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Ignition Switch problem 1981 300 SD.
Yet another hiccup with the 1981 300 SD.
I went to start the car this afternoon and the key would not turn. After a couple of tries, the key turned and I was on my way. I remembered in all of my recent reading on this forum that this is a symptom of imminent cataustrophic disaster. I only had to start the car one more time to get back home. It worked fine that time. Since then the car has been sitting in the driveway and I have been searching for threads on this issue. I have also read the Diesel Giant how to. Do you guys feel that I only need to replace the key cylinder, or should I replace the entire ignition mechanisim. Any advice, as well as direction to posts on how to do it as well as how to disassemble the dash will be greatly appreciated. Many of the links in the old threads no longer work. I guess I'll be doing more searching tomorrow |
Answer:
Ignition Cylinder Tumbler replacement; mixed diesel/gas
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/142232-ignition-cylinder-tumbler-replacement%3B-mixed-diesel-gas.html#post1065596 |
Thank you. All of those threads should give me plenty of reading tomorrow.
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Check to make sure its your key cylinder and not your steering lock. I drilled a hole in my steering lock while the pin was inside and broke the bit in there when mine broke so it could never come out. No need to worry about it popping out when the car is on if the bit falls out since the internal mechanism still holds it in.
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I had a similar problem. Found info on this site for a teflon based oil (brand??)
Whoever posted it said it was recommended by a locksmith, freed my ignition key and I am also able to use the passenger side lock. Might be an easier fix. WD 40 didn't do the trick. Came in a small black bottle from a small hardware store |
My eyes are blurry from reading all the threads relating to this, and I have many more to read. I haven't even started to search yet how to disassemble the dash on this '81 300 SD.
As I take a break for a while, I have a few questions. I have the 126 body style, I'm pretty sure. See how ignorant I am about this car? The Diesel Giant instructions are for an '85 300 D, same animal? What about the 123? Same instructions apply? I have also seen posts regarding E class cars and others. I have seen some posts about removing the key cylinder and using a screwdriver in place of a key. I am not at all concerned about theft with this car. Is this an option for me? Other than the theft issue and the obvious "tackiness" about using a screwdriver for a key, what are the drawbacks? Would the steering wheel lock still cause me a problem? If I can remove the cylinder and use a screwdriver to keep driving the car without fear of being stranded, that's what I'll do, for now. I'm trying to digest all of the information I can before I tear into this. Thanks for all of your help. whunter posting the links to the threads was a huge time saver. |
I think the 81 is a 126, but if it has round headlights...no
I think 80 was the last year for the 116 body style. I hope you don't use a screwdriver on the car, but it is yours to do with as you please...keep reading.
John |
I've been looking at some pictures of other cars and I'm pretty sure I have the 126.
In my continued reading, I see that most MB dealers can have a replacement cylinder in ablut 3 days for me. That's not too bad, but the closest dealer is an hour away from me. Just a pain, but oh well. I have read conflicting statements as to whether any trim pieces have to come off before removing the cylinder. Any clarification? Do I understand correctly that once the new cylinder goes in, or if I use a screwdriver in the meantime, that as long as the ignition turns I do not need to worry about a lock up of the steering wheel lock causing me a problem? |
Just did this repair on a friend's 85 300sd
After reading many links here and the DieselGiant pictoral, then talking to a buddy who is a AAA locksmith, I was able to fix his ingnition in about an hour.
The key absolutely would not turn. Wasn't sure if it was the lock tumbler or the entire assembly at fault. After looking at all required to remove/replace the ingition lock assembly, I was praying for a simple tumbler replacement. Anyway, after trying everything I'd read about and still not being able to get that key to turn, I called my locksmith friend. He suggested I flush, flush, flush the key slot with brake cleaner, contact cleaner or WD-40 until it runs clear (This to remove all the impacted grahite and other crud). Then tap on the bottom of the assembly whilst attempting to turn the key. He said it was essential to tap directly parallel to the the key slot. After we flushed all the crud out of the tumbler, I crawled up under the dash and tapped with a large screwdriver and hammer while the car owner turned the key. Almost immediately the key turned. After a few hoots and hollers, I then followed the Dieselgiant instructions for removing/replacing the tumbler. Now his key turns quickly and easily everytime. I'd say replace the tumbler while you can still turn that key. As long as you are able to get it in the first position, you can easily get it out. edit: If you can still turn the key, all you have to remove is the black plastic cover around the tumbler on the dash face. If the key is stuck, you'll need to take off the panels below the dash face to get to the assembly to tap on it. If the entire assembly needs to be replaced, well then you get to pull off all kinds of fun and exciting bits! |
In my reading, I thought the "black plastic cover around the tumbler on the dash face" was screwed on and could only be removed once the cylinder was out. Is this a different piece?
