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#16
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Quote:
Two words of advice: *as mentioned, save spacer and use on the new half shaft. *do NOT over-tighten bolt in the end of the hub. It WILL break off....
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#17
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turing the axles might help. But a few problems:
cars is in neutral with both rears in the air, how do I safely keep the car up without it rolling forward or back? plus I only got one hydro jack and one oem steel jack with two jackstands by the time I figure it out I could have cut the cans in half and taken the axles out, but will the oil catch fire from the sparks? |
#18
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chock both front tires, infront, and behind. It shouldnt roll. then get the rear onto the jackstands and spin away!
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Paul 2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi |
#19
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Don't cut the axles open. The axle should slide back inside the differential all the way. You have the back of the differential off so try and look what is interfering with the axle going back in. When I did my axles, I had to reshim one side so I had to take the axle out a few times to get the shim thickness correct. It is a tight fit to get the axle past the swing arm but it is doable. I think I used a big screwdriver as a lever to help pry the axle past the swing arm.
Also, don't be too zealous with the hammer, you might break something. Number one rule in mechanics is to never force anything. I got my axles from CVR in Denver. They supply axles to racecars so I figured they have to know what they are doing. I have driven 20k + miles with the rebuilt axles and they are performing great. They have a 3 year warranty. Look in the FSM (factory service manual) because it is more detailed than the Hynes book. Do a search for the FSM, it is available to look at online.
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Doug 1987 300TD x 3 2005 E320CDI |
#20
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ok I'll try to get the back up on jackstands and spin.
I've tried pulling the diff side in and out and at multiple heights. I'll let you guys know how it goes later tonight |
#21
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to remove thaxel you actually need to increae the distance between the wheel arm and the diff case. Both need to be jacked. You shoud lower the wheel as much as possible and jack the differential as much as possible to give you the clearance to remove the axle. It is not a difficult job. Beware, the diff is much heavier than it looks.
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------------------------------------------ Aquilae non capunt muscas! (Eagles don't hunt flies!) 1979 300SD Black/Black MBtex239000mi 1983 300TD euro-NA. White/Olive Cloth-MBtex 201000mi. Fleet car of the USA embassy in Morocco 1983 240D Labrador Blue/Blue MBtex 161000mi |
#22
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diff was raised as high as possible and the shock disconnected at the top. If you don't begin to pull it out from the hub side first you are screwed.
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#23
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Hey lobu, when you have the differ. raised all the way up, can you move the axle out by the hub?
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#24
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yea, but I just need another 1/2 inch to pull it out all the way. but I can't because the other end won't go in all the way!! argg
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#25
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I assume you have the cover off of the differential housing? In a last ditch effort, maybe you can take off the axle on the other side the way it should be removed. Then push the differential and axle over to 1 side enough to get the stuck one out of the hub then out of the differential. I know it sounds like alot of extra work but what the heck. Your into it now.
Actually, I think if you just take the bolt out of the other hub that hold the axle in, you can move the differential the opposite way enough to pull the spline out of the good side hub. Just be careful as these parts are deceptively heavy. Last edited by Surf-n-Turf; 10-17-2006 at 04:12 PM. Reason: addition |
#26
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thats a good idea, I'm gonna try that
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#27
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Quote:
Support the differential with a hydraulic jack. Remove the two large cap screws that secure the differential mount to the differential. With the cap screws removed, you can jack the diff slightly higher without the body (and axle carrier) going up with it. |
#28
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got both axles off! Here are some serious hints that people doing this for the first time should adhere too:
First: Removing the old axles is not about jacking up the diff all the way up and lowering hub all the way down. - you need to make sure you DO have enough room, yet have the splines perfectly horizontal so that it is easy to pull the ends out Second: You should put the retaining clip in as soon as you replace the new/rebuilt axle. As soon as you put in the differential side in first, place the clip in. If you don't you'll be stuck, trying to lower and raise the diff and control arm to get that correct angle so that the splines are going in perfectly straight. Three: Before puting the diff cover back on after you are done. Raise both ends after securing the front end from moving. then place the car in neutral (ebrake off!) and spin the rear tires and observe the clips. Make sure they are not comming out and they are aligned properly. Thank you all for helping me. An easy job, but it was so easy it was hard. |
#29
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Awsome news. Glad to see you got it done. Did it seem as though the splines going into the differ. on the first side just got jammed up?
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#30
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Pretty much, and then the other side the new one was jammed! but after adjustments it came out so I could reinsert
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