Pulled my engine last weekend - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

New2MB · #1 09-20-2006, 09:12 AM

Well I finally found the time to pull the engine out of my '87 300SDL. There wasn't really anything wrong with the function of the engine but the block is so incredibly rusty that I had to paint it.

The original number 14 head doesn't appear to have any cracks and there was no evidence of a cracked head when it was running. So I think I'll just leave the head on for now, if it needs head work later I won't have to pull the engine again (although it was the easiest engine I've ever pulled).

I'll pull the pan and take some measurements now that I have the shop manual. I figure I should probably replace as many seals as I can get to and the lower guide rails as well.

I've got the exterior of the engine stripped except for the injection pump. So here's my question- do I have to remove the injection pump? If so, is it as hard as it looks? Thumbing through my shop manual the remove/install instructions look quite tedious so I was thinking I could leave it on and just work around it. Is this possible? Is this even a good idea or am I just being lazy?

vstech · #2 09-20-2006, 09:22 AM

UNBELIVEABLE! pulling the engine to PAINT IT? wow, you have a lot of time on your hands. you HAVE to post before and after pictures. US 617 drivers need to see another 603, so post a pic of all this.
John

New2MB · #3 09-20-2006, 11:09 AM

Yeah it's a bit excessive but rust here in Michigan is a big issue. I plan on having this car for a very long time and the rust and salt will eat this car up in a few years in Michigan. The body is clean but the block is so rusty I thought it might rust through (ok, a slight exaggeration).

I took some pictures while I was removing the engine and I'll take some more of the engine stripped down. It's ugly. I'll probably have to spend about a week cleaning it after work. There was an underhood exhaust leak.

I'm planning on brushing on POR20 for paint. Any other block painting suggestions?

Any aluminum cleaning suggestions? I've tried ammonia and a wire brush, they both work ok but aren't that great.

asnowsquall · #4 09-20-2006, 02:13 PM

rusty block? Spray bar and chain oil on it. Yes, the same stuff you put in the chain saw. An air compressor and a $40 gun designed for spray chip guard on rocker panels works slick. Great for undercarriages also. Stops rust. Metal likes oil.

vstech · #5 09-20-2006, 02:51 PM

it is available at most a/c repair supply shops.
I know what you mean about winter car rust. I have a buick in my lot from ohio, and MAN what a rusty mess.
John

vstech · #6 09-20-2006, 02:54 PM

don't forget to cover the fasteners. you may even want to get some ceramic coating for the exaust fasteners. if you ever want to dissasemble in the future, prevention is great.
Daily washing the engine and frame is a good idea in your area as well.
a heated garage is a good thing too.
I designed a heating pad for garages to help melt and dry cars in your area. let me know if you want info on it.
John

Hatterasguy · #7 09-20-2006, 07:07 PM

You should color match the block to the car, and polish the valve cover. That would look cool.

Ken300D · #8 09-20-2006, 07:14 PM

You can only see the 603 -14- head cracks if you remove the head from the block. They show up around the valves - typically between the intake and exhaust on a cylinder.

Ken300D

sixto · #9 09-20-2006, 08:46 PM

How can a fellow who pulls an engine to paint the block say it's a lot of work to pull the IP?

You'll have to pull the vacuum pump to remove the IP. Mark the relationship of the IP shaft and timer splines so you can get the IP back without losing time (as in IP timing, not movements of a clock).

You can get most IP seals from MB if any are leaking.

If the vacuum pump doesn't have 4 screw heads on the front cover, replace it with the newer style pump.

Seems like you need encapsulation panels to keep road salt off the block once you clean and paint it.

Sixto
93 300SD

asnowsquall · #10 09-20-2006, 10:03 PM

"Seems like you need encapsulation panels to keep road salt off the block once you clean and paint it."

Here again, use the oil after its painted. Metal and good paints like oil.

I had time for detailing when I was younger, now its nice to look at but I don't have time with 3 kids. Besides I find that I get a little nutty when I have so much time and $$ into a car. Oh ya thats right I'm a car

and I don't keep them that long anymore.

New2MB · #11 09-20-2006, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

How can a fellow who pulls an engine to paint the block say it's a lot of work to pull the IP?

You'll have to pull the vacuum pump to remove the IP. Mark the relationship of the IP shaft and timer splines so you can get the IP back without losing time (as in IP timing, not movements of a clock).

You can get most IP seals from MB if any are leaking.

If the vacuum pump doesn't have 4 screw heads on the front cover, replace it with the newer style pump.

Seems like you need encapsulation panels to keep road salt off the block once you clean and paint it.

Sixto
93 300SD

Because I've pulled engines before, I've never even seen an IP. Fear of the unknown. In any case, I'll go ahead and pull it, why not.

I'm also painting the engine compartment, replacing seals, hoses, gaskets, motor mounts, crank bearings if necessary, timing chain rails, and quite a few other things, my original post wasn't quite accurate.

What are encapsulation panels?

New2MB · #12 09-20-2006, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asnowsquall

"Seems like you need encapsulation panels to keep road salt off the block once you clean and paint it."

Here again, use the oil after its painted. Metal and good paints like oil.

I had time for detailing when I was younger, now its nice to look at but I don't have time with 3 kids. Besides I find that I get a little nutty when I have so much time and $$ into a car. Oh ya thats right I'm a car

and I don't keep them that long anymore.

What type of paint would you consider good for an aluminum block?

New2MB · #13 09-20-2006, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken300D

You can only see the 603 -14- head cracks if you remove the head from the block. They show up around the valves - typically between the intake and exhaust on a cylinder.

Ken300D

Thanks for the tip. If there was no evidence of a cracked head when the engine was running should I take the head off and check just to be sure?

I figured that since I can do the head while the engine is in the car I would just wait until I have a noticeable functional problem with the head before rebuilding or replacing it.