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It is screwed on. However, it holds the tumbler in. You need to get the key into position 1, then unscrew that collar while pressing on the dent. Then the tumber will come free.
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I do not know what (if any) similarities exist between a 126 and 123 ignition, but my problem was that the shaft between the tumbler and the switch broke. This turned out to be a very BIG PROBLEM because the ignition has to be turned to unlock the connector from the switch. I spent three hours chipping my switch apart to release the connector. I had over fiver hours in the whole project. I recommend that you check for this.
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Thanks for the clarification. Just a screwdriver to pry it off?
I'm going to do more reading tomorrow and then I'll tackle it on Sunday. If I have this right, and please correct me if I don't, I can snap off the round black plastic trim piece, put the key in postion 1, use the wire tool to press in and release the cylinder, and while pulling straight out on the key, the cylinder will come out. At this point I can use a screwdriver to start the car and order my new cylinder which will just slide in. Right? |
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Once that is off, turn the key to the first position, stick a large staightened paper clip into the hole. This will push down the metal tab which then allows the black ring to thread off. Once that's off, you will be able to slide the old tumbler out and install the new. Give me a sec and I'll post a link to the DieselGiant pictoral. |
Read this. It's for a 123, but the lock assembly is the same.
http://dieselgiant.com/repairignitionlock.htm |
Frustration mounts...
Thanks to all of you, especially whunter, who have responded to me. Whunter found MANY more threads than I came across on my own. I guess he knows how to use the search function much better than I do.
To the point. Despite reading, over the last three days, EVERY one of the posts on this problem that I can find, I have not been able to remove the tumbler assembly. Some of the posts are contradictory, but that is attributable to different years and models. I have printed out the ones that I felt were most applicable. I have a ream of paper beside me in the car as I refer to different threads to try and solve the problem. I am talking about a 1981 300 SD. 126 body style. My ignition has only one hole in which to stick a wire. Some posts have said to put the key at the second postion. I feel this must be wrong, as the wire can barely be inserted at that spot. Most posts have suggested having the key at the first postion. When I do this I am able to insert the wire about 1", not the 3" that some of the posts call for. I'm not sure if this is the right postion, as even a few degrees left or right of the first postion still allows the wire to be inserted. In fact, I can have the wire inserted about 1" and still turn the key a couple of degrees in either direction. Some posts call for using the wire to apply pressure while pulling straight out on the key. Some call for the black collar to be unscrewed CCW while applying pressure with the wire. I'm not sure which task it is I should really be struggling to accomplish, so I have tried both, to no avail. I have used different thicknesses of wire (all with bevels on to end) and I have toiled with them over several hours to the point that I have a blister on my thumb from exerting pressure on the wire. Perhaps I am being over cautious in even undertaking this task, as the key has only bound up on me once and I was able to turn it again after a little jiggling and persistance. Since then I have only had to use the key a few times to start the car. I currently have the car parked with the key in the first postion, as I figured that if I put this repair off it will be a lot harder and costly at a much more inconveinent time. |
I used a long 1.3mm angled hex wrench on mine. I tried wires but none of them small enough were stiff enough.
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Did yours have one or two holes? How far in were you able to insert the wrench? At what position did you have the key?
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Its position 1. And it was a while ago. If the collar doesn't unscrew CCW then you haven't hit the mark. Wiggle the key a little as your sticking it in, you'll feel it when your in the right spot.
