HELP identifying 603 turbo stuff,
 

what are these? EGR(C) i suppose, what lines do i have to disconnect? there are 2 lines going to that area... one going to "C" the other to "B"...

what are A,B and C just so we're clear? .:)

there is a HOSE going to "A" what is its function?

thanks guys

oh and another thing, it seems there's this AFM thingy underneath my airbox, what does it do? i thought these things were all mechanical...

there are these vac pods beside the AFM thingy, what do they control?

Geez, you haven't had the recall work done to it yet??

Your EGR is already disconnected. I believe A is the wastegate. Not too sure as I have a OM617.

i know C is the EGR and its been disconnected. First FREE upgrade you should do is take it to the dealer and have them remove that trap oxidizer as it can ruin the turbo. Its the metal football looking thing that they replace with a hollow tube and replace your entire exhaust system with a new catalyst converter system.

And its FREE since its recalled. Call your dealer and have scheduale to have that removed under the open campaign. And ask them for a rental, if your lucky youll get a nice CDI;)

:)
i'd have it done for free if it applied to us folks here in the Philippines. :) Unfortunately for me... i'm on my own regarding that matter. :eek:
i'm having a replacement fabricated.
there are two lines going to that area, one going to "B", which as of now is unidentified.... any guesses?

and what about the AFM? what does it do?

A is the wastegate actuator.

B is the air recirculation valve (ARV).

C is the EGR valve.

The big thing the EGR valve accordion pipe is attached to is the trap oxidizer. You've had offers to ship one out to you. Accept one already!

There should be a rubber hose from the compressor outlet to the wastegate actuator. DO NOT REMOVE THIS HOSE!!!

The hose to the EGR valve and air recirculation valve can be removed. Performance and fuel economy should improve.

The airflow meter (AFM) under the air cleaner is only for emission controls; EGR and ARV). If you disable EGR and ARV, you don't need the AFM. Likewise you can remove the vacuum amplifiers as they control EGR and ARV.

Sixto
93 300SD

Frankly, I don't trust removing the vacuum hose to the EGR valve. With age the EGR valve can leak allowing exhaust gas into the mixing pipe even with no signal to the EGR valve. Put a closing plate between the EGR valve and mixing pipe or a closing plate without the EGR valve.

Likewise, the ARV can leak even with no vacuum signal. I plugged the feed port to the ARV with a 13mm freeze plug and JB weld. The ARV has to stay in place because there's an opening to the compressor inlet. Without the ARV you'll get unfiltered air into the turbo. I suppose you can plug that port too but it's not round.

Sixto
93 300SD

as always, thanks for the replies... most helpful! :)

I've yet to contact hitman for that trap replacement. :)

better to cap that EGR opening huh? will do...

how do i plug that ARV? haven't thouroughly inspected the ARV yet, i don't remember seeing any inlets/outlets anywhere offhand, just the vac line... what does it do? where does it get air and where does it vent it?

thanks

If you remove the 3 screws, the ARV will fall off the compressor housing. There a hole at the opposite end of the rubber plunger. You have the option of tapping and plugging the hole or fitting a 13mm freeze plug like I did.

The ARV leaks boost to the compressor inlet to soften in onset of boost which somehow gets the trap oxidizer to operating temperature more quickly, or so I've read. Anything that reduces boost better have a better reason for being than that :rolleyes:

Sixto
93 300SD

Got it! thanks! Off with the ARV!

btw, have you gotten rid of your wood and leather stuff yet?

Haven't found a 140 with fabric and no wood willing to trade. I don't think it exists :(

Sixto
93 300SD