I have 81 240d 4spd with 617 out of 83 300sd...triple k turbo, 240d flywheel,
3" exhaust from turbo housing back, with muffler mounted in resonators location, boost gauge installed via alda line, pyro installed about 1.5" from exhaust outlet. Chain shows no stretch and pump timing in dead on, crisp throttle repsonse and quick spool up! The question is when under boost gauge shows 15psi+ I have seen 20psi at times. Pyro shows 800f with engine temp at 1/4 inch below 80...You can hear the boost in pressurize the intake and there is ZERO blowby... Oil level is dead on everytime and MPG is excellent...How long till turbo explodes as such high psi, but low pyro temps... I have also ran propane via ricer tube, with neat results and 950-1000f with ZERO blowby...How much can 617 handle? thank you

Ever seen the C111?

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Yes I have..I meant psi wise...the triple k sweet spot is 12-15psi correct? then if I have seen 20psi, which is wasted boost correct? The stock rings will handle 20psi or more? I'm limited by the rear end and 4spd but I have the rear end out of the 83 sd, have seen a ratio sheet and it seems the same if I remember....please correct me if I wrong. I have read tons of stuff and work on some of these, but I'm wondering if I make my own intake and exhaust manifold then I can add bigger turbo.. or more fuel hell something i dont know...just so fun to play with...and when it builds boost :fork_off:

What is the purpose of running such high boost levels?

You simply stress the head gasket much more than necessary without obtaining any more power.

I run 13.5 psi and it's overboosted at that level.

Did you adjust the boost level? If not check out your wastegate. If I am reading your post correctly one reason for your seeming low EGTs is the fact that you are measuring Post Turbo.

From egauges.com: "Now, there is much discussion about the actual placement of the probe, and if you have read our instructions, you will find that we recommend the probe be placed into the down pipe. This is the easiest place to mount the probe and the least likely to allow the entrance of shavings from drilling and tapping into the turbo (also referred to Turbo Outlet Temp). However, you have to keep in mind that on the AVERAGE, the temps will be between 300 and 400 degrees cooler than what is actually being inputted to the turbo itself.

That is why many people choose the more extensive, more involved installation method of placing the probe into the exhaust manifold. This method will offer you a more “realistic” idea of the true turbo temp, and a more “real time” reading of the temps."

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Yes I turned up boost, I understand placement of the pyro is dependent upon how well it reads...I wondering about relpacement with a larger turbo and self made intake manifold...so forth....I know the performance end has been discussed but im wondering about making performance pieces with reliability being a key factor...thnx

to improve on? You have installed in a 240d a 617 turboed engine with a 4 speed transmission, plus the rear end from the SD to boot, which tells me that you are a VERY, VERY competent mechanic for that era of Mercedes diesels. Then your car has zero blowby and uses zero oil in between oil changes and your IP timing is spot on, which is a dream for most of us who have OM617 powered cars. Now, that tells me that you are "light years" ahead of most owners' expectations of what they could ever dream of their diesel powered Mercedes Benz cars to achieve. In other words, you are in Mercedes Benz diesel heaven, in my opinion. If I were you, I'd be trying to get that million miles out of that car. Also, you can graduate on up to the OM603 and master those cars, as well. I know I would do it if I were you. Now about your boost, I don't know, but it sounds good to me to be able to get 20 psi boost pressure. I just know that your "turbo" be SCREAMING every time you get into it. Just drive the thing and enjoy. How is the paint and the seats on your car?

BenzDiesel

I would not worry as much about the turbo as the pistons. Make dog gone sure that you are getting accurate egt's. Anybody know what temp the pistons melt at?

I have a friend with a pumped up Powerstroke and I saw 1200dF on his egt gauge. I'm not sure what the maximum is but I doubt if he is doing anything towards obtaining high mileage on it.

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Jim

1200F is not too unreasonable if the measurement is pre-turbo.

Kraut - Did you do anything to the IP after turning up the boost? The IP is matched to the stock output of the turbo, so by turning up the boost with no extra fuel you are accomplishing nothing. If you really want to tune the engine more why not look at adding a VNT turbo to eliminate lag?

If you are reaching 1000F Post turbo you are defiantly nearing the "danger zone"

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

There's a thread on here somewhere with a picture of a melted piston from high egt's. I've read somewhere that post-turbo egt's are 150-300 degrees lower. With the propane, it seems you are approaching melting temperature.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

15psi is the KKK's max limit on this engine. Pushing more psi out of it forces it to spin past 120K rpm. 20psi is WAY past it's safe operating limits/shaft speed.

Thanks for the replys....The seats and paint are great, like 78% all things considered. I don't have tubes or floatys in seats, there are no tears, and no duck tape holding paint on..lol....The sd rearend hasn't been installed, I have read a post which contained a a sheet of ratio's, and I believe? they were the same???? I THINK. I haven't turned up fuel inside pump just aldl...There is small and I mean small amount of black smoke upon accel, but you must be behind the car with lights on to see....I would love to turn up pump but am worried about the side effects of over fueling at idle, if there are any....I know I need intercooler but that involves reclocking turbo and messing with intake...So if I'm to go through all this, why not make a new intake and some kinda header, along with better turbo??? I KNOW SOME OF THIS IS WELL DOCUMENTED, but its like I can't stop...Each time I drive it I'm thinking damn there must be more...Thank you ForcedInduction...thats what I was thinking, about shaft rpm...and will turn down psi ASAP....

want to come play with my jet engine once its done, i think im going to use a turbo off a cummins. the blades edge will be excedding .9 mach ^_^ fuunnnnn

100,000rpm is over 1,666.7 rotations per second. Not the kind of thing you would want to stick your fingers into.

You can play with turbos, exhaust, boost, etc all you want but it won't make any more power until you feed the engine more fuel. You can get about another 20% power increase from the stock injection pump, beyond that, it's time for 7mm pump elements a la Myna Diesel. (read: $$$$) The ALDA is still limited by the internal full-load fuel stop, richening that way will increase fuel at low RPM, but will not increase peak power. Increasing boost beyond what the engine can use just makes heat, not power. My engine makes the same power at 12psi that it does with 18psi, so I left the boost at 12psi.

Side note... I've got my EGT probe in the #1 exhaust port and have seen >1450°F temps, at which point I chickened out and lifted. That was under extended WOT. Don't try this at home, kiddies. Under normal driving it rarely exceeds 800-1000F.

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Dave
Boise, ID
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