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#16
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wait- did you mean the rubber ones or copper ones? the 617 filters come with only the rubber one for the housing. the 603's come with the ones for the oil filter lid as well as the large rubber one but neither have the two small rubber ones for the base of the shaft. on the other hand a filter for a 116/117 comes with the large copper crush ring for SL oil pans as well as the smaller ones for sedans/coupes with the usual style oil pan. they should just give you the right ones with al filters, does it really cost that much more if youre giving them $20-30 ($9 for me ) for a dealer oil filter?
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
#17
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Quote:
My 617 Mann filters come with 2 crush washers- 1 copper, 1 steel, the big oring for the filter housing, and every once in a great while I'll get the smaller orings that go on the filter housing stem in addition to the above. Big markup on those stealership filters. Kinda cool getting the inside scoop. Cheers, Bill |
#18
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So the Fram Filter is best or equal to the dealer/OEM ones in quality? I can get fram ones right from autozone for like $8-9....if they are good I'll just get those! When I got my OEM oil filter it came with the housing rubber ring, (normal one) and also a rubber ring of the same size but it was 2x as thick. However, no crush washers. The Hengst ones always come with steel/copper washers and the rubber gasket. So do the Fram's, I checked one out at Autozone, says they're made in Turkey. Are they good? I'll buy those if they are....the dealer ones are $15. I want the best filter I can get since I now run my oil 5k (synthetic)
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#19
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Geez, what dealer charges that much for an OE oil filter? The last time I bought one at the MB dealer for my 603, it was $8 and change!
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#20
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Only the one made in Turkey. The others (Mexico, india) are trash.
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#21
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Hengst ones are made in Germany and the OEM/dealer ones are made in Austria. I have heard that the Hengst ones have the junk in them too though....and that only Fram or OEM = good.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#22
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I like this setup on the MB, with the built-in bypass section. With a properly cleaned-out filler tube, how much difference does the bypass section make in the condition of the oil?
Oil filter "discussions" are nothing new to me. Oughta go look on the LOST KJ CRD forum. Probably at least four different multi-page threads on oil filters and oil, and those bloody things have only been on the road for a year and a half. That's one of my peeves with the CRD. They slung the oil filter under and behind the engine, such that without skid plates even a decent sized road gator could take it out, much less what could happen if you went off road with the beast. Plus the fact that they only used a spin-on full flow filter, oil turns black again 5 minutes after you've changed it.
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Just say "NO" to Ethanol - Drive Diesel Mitchell Oates Mooresville, NC '87 300D 212K miles '87 300D 151K miles - R.I.P. 12/08 '05 Jeep Liberty CRD 67K miles Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club |
#23
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Copper Washers.....
G'mornin' Folks,
I am compelled to chime in here...... 1st) they are not "crush" washers in the true sense of the word! They are seal rings!! 2) When you heat them, and then cool then, it softens the copper....called anealing.....there is another post someplace relating to "Banjo" fittings where I mention this. 3) Save all of those extra copper washers.....they are used all over the place, in German tubing fittings.....they are also sized to DIN standards. You may find that extra copper to be really handy in your fuel injektion, auto transmission, or hydraulic leveling systems. I personally prefer MANN (Mann & Hummell) filters, I suppose because their products are used industrially in all sorts of systems, and I am most familiar with them. SB
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Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
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