The position 1, position 2 stuff is due to some people calling the off, key out position, position 1 instead of 0. |
in the meantime...
firemediceric-
I have the same problem with my 300SD - a 126 - but however un-wisely, I have chosen to ignore it for the time being. Now, I'm no mechanic, but I got the tumbler out. Take the black plastic cover off. Turn the key to number 2 and slide your paper clip in the hole. Turn the black collar ccw. If the collar is coming out but the tumbler isn't, you don't have the paper clip on the right spot. Keep messing with it. That was seriously the worst part. when the paper clip is right, the collar and tumbler should come out together. And there you go. In the meantime, you can do what I do if you don't want to use a screwdriver or buy a new tumbler (at best) or a new ignition lock (at worst). Before you turn your car off, just turn your wheel at least 60 degrees to the right or left, then turn it off and take your key out. If the steering wheel is turned, it won't automatically lock. I know the mechs will advise against this, but if you're willing to use a screwdriver, this is at least a nicer looking temporary solution. |
It has beaten me
I have the desire to fix this correctly, even though it has not become a true problem yet. My reasoning was that I would rather nip a potential problem in the bud, rather than have it turn into something more troublesome and more costly down the road.
After three days of exhaustive reading and a few hours of fruitless labor last night, I have spent the better part of today fiddling with various paper clips, wire of every imaginable guage, and allen wrenches. I have ground the ends down at an angle as instructed. I have wiggled the wire, attempted to use force, wiggled the key while inserting the wire and anything else I could think of, or has been suggested to me, to remove the cylinder. All I have succeeded in doing is scratching the black collar all to the devil with the angled needle nose pliers I purchased for this project and getting blisters on my two thumbs. I cannot get anything to give way. Right now, I am not a fan of German engineering. As I said earlier, the lock has only stuck on one occassion, but I wanted to take care of this now, an ounce of prevention... It has beaten me. I will go back to driving the car and when the day comes that it locks up I will then decide if I have renewed motivation to overcome the then bigger problem. Maybe my frustration and disappointment will be at the same point it is today and I will just opt to torch the car where it is. Just kidding...maybe.:mad: |
Are you turning the key? Start with key in off position and turn to on until the wire slips in the little hole.
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Try winmutt's suggestion. Perhaps your plunger is not getting in there far enough to release the detent. Once you have the tumbler out and in your hand, it all makes sense. When I fixed my buddies lock, he first handed me a very thin paper clip. Turns out it wasn't thick enough to push the detent all the way down. If worse comes to worse, call AAA and have a locksmith snatch it out. Or head to your local indy Mercedes mechanic. Since the lock still turns, it shouldn't cost too much to have them take it out for you. Good luck. Bill |
Ok, here's the lock face showing positions zero, one and two. Position one (the one nearest the top of this picture) is the one you want.
http://dieselgiant.com/ignition16.JPG Here's a very blurry picture of the paperclip inserted in the hole with the key in position one. http://dieselgiant.com/ignition19.JPG Here's a top view showing how far the paper clip needs to go before it pushes on the detent. http://dieselgiant.com/ignition21.JPG And here's a picture showing the actual detent. That tab facing you in the picure is in a channel in the lock housing. When the paper clip is inserted properly, the tab is pushed down, allowing the black ring to turn -- by hand. I needed no wrenches to turn it one I got the plunger to drop all the way down. http://dieselgiant.com/ignition25.JPG Hope this helps. Please report back with your progress. Bill edit: Thanks to dieselgiant for these pictures!! |
Bill,
Thank you for the pics. From what I can see, I'm doing everything correctly, which makes it even more frustrating. As you allude to, I really don't think I need the pliers to force the black ring to turn. I can wiggle the ring. I'm sure it's the tab doing it's job in not allowing me to turn it. I suspect that for whatever reason, the tab is just not being pushed down despite the force I am applying. I soaked the lock with lubricant, hoping that would help. I may mess around with it again tomorrow. If the key does bind up again (as I said earlier, it has only happened once) I will start calling locksmiths and mechanics to see what my options are. |
Happy Ending
This is a long post, but it explains the outcome and my errors, as well as names an indy that came to my rescue.
