M603 Oil in Crossover Pipe - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BenzDiesel · #31 09-19-2006, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

I've got bad news and worse news. First, the OM603 has the same sequence of int/exh for all 6 cylinders... it doesn't alternate like the OM617 engine. See photo below. So if you put them in some alternating order, you have the wrong seals on some valves, and the stem diameters are different.

Well, gsxr, looking at your picture of the head, I installed the seals in the wrong order. I hope you are right as it appears looking at the head that you are and although I don't want to redo the valve seal replacement job, I'll happily do it, if it is going to reduce my oil consumption. Thanks man.

About the S rated oil, that is what I used. I didn't see where Mercedes specified the C (Commercial) grade oil. And since the thing was drinking oil, I figured that it could squench it's thirst on cheap oil, comparatively speaking to C grade oil. Plus, I noticed that the dealer would always use the cheapest gas they could find to put into the car after it was serviced. A Buddy's gas was just as good as Amoco to them.

Also, gxsr, I went back to check my resources on the valve arrangement. I followed the instructions, but apparently the information printed was inaccurate. I'm going to check another souce to see if the information is inaccurate there, as well. Anyway, thanks for the pictures. It never crossed my mind, since preventing dropping a valve and having to pull the head had all of my attention, at the time. Also, you have a tendency to believe that what is printed is accurate information, when many times, it isn't.

BenzDiesel

sixto · #32 09-19-2006, 03:37 PM

Has anyone tried to measure piston protrusion through the prechamber hole? I imagine it'd be difficult to clean soot off the dial gauge contact area on the piston.

Sixto
93 300SD

gsxr · #33 09-19-2006, 03:43 PM

I think the bigger problem would be fabricating a way to measure precise depths while moving the dial indicator 6 times. You can do this to measure TDC, but as for protrusion above deck height, I dunno. How would you measure the level of the block, and then measure the piston height, to subtract the two numbers? I'm sure it could be done, somehow, but I don't know if it would be any faster or cheaper than yanking the head. Next time I have the head off a 603, I'll have to see what the protrusion is on a 3.0L... never thought to check that before, since I haven't had consumption problems (yet).

BTW - the only MB engines I know of that have a reputation for using oil are the M103, which has short-lived valve guides, and the infamous 3.5L diesel. The M119 V8 and most other diesels are usually pretty good about using oil. Not sure about the M104 or the newer M113 V8's. As for BMW... I haven't a clue.

beaulieub · #34 09-20-2006, 11:10 PM

If indeed my oil consumption is from a bent rod in #1, won't the injector be pretty fouled compared to the others? Isn't that an indication of a bent rod?

sixto · #35 09-21-2006, 12:00 AM

Why would it be fouled?

Sixto
93 300SD

#36 09-21-2006, 12:02 AM

I think that only works with spark plugs.

beaulieub · #37 09-28-2006, 06:06 PM

When I get ready to put the intake manifold back on, can I use some type of liquid gasket to seal it up? I plan on probably removing the intake again soon so was going to reuse the current gasket that looks good and is stuck to the manifold. I've seen high temp and low temp gasket seal. Any suggestions what to use?

Jadavis · #38 10-25-2006, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jadavis

My 87 300D uses 1/2 quart per oil change. I change the oil every 5,000 miles. I do not top up in between. You are using a lot of oil.

-Jim

I posted that a while back. I have my cross over off now and will have the intake off tonight. They are both coated with a nice even layer of sludge. This does appear to be normal, scanenged oil from the crank case coating the inside of the cross over and intake over thousands of miles. (Mine has 231,000+ miles. I don't know if this has ever been clean before. I did not see any obvious indications of them having been previously removed.)

-Jim

sixto · #39 10-25-2006, 02:38 PM

EGR bakes crank case oil into soot. Otherwise it would scrape off a lot more easily.

Sixto
93 300SD

Jadavis · #40 10-25-2006, 02:45 PM

It came off of the cross over pretty easily with a 5 gallon bucket 2/3 full of purple power, mineral spirits, water, simple green, and biodiesel. I bought a plastic bristled brush and used it. Now I have a bucket of black gunk that I will use to clean the intake when I get it out.

I'm not really happy about the stains on the outside of the intake. I'll worry about that later. The car is no princess, but I would rather make it look better, not worse.

-Jim

beaulieub · #41 11-02-2006, 05:34 PM

Well, I FINALLY got around to doing the compression test today. Engine was stone cold, and ambient temp was about 58F. All 6 cylinders read 375#'s. Thats good isn't it? Although a warm engine would probably provide more reliable compression #'s, doesn't the fact that all read the same show that I DO NOT have a bent rod problem here. Doesn't this make the turbo seals look even more suspect? Again, I'm using about 1 qt of oil every 300 - 600 miles.

Brian Carlton · #42 11-02-2006, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beaulieub

Well, I FINALLY got around to doing the compression test today. Engine was stone cold, and ambient temp was about 58F. All 6 cylinders read 375#'s. Thats good isn't it? Although a warm engine would probably provide more reliable compression #'s, doesn't the fact that all read the same show that I DO NOT have a bent rod problem here. Doesn't this make the turbo seals look even more suspect? Again, I'm using about 1 qt of oil every 300 - 600 miles.

I believe that you've got sufficient data to condemn the turbo seals. However, with a consumption of one quart every 300 miles, you should be able to feel the impeller wheel move around a bit. That's quite a bit of consumption from the turbo and there should be some indication that the rotor system is not exactly running true within the housing.

sixto · #43 11-02-2006, 05:53 PM

Balance among cylinders is the best thing you can hope for. Potnetially a rod is bent and carbon in the combustion chamber is restoring compression. That perfect match would be too much of a coincidence.

Disconnect the valve cover breather hose from the turbo intake and cap the turbo intake. Run that way for a while. If there continues to be oil in the mixing and cross over pipe then the turbo must be leaking.

Sixto
93 300SD

Jadavis · #44 11-02-2006, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jadavis

I have my cross over off now and will have the intake off tonight. They are both coated with a nice even layer of sludge. This does appear to be normal, scanenged oil from the crank case coating the inside of the cross over and intake over thousands of miles. (Mine has 231,000+ miles. I don't know if this has ever been clean before. I did not see any obvious indications of them having been previously removed.)

-Jim

When I compared the amount of build up to the photo at the beginning of this thread I realized how bad his build up was. Mine was nasty and bothered me, but his build up is cutting into the diameter of the opening in a meaningful way. Makes mine look kind of nice, by comparison.

-Jim

beaulieub · #45 11-05-2006, 08:51 PM

I meant to say that all glow plugs had black carbon on them. Dont know how old they are. But glowplugs from cylinders #1 and #2 had some off-white residue on them that none of the remaining 4 had. Also, Brian, I got my hand down into the charge side of the turbo and checked movement of the turbine. Not much at all. A very little side/side and none along the axle axis. Any meaning to any of this?

Bert