars..

That's what we are here for.
Take a look at the MBShop wiki page HERE. Lots of great guides.

I would leave the head bolts alone unless you are planning on pulling the head.

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Jim