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#1
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Cracked Control Arm--Not much time
I've been hearing a clunk when I make a sharp left hand turn for awhile so today I decide to take it into Les Schawaab so they can tell me what's going on. They eventually call me under the lift where my car is and point and the problem: Driver's side control arm tab (rear side) is completely cracked.
This leads me to two questions: 1) Is it still somewhat safe to drive? (as in what are the odds my wheel is going to fly off in the next few weeks) and 2) Can it be welded (and if so can anyone tell me who can do it in Oregon before I head off to school on Sunday). Picture attached shows the hideous, spirit crushing crack.
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'84 190d 2.2 - Silver Converted to 5-Speed '84 190d 2.2 - Blue Factory 5-Speed '76 300D (W115) Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances |
#2
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i wouldnt drive it... just the thought of the left wheel suddenly lodging it self sideways while going 65 mph doesnt sound fun or anything related to loosing steering
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#3
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Dude, not worth your life risking it.
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2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles 2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles 1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles 1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles (On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!) |
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Quote:
Negatory on both counts. I'd consider that a terminal failure. Unless somebody knows if that mount can be replaced (I don't know if it's removable) and you can swap it, DO NOT DRIVE IT. I'd say it's a parts car now. Unsafe for anybody to drive on public roads. Last edited by ForcedInduction; 09-12-2006 at 09:12 PM. |
#5
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You're really not making my day.
Question: Is this the same as what happened here? That's what gave me the slight hope that this could be welded...
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'84 190d 2.2 - Silver Converted to 5-Speed '84 190d 2.2 - Blue Factory 5-Speed '76 300D (W115) Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances |
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It is NOT a parts car. My 85 had the same issue. Probably why I got it for the price I did. They pop rivited a piece of sheet metal. I went to a salvage yard and had one cut off for $40. It took about 4 hours to change. PM me and I'll give you decent directions.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
#7
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YOU might be fine with welding it, but I would not trust welding on such a major suspension part to hold under daily stress.
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#8
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i am not clear as to exactly what is cracked in the picture.
imho whatever it is can be replaced. welding if done by a qualified person shouldnt be a problem. but if it is near the pan of the car be careful about setting the undercoating on fire. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#9
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If you drive that car your not only risking your own life but every other motorist on the road with you.
However I do agree that's it's definitely not a parts car. I don't know if I'd go the welding route I would find a replacement. Danny
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#10
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On mine it was the rear trailing arm, and that can be replaced. I am unclear on what your picture is showing. If that is where the trailing arm attaches it will deffinately take a qualified welder. If its just the trailing arm, it unbolts, and you push the axle out of the hub and it will drop out.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes |
#11
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I went and took a wider angle shot. Outlined in green is the cracked tab. In blue shows some other damage which suggests it could have been caused by impact, maybe?
Anyway I called the body shop who did the repairs to my car when ity got hit and they said they've seen this type of problem before and they believe they can weld it. Should be able to bring it into them next week. (actually I won't be bringing it in as I will be at OSU by then) A little embarassed to say but it's made the clunk since february....
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'84 190d 2.2 - Silver Converted to 5-Speed '84 190d 2.2 - Blue Factory 5-Speed '76 300D (W115) Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances |
#12
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id have them weld it and maybe weld over both sides if possible a gusset or something..
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#13
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I don't see why it can't be welded as long as the person doing the welding knows what they are doing. Make sure they replace the control arm bushings while it is apart.
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Jim |
#14
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mac
I would weld it then put a plate over the whole thing,weld then drill the hole and put the bolt though both the old welded piece and the new plate. better than new! Steve
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85 300d in progress |
#15
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As one or two other posters suggested, the key is getting a qualified welder to weld it properly. And reinforce it. You aren't going to find this type of person at your local body shop UNLESS they have a frame machine on premises and routinely perform this type of work.
NOTE the LCA is putting pressure on that joint. To properly repair it, the LCA probably needs to be removed OR the bushing needs to be replaced AFTER the repair. I'd be more inclined to have a front end specialist sublet the welding to a welder (bring the welder on premises) and then have the front end put back together properly. Further that joint controls part of the front end alignment.
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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
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