When leaving work this morning, the key stuck on me and would not turn. I had to make a stop on the way home and it stuck again, just a little. At this point I am paranoid about turning the car off and removing the key. I went to a local indy and asked how much he would charge to remove the cylinder for me. The shop owner came out and looked at the car, which was still running. He claimed that it's a 2 hour job and that without the new assembly in hand ready to install, I will not be able to move the car until the new parts are in. He told me to figure $500 and he could have the part here in about 3 weeks. I tried to explain to him everything that you all have been kind enough to share with me, but he told me it was all wrong. So off I went to another indy shop just down the road. This gentleman told me he charges one hour, as he needs to take the knee panel off to remove the plastic trim piece around the key cylinder. He claims that without accessing it from the back that the retention tabs will brake off. I informed him that they must have been broken by a previous owner, as I had followed advice from here and was told to pry the piece off with a screw driver. When I had done this days ago I had found someone had glued the piece back into place. I guess someone had removed it incorrectly in the past and broke the tabs, just as the indy said would happen. He had me remove the trim, which I pried off. He chuckled seeing the glue I had used to reattach the piece. He then showed me how to remove the cylinder. He did it in a matter of seconds, he took the time to show and explain things to me, and only charged me $20. I paid him double. He was fantastic to stop working on the Porsch he had on the lift and to take the time to attend to my problem and courteous enough to educate me. The shop is K&B Foreign Car Service in Vero Beach, FL. I went back to the first shop with my key cylinder in hand and let him know what I thought of him. Once he had the cylinder out my errors were obvious. I had been attempting to insert the wire with the key turned to the first dimple in the black collar. I made this mistake because of some posts calling postion "0" position "I" and position "I" position "II". My misunderstanding, despite the pics on Diesel Giant showing the correct position, was furthered do the fact that at position "I" I was able to insert the wire about an inch. The wire was going into a space on the cylinder between the portion that turns and the outer shell of the cylinder itself. This explains the post I made earlier about being able to turn the key a couple of degress in either direction even with the wire inserted. I had made attempts to insert the wire at the correct postion, but could never get it to go in more than 1/8". Once the cylinder was removed I saw that this was due to needing to angle the wire up ever so slightly to get it to go into the hole. Now I know. The education was not too expensive, although I did pull most of my hair out and blistered my thumbs. I will be ordering the new cylinder in the next couple of days, as I have to show up at the dealer, over an hour away, in person with my paperwork to do so. Not conveinent. |
so...
I'm assuming you have the tumbler out and are using a screwdriver? If so, you should try turning the key in tumbler with the tumbler in your hand. If it turns freely, it's most likely not the tumbler - or cylinder, as you may call it - that needs to be replaced. If it does stick, that's good. The new tumbler should be under $100 from the dealer.
If the key turns with no problem, you probably need a new ignition lock assembly, which is quite a bit more expensive and pretty difficult for a beginner - such as myself - to install. Here's a link to the thread I started when I had this same problem: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/161943-replacing-steering-lock.html |
JimZ,
Thanks for the info. I will try the key in the removed tumbler to see how well it works. By way of further elimination, if the problem is not the tumbler won't the problem persist while I use the screw driver in place of a key, or does the problem only manifest itself when a tumbler is in place and being used?:stupid: |
Thank you
JimZ,
I think you just saved me the cost of a new tumbler/cylinder as well as a lot more frustration. My key does seem to work fine with the the tumbler out of the car. I went out to the car, turned the wheel to engage the steering wheel lock and then tried the trusty screwdriver that serves as my temporary key. I had a hard time turning the screwdriver to start the car. The thought of the problem being more than the tumbler seemed daunting. I then remembered one of the many posts I had printed out. I will cut and paste it at the bottom of this. The poster related how he stuffed some paper in a gap at the back of the mechanisim to keep the dead bolt lock from actuating. He no longer has a locking steering wheel, but he did not need to replace anything and he overcame the problem. I have now stopped the locking mechanisim from engaging in the same manner as the original poster of this method. I will test this over the next couple of days. If it works trouble free, I will leave the obstruction in place to bypass the lock mechanisim and reinstall my current tumbler. Here's the post from 2002:http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/52559-190e-ignition-switch.html?highlight=i... Gil Registered Offender Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NH Posts: 202 JUST did this! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey, I feel for you! I just came outside from fixing my ignition switch. It locked up on me a few days ago outside of Blockbuster videos. Key would not turn, so I had it towed to a nearby shop, where they said the only option was to drill it out and replace the cylinder, and the expensive part that contains the steering wheel lock, etc. This job would run about $700 at the MB stealer, and the shop where I was wanted about $400(+/-) to do the job. Quickly, I jumped into a nearby phone booth and changed into the superhero known as Cheap Bastard, who slayed the bill with his miserly habits. Cheap Bastard requested that they drill out the lock, but go no further. After doing this, Cheap Bastard reasoned, the car could be started with a screwdriver until funds could be found to do the job correctly. I drove away for $95 bucks as Cheap Bastard waved and rode off into the sunset. Now, I could have stopped there, but instead I ordered a new cylinder and key for about $38, and a new black sleeve thingy (bezel?) that screws over the lock. I saved the original chrome trim ring. When I got home today, I found the parts on the doorstep and started the installation process, only to find that the real problem was (and likely is in your car) the dead bolt lock in the expensive part (I forget what it's called). It seems even with a new cylinder installed, the key wouldn't unlock the dead bolt and I had to take it out, moving the dead bolt away with a screw driver (it takes some practice, so be a little patient with yourself). To keep the dead bolt from causing me any more grief, I wadded up a little bit of paper and shoved it in the gap, holding the deadbolt latch permanently in the open position. I then installed the cylinder. Using a "paper clip in the pinhole" as described in other posts, I held down the little latch on the side of the cylinder while screwing down the black bezel thingy over the keyhole. So now i have a working key (it dsoesn't match, Cheap Bastard bought the universal one versus paying $95 for a custom ordered matching lock.) True, my steering wheel no longer locks, but since when has that ever been a theft deterrent in the first place? For about $150 (including the tow), a few hours of my time and some liberally applied foul language, I took care of this and you can too. :p Gil -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Last edited by Gil : 12-16-2002 at 06:26 PM. |
I love this place. Can you imagine owning one of these old Benz without it?
