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  #1  
Old 09-24-2006, 02:23 AM
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Rear window issue driving me mad

1981 300TD. The left rear window usually goes down 90% of the time (with either switch) and up 40% of the time. Tonight, it wasn't coming up, so it was off the the search function and braingear. I took the door apart, disconnected the window from the regulator, pushed it up and removed the regulator so I could play with it. I can hear it engage to go down when I push the switch, but not to go up. I tried the switch from the right side and got the same result. As a last resort, I ran wire straight from the battery to the leads between the switch and the regulator. Voila, smooth quiet running both up and down.

So, I think the problem is in the wiring, especially since it has the same behavior with both switches. Any ideas on how to trace this or where to start? What's the best wiring diagram source?

Mike

PS, I LOVE working on this car. The leads are actually NUMBERED!

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  #2  
Old 09-24-2006, 02:37 AM
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Since it is a rear window, check the wiring at the "child safety switch" in the console (or wherever yours is). The wiring at that point is common to both switches and there might be a junction that has corroded or worked its way loose over the years.

Braingears has some of the wiring diagrams.

http://mb.braingears.com/

For my 1985 car, the windows are not in the electrical diagrams (says "next index"). In any case, the diagrams may not give the route of the wires through the car from the front switch to the window, and you need to trace it out, checking each connection along the way. You may want to pull the console and the carpeting so you can see where the wires go. I wish there were an easier way -- maybe someone will chime in.
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  #3  
Old 09-24-2006, 02:39 AM
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make sure the switch is clean. thats the most common problem
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Old 09-24-2006, 08:41 AM
a famous author's bathtub
 
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Location: Southern NJ
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look here

try looking for mutiliated wires in that grommet that lets wires pass form the b-pillar to the door. i had the same problem and this was the case.
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  #5  
Old 09-24-2006, 11:58 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
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Try looking in the fuse box under the hood and

locate the window switches. In the fuse compartment on the driver's side near the firewall, they will be those silver, square box, looking things. They control the windows, the seats and the auxillary fans. Your fuse indicator chart in the fuse box might tell you which one operates what. But, a quick trial of unplugging and seeing what does or doesn't work will help you to decide which switch operates your problematic window. But, at least you know that it is not the motor or the window tracks that are causing your problem, which to me puts you way past half way home toward solving the issue.

BenzDiesel
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2006, 03:02 AM
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Location: CA... No. of S.F.
Posts: 890
I had the same symptoms on one of our 1980 300D's...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambrettaman View Post
1981 300TD. The left rear window usually goes down 90% of the time (with either switch) and up 40% of the time. Tonight, it wasn't coming up, so it was off the the search function and braingear. I took the door apart, disconnected the window from the regulator, pushed it up and removed the regulator so I could play with it. I can hear it engage to go down when I push the switch, but not to go up. I tried the switch from the right side and got the same result. As a last resort, I ran wire straight from the battery to the leads between the switch and the regulator. Voila, smooth quiet running both up and down.

So, I think the problem is in the wiring, especially since it has the same behavior with both switches. Any ideas on how to trace this or where to start? What's the best wiring diagram source?
... electric windows and eventually found it to be one of the 2-N-1 control switches on the console. I even drilled holes in the side allowing me to spray cleaner and then WD-40 through the switch... but to no avial. Some of these switches can actually be taken apart, cleaned, and reassembled... but it you strike out with cleaning/repair, you should be able to shop and find these for ~$40 each in an after-market brank. My switches were cracked so it make it an easy decision so I think I replaced both switches on the console and one of the single switches on a back door... all three for ~$100.00!

They all now now work flawlessly... and the child-proof center button on the driver's side of the console also disabbles both rear window switches.

Regards,
Sam
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  #7  
Old 09-25-2006, 03:12 AM
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take them apart, clean them with rubbing alcohol and then clean the contacts with an eraser.
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  #8  
Old 09-25-2006, 02:44 PM
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Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 15
Wiring Issues

Last time I fought issues like yours, I had two intermittently broken wires inside the pillar (85 300SD). My window would go up with the door open, but not closed. By holding the window switch in the up position, and tugging/wiggling the wires going into the pillar, I could get the window to work/fail. I isolated the breaks by sticking a THIN sewing needle into the wire (i.e. thru the insulation, into the conductor) "upstream" of where I though the break was, and metering at the window switch connector in the door. I ended-up splicing-in new segments for the two broken wires. I never had to do this with a w123, so YMMV. Good luck!

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'80 300D (150 kmi, Foster Car)

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