to keep engine from Starting during a Valve Adj I...and I get the 27mm on crank how?

[DubMutant]

Good'ay mates.
I am in the middle of a valve adjustment. I am ready to begin the adjustment in the AM. I have 2 concerns before I complete the job...

1. best way not to loose my hand- I need the car to NOT start but I do not have a hand vac. pump... any other suggestions?

I have a 27mm deep dish socket but it aint fittin on the crankshaft unless i remove the fan..so,
2. how do I do that- is it the 3 bolts on the fan blade carrier?-

I am willing to use P/S pump but I need to replace the belt, which is another question altogether...(feel free to answer that. I kinda started it but ...it looks like a pita. )


And yes- I have used search- all day.
Thanks.

[kerry]

I've always used the PS pump bolt to turn it over during a valve adjustment. Never turned it fast enough to start it. You don't have to turn it very much.
The fan is bolted to the clutch and the clutch is bolted to the water pump.
If it's a standard transmission, jack up a rear wheel, put it in gear and turn the engine with a lug wrench on the wheel.

[DubMutant]

Sorry. I need to fix my signature

300 D turbo Automatic

Well, Id rather use the crank- I would like to be able to get the pulley off the pump should it ever go.

So, does that mean I just remove the three bolts to remove the fan?

[TheDon]

no need to remove the fan

i did it with the car on level ground(plus being skinny helps )

but yea if you have to put it on ramps and get under and fish the raches up between the fan blade shroud and lower pulley on the crank, it takes some finess to get it on the bolt, once you do turn it the correct way..you will master getting it back on the bolt if it falls off..

Craftsman 27mm deep socket and 1/2" ratchet will fit rom underneath without removing the fan.

[dannym]

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

Craftsman 27mm deep socket and 1/2" ratchet will fit rom underneath without removing the fan.

I think DEEP SOCKET is the key here. There is no need to remove the fan.
Also look at this link, step #7. I put that there for a purpose. You have a full 180 deg of movement before you move the valve. It's not absolutely necessary to have the cam lobes pointing straight up.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

Danny

[Motorhead]

If you want to use the starter to crank but not start, use something to hold the ENGINE STOP lever on the throttle linkage in the stop position.

[DubMutant]

Besides the late start in part to the uncooprative weather, I finished (finally) at 3:45pm (yesterday). Thank you Motorhead, dannym, ForcedInduction , TheDon, and kerry edwards.

I used a Craftsman 27mm 1.5" drive deep recommened socket on the crank- got at it from front fender area. I rotated it slowly at first, until I got the correct amount of crank rotation out of 2 or three small(er) movements.
With an automatic trans and my slow rotation, I dont feel too concerned about the engine starting.

I did an initial attempt with the feeler gauge; unfortunately, I have no idea which valves were actually in adjustmen. My initial feeler gauge measurement was between the valve adjusting nut and rocker arm (RA)...so after I discovered that this was not correct, I RE-adjusted the valves, measuring between the RA and lobe up position.

*This is my one question regarding the entire exercise- What is the difference in measurement between these two physical locations of measurement? and why does it matter?*

Anyway, played with it for way too long and got it buttoned back up in 30 minutes. Unfortunately, my return fuel lines are old and one got dead. argh. an extra 45 min store, etc.

OBSERVATIONS:

Physical:
1. gnarly, leaky, and stiff valve cover gasket
2. valve train/ camlobes appear in good condition (can still see blue/yellow paint on valve springs)

cold startup / cold idle:
1. Air Filter Housing (AFH) shakes the same amount, possibly more, than before adjustment. (this is something I noticed when I first got it- AFH bracket was broken)- what else causes shaky AFH?
2. white-ish smoke, lasted not more than 1 minute.
3. seemed like a quicker warm up time
4. no other distinct observations

warm idle:
1. It throttle responce seemed better- er...I blew a dirt patch into the grass where the muffler exhaust was. sorry Dave.
2. at WOT there was little to no black smoke.
3. sounded awesome(er).

test drive:
1. YAY!!!
2. shifts all were ULTRA LUX smooth- no flares/chunkyness
3. improved throttle responce- mainly with boost
4. less turbo lag.

Left to do:everything else
Thanks. B-

[DubMutant]

I was still wondering if there was a reason you measured the feeler gauge clearances between the Cam Lobe and Rocker Arm VS. the rocker arm and valve adjusting nut (top of valve, i dont know what you call it)-

is it because the cam lobe's shape? the clearance needs to be around the cam because the rocker arm takes a beating from the cam?

[Diesel Giant]

This is how I do them

http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm

I can do a complete adjustment in about 30 minutes from start to putting away the tools. It really is easy to do.