This '85 300D was donated and the title was canceled 2 years ago, my understanding is it had been sitting in storage since or couple years before then. My 1st goal is to get this vehicle to be a daily driver, then a "reliable" daily driver.

On top of my head even before driving it off the lot, change oil / oil filter; replace air filter; check / top off transmission fluid. Keep in mind time will be very restricted here.

Once it gets to its new home which is about 25 miles away, christen her with a bottle of champagne, replace all fuel hoses; replace all O-rings, gaskets; drain / clean fuel tank, check timing chain.

Get it inspected and deal with safety issues.

As it rains, find out leaky seals and replace them.

And as I have the money, replace rusted parts; deal with convenience items.

Any ideas on if my train of thought is on the right track, if I am missing any "mission critical" points are wellcome.

Thanks in advance.

I would check tire pressure and brakes before I drove too far. I would probably bring along some PS fluid, brake fluid, and water for the trip home. I would also bring spare set of fuel filters and a large adjustable wrench, just in case it gets clogged on the trip home. I would stop a the closest station and top off with fresh fuel. Keep an eye on the oil pressure and temp gauges.

Expect brake issues in any car that's been sitting idly for that long. You may want to try an emergency stop before you get it out on the road. If you're going to blow a caliper seal it's best not to do it on the highway .

Once home, every filter and every drop of fluid on the car should be changed. It wouldn't be a bad idea to do regular items like coolant hoses and thermostat, perhaps brake hoses, fuel hoses, etc..

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1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K
2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's)
1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K

FamilyGuy,

Stomp on the brakes as hard as possible with the engine running. This will find any weak spots in any of the brake lines or hoses. Better to break something standing still than in a panic stop. Then test brakes for stopping power before if nothing broke in the test above.

Leave any o-rings alone if they don't leak. Oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filters have not been damaged by non use, so this is not a priority. Unless the tank is contaminated with fungus, no need to clean the tank or replace the fuel filters. If fuel system is contaminated with fungus, only a fungacide like Biobor will cure problem. Then be prepared to clean the fuel tank strainer (don't fill the tank yet) and replace the fuel filters as they plug up.

Old fuel in tank is no problem. I have had Diesel fuel more than 10 years old and it ran engine as good as new fuel. Fungus doesn't get in tank from non use or from the air. U have to get fuel contaminated with fungus and then it grows in your fuel system.


Take a good spare battery along. A battery that has been sitting for 2 years probably can't be charged and might never hold a charge. If U can "jump" start the car, and have another car along, U might get away with out a spare battery. U might buy a new battery (AutoZone has good battery at a fair price) because U probably will need one anyway. Check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running. It should be about 14 volts if the alternator/v-reg is working correctly.

When Uhave to valve cover off the check the timing and chain tension and adjust the valves.

Craig has good advice, Cateaux has U doing a lot more than is necessary. I don't call hoses and thermostats regular change items, most of them have been in my 300SD 26 years and 275,000 miles. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

P E H

i think fungus can grow from water in the tank alone, too.

usually if you treat it with the fungicide it will come out thru the filters.

good luck

there is a good chance if it was running fine when parked it will run and be fine now.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Tom W,

I disagree. Since most of the water in the tank gets in there by condensation, it is distilled water. There has to be fungus in the water to grow, if it does grow in water.

I still say U have to get contaminated fuel to get fungus growing in your fuel system. In 40 years of Diesels and 500,000 miles, I had only one car contaminated by fungus.

P E H

Get in it and drive it like hell for 500 miles or so on the highway. That is what a MB 617 turbo or none turbo engine and drive train does best. The rest can be fixed as you go along. These cars are meant for the highway. Expect alot of front end work as you rack the miles up.

Regards Tom

Sounds dumb, but what is the water for ?

Ok, next step is to tackle the question of picking a repair manual, should I just order one from MBUSA, or are there any better CD's books around ?

Which is the most "layman" friendly (i.e. instead of hydromagnetic eloctrostatic regulator = green thingie near the radiator with the blue hose )

Thanks

for the radiator and or to drink if your stranded in the middle of nowhere...and i have no idea about the green thingie with the blue hose... a pic would help..

The Haynes manual is pretty good for that. Although I think it sould be used in addition to the shop manual. And of course, the vast knowledge base on this site, available by using the search function... Good luck with the car!

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Sonny


86 190D N/A 2.5L Auto 265k "Ruby" -Sold-
79 300D 242k "Condi" my first -sold- RIP
2013 chevy sonic hatchback - had to for work

I've seen brake pedals that feel firm well when the car is standing still, but fade while the car is moving. It doesn't matter for the master cylinder so much, but the calipers vibrate when you press the brake pedal while the car is moving. This helps the fluid to move past the caliper seals if the seals are in less than stellar condition. I certainly see the value of testing the brakes while standing still, but I wouldn't feel comfortable on the road unless I had made a successful panic stop.

For me, it is a question of reliability. Hoses are rubber and they deteriorate. When one hose starts to feel soft, I replace them all. I consider it cheap insurance. Thermostats are spring loaded, and springs fatigue. My thermostat was bad when I bought my 300D (177K miles). Besides, they're cheap and convenient to replace when the cooling system is drained. As for filters, what concerns me is the unknown. If I don't know when the fuel filter was last changed, for example, I change it. It may last 10K miles, or it may last 10. I prefer to change it when it's convenient for me, as opposed to on the side of the road. I may change a part or two that still has some useful life left in it, but I think it's well worth it to have peace of mind.

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1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K
2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's)
1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K

Now THAT is some good advice, and a good mantra for these cars.
PEH is the fungal expert, and also a champion of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"(I mean that in a good way). That certainly has it's proper place, but that is often with a "known" vehicle, not one you just picked up. New battery is also a good idea. 4-5 years of peace of mind.
Search ebay for the Mercedes shop manuals. There is a volume 1 & 2 for the chassis, and an engine manual. (617.912 for non-turbo, 617.952 for turbo). I would also get a manual on cd, they are usually 10-20 bucks. There is also an online manual that somebody could supply a link for. It is sometimes working, sometimes not, so I wouldn't necessarily rely on it.
Keep us posted......

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John