Ignition Switch problem 1981 300 SD. - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

whunter · #46 01-30-2012, 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I have tried to remove the tumbler from a switch I have as a spare, with the same results. I have both a tumbler unit out of the body so I can see where the wire tool (I am using an Allen wrench) goes in, and can see the bar moving in that would allow the collar to turn.

However, when I try it on the complete switch, I can't get the collar to turn. I can tell I have it in the right spot because the tool goes in just a little further than even 2 degrees of rotation either way. I also can't turn the key with it like this.

I also have an '81 300SD that the ignition switch is stuck just between the position that the key is inserted, and the first position (ign on). The car is drivable (steering unlocked) by jumping the starter. However, there is no brake lights or glow system. I know I need to at least get it in the no. 1 position to remove the tumbler, but I wanted to practice first with the parts I have to make sure I can do it when I get the switch in the car in the right place. I am at my wits end! I have viewed all the photos on Diesel Giant, but still can't get it to work.. HELP PLEASE!!

If it is W123 or W126?
The pin diameter is critical to fully disengaging the locking button.
Until the button fully retracts, there is no possibility of unscrewing the sleeve.

.

Clemson88 · #47 01-30-2012, 09:59 AM

These ignitions seem to sense panic. Relax.

Mr Whunter is right about the size of the tool being critical. It appears you have the right size to fit your experiment tumbler and perhaps it will work on the other one too.

Take a strong flashlight and shine it into the hole on the face of the tumbler. Slowly turn the key in the area where the magic location is reported to be. If your eyes are good you will be able to see the right spot to insert the your pin release tool.

Be patient when you get the tool inserted. Rotate the sleeve back and forth a little. Sometimes its difficult to get it started in the right direction.

If this does not work for you try using something a little smaller than your allen wrench. I used the copper center of a standard cable TV wire.

Luck!

ROLLGUY · #48 01-30-2012, 10:35 AM

I can tell that I am pushing something in the hole, and it does feel similar to the cylinder without the collar. The collar is loose enough that I can feel the bar holding it, but it will not turn no matter how much I fiddle with it. I can put the tool in the cylinder and watch the bar go in flush, but it does not work with the lock with the collar. The bigger problem I have is the lock in the car is stuck to the left of the first position. I don't want to break the key off, but I still may have to lower the column and drill out the pin anyway.

ROLLGUY · #49 01-30-2012, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

If it is W123 or W126?
The pin diameter is critical to fully disengaging the locking button.
Until the button fully retracts, there is no possibility of unscrewing the sleeve.

.

The car is a 126, but I think the lock I have is from a 123. I am not sure if they are compatible, but I may need one for sure if I end up grinding the holding pin to remove the lock.

whunter · #50 01-30-2012, 10:57 AM

adiver2b · #51 02-03-2012, 06:23 AM

Hi having just pulled the tumbler from a 83 300d I found that some of the units may take a fair amount of pushing on that pin . I found a small philips screw driver from a watch makers set gave me the force needed. One of my tumblers needed the extra push and this tool gave no blisters.

ROLLGUY · #52 02-03-2012, 11:41 AM

I have tried all the tools that are mentioned in the above threads (thanks Whunter), and still couldn't get the lock apart. I was able to remove the lock assembly from the car without grinding the pin, and replaced it with the one I had from a 123. I still have to find a way to remove the cylinder from the old lock so I can get the correct keyed cylinder from the factory, and install it in the car. Right now I have 2 lock assemblies that I can't get the cylinder out of (one in the car, and the other out). I thought of drilling a small hole on the side of the collar right where the pawl is, to help push it in so I can unscrew the collar. What do you think?

whunter · #53 02-03-2012, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I have tried all the tools that are mentioned in the above threads (thanks Whunter), and still couldn't get the lock apart. I was able to remove the lock assembly from the car without grinding the pin, and replaced it with the one I had from a 123. I still have to find a way to remove the cylinder from the old lock so I can get the correct keyed cylinder from the factory, and install it in the car. Right now I have 2 lock assemblies that I can't get the cylinder out of (one in the car, and the other out). I thought of drilling a small hole on the side of the collar right where the pawl is, to help push it in so I can unscrew the collar. What do you think?

Have a local GTG and offer free coffee + donuts, one of the members should be able to show you in person.

It is more of an art than skill.

.