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I changed the ign assembly in whole on my euro. It was fairly easy. More so than getting the tumbler out the first time.
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no sweat...
Glad I could help!
There is one preventative step you may want to take. I'm not sure how long the balled up piece of paper will last, so just to be sure, do this: turn the steering wheel a little before you turn the car off and take your keys out. The lock may not work with the paper in there, but if the paper fails, the lock won't work with the steering wheel turned. This is what I do. And like I said before, MB mechanics advise against this, and I'm sure they would advise against the the balled up paper method. It is best to just fix it, because if it locks up for good, you've read enough by now to know it is VERY expensive to fix. Right now I have a list of more immediate problems to attend to, so for now I'll keep my fingers crossed and remember to turn the wheel before I turn the car off! |
As I run my test, I have a piece of hard plastic that I trimmed to fit stuffed into the hole to prevent the mechanism from functioning. We'll see how it works. I think it's a better choice than paper.
I want to fix, or have fixed, everything that's wrong on the car, and I want it done correctly. It seems that each day the list gets longer. Any money that I can save on this that will not affect the functioning or appearance of the car is money I can spend on another item needing attention. |
Time to move on to another repair
It's been a week and a half with the plastic keeping the steering lock from engaging. The original ignition cylinder has been back in place and functions flawlessly.
The help I received here along with a lot of serching and reading in the archieves saved me a lot of headache and money. Now that there is no more problem with the ignition it's time to move on to another repair. Thanks again |
Is there any way to remove the lock surround w/o a key? My '82 300SD does not have the surround, I want to know if there is a way to get one from a wrecked car in the junkyard.
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Know any car thiefs?
If there is a way to get it off without a key, I hope it's really hard to do! Otherwise, car thiefs would have a pretty easy time getting the car started up without a key. ;)
You can get a brand new one from Phil for $30. Pretty cheap, and you don't have to find one in a junkyard and try to get it out. :) |
Sorry, but there is no way that I know of. You need the key to rotate the cylinder to the proper postion to insert the paper clip and depress the pawl that will then allow the collar to spin off.
Wow, who would have thought that I would have enough MB knowledge to answer a question rather than always just be asking? Sorry it's not an answer that helps you:( |
Answer:
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Category All Parts Accessory Air Intake Body Electrical Body Mechanical & Trim Body Sheet Metal Brake Carburetion Climate Control Clutch Cooling System Diesel Injection Drive Belts Driveshaft & Axle Engine Electrical Engine Mechanical Exhaust Fuel Delivery Fuel Injection Steering Suspension Tools and Hardware Transmission Idler Arm Repair Kit Ignition Lock Cover Ignition Lock Cylinder Ignition Lock Escutcheon Ignition Lock Housing Ignition Switch P/S Filter P/S Fluid P/S Hose... P/S Pump... P/S Pump Repair Kit... P/S Reservoir Gasket P/S Seal... Steering Arm Steering Coupling Steering Cover Seal Steering Damper Steering Gear Seal Kit Steering Gearbox Tie Rod Assembly... Tie Rod End... PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES Vehicle 1981 Mercedes Benz 300SD Part: Ignition Lock Cover |
Wonder if he's actually looking for this?
