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  #1  
Old 10-16-2006, 06:31 AM
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240D front-end squeaking noise

Hello folks,

I have a 1983 240D with 140k miles.
When I push the car down on the left front I hear a squeaking noise; even when
I am entering into the car to drive it I hear this! As soon as I sit on the driver's seat or when getting out from the car here comes the squeak.
When I push the front left side of the car up and down more forcefully I DO
NOT hear this noise! I have replaced the L and R Upper Control Arms, but this did not solve my problem. Any clues?...
***
More on this folks.
Also,I hear this squeaking/creacking noise when I go oven speed bumps around the neighborhood with 10mph and when I start moving forward from a stopping state or when breaking coming to a stop light.
I forgot also to mention that my right front side produces this noise also. Help !!!

Thank you in advance
John

Last edited by 240D83; 10-16-2006 at 10:13 AM.
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2006, 09:02 AM
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Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240D83 View Post
I have replaced the L and R Upper Control Arms, but this did not solve my problem. Any clues?...
I had the exact same symptoms. It turned out to be lower ball joints. The boot on the left side was completely gone, and the joint itself was filled with rust colored powder.
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'82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2006, 12:15 PM
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Lower Ball Joints ?!!!...

Bob thanks for your reply.

I wanted to ask you; did you do the job by yourself?
Do I have to take the springs out? My neighbor has a spring compressor tool, I think.
I suspect such a job is a big undertaking. I replaced the UCAs, but that was relatively simple, I think.
If you did the work on your own, could you please advice with steps that I have to follow?

Thank you again,
John
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2006, 01:48 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 17
squeaks?

I totally agree....lower balljoints. My 83 240 had same problem. Do you have any steering control issues. Does the steering whell have some play in it and no response. Also check out control arms and idler arm if you don't have control. All of these things seem to happen together
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2006, 06:06 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 34,229
if the boot is shot but the joint is not loose you can grease it up and change the boot and get a few more years of driving and save a good bit of change.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2006, 09:15 PM
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Thank you once more...

Folks,

Thank you very much for your time.
As soon as I came home this evening, I jacked up the front end and inspected things out.
The rubber at the top of the lower left ball joint is worn out but the metal underneath looks good (no rust or damage).
The right side is even better; the rubber covering the ball joint is just cracked horizontally.
There is a little play in my steering wheel, but I do not hear any clunking coming from the front end and the car drives smoothly. I put some ATF on both ball joints and the squeaking/creaking noise is gone!
I am not prepared to replace them right now and from your responces I guess, I will be able to drive the car to work until next spring; my office is only five miles away.
*** One more question for Tom
Tom could you please elaborate a bit on your statement
"if the boot is shot but the joint is not loose you can grease it up and change the boot and get..."?
What/where is the 'boot' on the ball joint?

Thank you once more,
John
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2006, 10:02 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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the boot is the rubber dust guard. to change it requires pulling the ball joint out and slipping a new one over. it isnt easy but you just put it all back together and no alignment is required or new ball joints. so you can save some real money. it isnt easy though. if you are on a tight budget just keep oiling it once a week til you can do the job.

although you might get some wear in the mean time and have to do the entire ball joint.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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