How do I decide if the time has come? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

networkboy · #16 10-04-2006, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailor15015

Granted, I can't do things like head work but I sure as heck can strip it down myself, saving major $$ on labor, and send it to the experts. Get a good manual and a nice warm garage and you've got yourself one of the best winter projects you could hope for.

Bingo,
I bought my 123 as a second car-seat friendly vehicle. I have a gasser I can drive if the 123 is down or if the Camry is in for service. This winter I'm taking a two month break from work and have only three things scheduled:
1) Costa Rica witout the kids
2) SF Zoo and other "fun stuff" with the kids
3) wrenching on the 123 and replacing all the rubber (every boot, ball, and bushing on the undercarrage, and all the vac jointers).

One of the things I'm considering is pulling the rear axles and major suspension components fully out and taking them to my indy. The repair bill for him to do everything is about $4K. If I pull everything and all he does is source parts and farm out any required machining it's $800+machine shop. Once I get it all out I may tackle it all myself

So before I wander too far off topic, you can save disgusting ammounts of money simply by doing the grunt work yourself.

RobTheMod · #17 10-04-2006, 03:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

I'd suggest that work get me a comfy car that I enjoyed driving if it was that important to them that I attend their meetings so far from home or that i be compensated sufficiently to purchase my own. A CDI comes to mind...

What he said.

I don't know of *any* vehicle, regardless of cost, I would trust on a do-or-die schedule like you're speaking of. Everyone I know who travels that far on business does so by airplane, and if they're delayed because of travel problems, they're not fired b/c of American Airlines.

I am as comfortable in my 300SD as i would be in any car. Maybe her transmission will fail hundreds of miles from home, on one of my trips. or maybe due to some cosmic mishap, the timing belt would break on the (hypothetical) two year old Accord I might be driving instead. Honda warranty might cover the latter scenario, but you're still on the roadside with your blinkers on.

I say maintain the 300D and enjoy, a 124 TD is a rare and enjoyable machine.

muleears · #18 10-09-2006, 09:16 AM

my employer will only let me drive if it is cheaper to pay me mileage than airfare. I LIKE to drive my car (and collect the mileage $ instead of USAir

) Going through toll booths is much more enjoyable than airport security

I suppose I can keep the Benz for the daily driver (70 mi. daily commute) and take the Prius

on the long trips. Hate to run up the miles on the Prius though.

So I guess the consensus is to keep maintaining the 87 124, giving it what it needs and just wait until the big one hits (major motor or tranny problems), then saying goodbye. For what I have spent on the car if it died today

I'd have to give it a kiss and a fond thank you right where it died.

Thanks to all for the input. I think the above is what I'll do. (maybe an Earl Schieb paint job so she'll feel better about herself though)

Brian Carlton · #19 10-09-2006, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

I agree, the cost per mile is going to increase after a certain mileage. It's just a matter of what you want. I could probably drive a new CDI for about $.50 or .60 per mile, but I'm not interested. I think I spend around $.30 per mile for my 300D. I could probably drive a newer W124 for less (in the short term) but I don't want to do that either. I could run a series of W123s into the ground for $.15 or .20 per mile, but I'm not interested in doing that. Just a matter of what toy you want to play with.

You're a special case.

Naturally, if you want to keep a specific vehicle forever, despite the cost, it's your perogative to do so.

But, generally, the question is asked because the individual is unsure of the economic realities of what they have. Our answers are returned to the fellow with this thought in mind.

Naturally, if you do prefer the vehicle that you currently have and the resources are available, a new engine and a rebuilt transmission will allow the vehicle a significantly increased lifespan. But, in reality, the cost to achieve this will likely be greater than an alternative.

Once the annual cost of maintenance and repair gets above $.15/mile, it's time to consider an alternative for most people.

DslBnz · #20 10-09-2006, 10:19 AM

If you know the car inside and out. Driven it for 10's of thousands of miles.
Keep the blasted thing.

Purchasing another one opens up a whole 'nother can of worms from previous owner(s') shortcomings.

Purchasing a used car, in any case, is always flip of the coin (especially a 20 year old example). And usually, unless you pay a ridiculous sum for a premium example with all service records, you acquire a (sometimes) overwhelming amount of work necessary to make it right and ready.

Used car dealers? They're looking to make a profit, anyway they can (hence some of their questionable policies and actions).
As for private parties. There is ALWAYS a reason as to why they are ridding themselves of their vehicle. Usually many factors.

At least now you KNOW your car is mechanically sound. Your experience tells you that much.

The best method would be to purchase another W124 or W126 to keep as a second car. That way, when a part fails, you will not be stranded.

muleears · #21 10-09-2006, 10:35 AM

driven it about 10K mi. I do, however, have a great set of records for the car, and it has had excellent maintenance. It appears it would be cheapest just to keep maintaining the car until it dies a natural death, then buying the lower mileage 126.

Brian Carlton · #22 10-09-2006, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DslBnz

The best method would be to purchase another W124 or W126 to keep as a second car.

.........or two...........or three.

vstech · #23 10-09-2006, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muleears

driven it about 10K mi. I do, however, have a great set of records for the car, and it has had excellent maintenance. It appears it would be cheapest just to keep maintaining the car until it dies a natural death, then buying the lower mileage 126.

this message however shows you have only had it 1 year at most. probably less with the driving you are doing, I hope you do have good records and a known history with this car.
it is good you have a known good head, keep a good track on the oil/grease service, and keep a good eye on the temp gauge.
I would find a shop that can rebuild your transmission, and budget for it's repair in the near future.
then see how long ago the head was rebuilt, and see if the timing chain was done at the same time. see if the tentioners were replaced... if not, plan on them needing repair soon.
if the costs of this exceeds your desire to keep the car. get another.
John

muleears · #24 10-09-2006, 05:04 PM

with a reconditioned #17 at 272K mi. Receipts show no mention of other repairs at that time (chain/tensioner/etc.). I have converted to Evans NPG+ waterless coolant so hopefully cooling won't be an issue. Water pump, radiator and fan have all been replaced. I have another post running now dealing with intermittant delayed shifting which started a few days ago. Only other problem the trans. has is slight pause before reverse engages (do I need to start looking for a tranny shop?

). Thanks for the input.

#25 10-09-2006, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

You're a special case.

Naturally, if you want to keep a specific vehicle forever, despite the cost, it's your perogative to do so.

People have told me that.

That's why it's called a hobby.

I'm back in upstate NY for a couple of weeks, it still hasn't snowed here.

captainmonk · #26 10-09-2006, 06:26 PM

every diesel i own has a grey beard longer then mine and they all get me home from the road or the sea good regular maintence is the key No tow trucks 100 miles at sea Regular maintence to me includes oil anaylisis every oil change every time to determine wear patterns still cant spell thou sigh

muleears · #27 10-09-2006, 08:15 PM

analysis done for the last two changes. Only thing out of the ordinary was sodium and lead. Blackstone (the oil lab) thought this may be due to the WVO i had been burning, or a coolant contaminant. I have not noticed the coolant level change at all, so I don't think that is it.