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/M504474231OES.JPG If so, you certainly don't need a key to remove it. Called an escutcheon and Phil has them in stock. |
Man am I glad to have found this thread. I have been reading for hours. I read all the threads about the U shaped wire but can see only one hole in the wife's '89 560sel ignition switch. Figured I just needed a flashlight or something. I am at the jiggle to remove stage. I confess I knew better than to let it go this long. I am confidant I have one more turn of the key left. I jiggled for about 20 minutes this morning before work, asked the Mrs to jiggle every now and then. Sorry no pics. Gonna try the jigsaw vibration next. Very interesting about the column lock defeat. I think my situation will call for a new lock as the key is difficult to insert and remove.
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1 Attachment(s)
of the whole assembly area.
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http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/100_0825.jpg However, when I try it on the complete switch, I can't get the collar to turn. I can tell I have it in the right spot because the tool goes in just a little further than even 2 degrees of rotation either way. I also can't turn the key with it like this. http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/100_0824.jpg I also have an '81 300SD that the ignition switch is stuck just between the position that the key is inserted, and the first position (ign on). The car is drivable (steering unlocked) by jumping the starter. However, there is no brake lights or glow system. I know I need to at least get it in the no. 1 position to remove the tumbler, but I wanted to practice first with the parts I have to make sure I can do it when I get the switch in the car in the right place. I am at my wits end! I have viewed all the photos on Diesel Giant, but still can't get it to work.. HELP PLEASE!! |
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The pin diameter is critical to fully disengaging the locking button. Until the button fully retracts, there is no possibility of unscrewing the sleeve. . |
Rollguy,
These ignitions seem to sense panic. Relax.
Mr Whunter is right about the size of the tool being critical. It appears you have the right size to fit your experiment tumbler and perhaps it will work on the other one too. Take a strong flashlight and shine it into the hole on the face of the tumbler. Slowly turn the key in the area where the magic location is reported to be. If your eyes are good you will be able to see the right spot to insert the your pin release tool. Be patient when you get the tool inserted. Rotate the sleeve back and forth a little. Sometimes its difficult to get it started in the right direction. If this does not work for you try using something a little smaller than your allen wrench. I used the copper center of a standard cable TV wire. Luck! |
I can tell that I am pushing something in the hole, and it does feel similar to the cylinder without the collar. The collar is loose enough that I can feel the bar holding it, but it will not turn no matter how much I fiddle with it. I can put the tool in the cylinder and watch the bar go in flush, but it does not work with the lock with the collar. The bigger problem I have is the lock in the car is stuck to the left of the first position. I don't want to break the key off, but I still may have to lower the column and drill out the pin anyway.
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Look at this.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/110367-what-trick-remove-tumbler.html#post769549 . here are others to read before cutting. Steering Lock Repair on the 1983 300CD-T (W123) by dogguy 09/23/08 PeachPartsWiki: Steering Lock Repair Steering lock repair 1981 300SD Steering lock repair - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum W126-removing elect. portion of ignition switch 126-removing elect. portion of ignition switch - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum W123 ignition tumbler wiring 123 ignition tumbler wiring - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Ignition Switch problem 1981 300SD. Ignition Switch problem 1981 300 SD. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum W123 Diesel: Ignition Troubleshooting http://home.earthlink.net/~jamescstein/W123/ I am trying to R&R ignition switch 1990 350SDL I am trying to R&R ignition switch - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Steering wheel locked, ignition will not turn 1978 300SD Steering wheel locked, ignition will not turn - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum What is the trick to remove the tumbler? What is the trick to remove the tumbler? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum How Do I Drill Out Ignition? How Do I Drill Out Ignition? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Ignition Key Will Not Turn - Help Ignition Key Will Not Turn - Help - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum W126 91 300SE ignition tumbler removal W126 91 300SE ignition tumbler removal - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum W126 ignition lock troubles W126 ignition lock troubles - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Ignition tumber W126 Ignition tumber W126 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Gonna cut W123 ignition lock...key won't turn Gonna cut W123 ignition lock...key won't turn - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum 126 frozen steering lock/tumbler removal (fairly easy, but long) 126 frozen steering lock/tumbler removal (fairly easy, but long) - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum How not to remove the ignition lock! Butchery at its finest. How not to remove the ignition lock! Butchery at its finest. - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Ignition Cylinder, Switch, or Housing? Ignition Cylinder, Switch, or Housing? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum . |
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