|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
parts id and purpose help for a newbie????
there is a vacuum part on the dash behind the brake booster. It has a vac line to it and from it and an electrical connection. the electrical connection was unplugged. I cleaned the connector and pluged it back in with no perceptable difference
there are two relays under a black plastic cover on the drivers side inner fender. I unplugged these and the one closest to the firewall was severely corroded. I plugged and unplugged it several times and it is now clean too. what do these do and is it better to leave the vacuum part unconnected electrically? pics below Last edited by lutzTD; 11-23-2011 at 08:37 PM. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
What vehicle..turbo... non turbo...240 or 300.....from the pictures I guess a 1982/3 300D ?
.
__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ] "A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money." |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
By looking at the photo, you can determine right off the bat that it's a 300D turbodiesel. That part on the firewall is the overboost protection valve. It prevents the turbo from overboosting in rare situations and destroying the engine. Keep it connected.
__________________
'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later! -German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
thanx, good to know. I ran it pretty hard from atlanta to tampa this weekend with this disconnected. sorry about the lack of description. the car is a 84 300D turbo |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
anybody know what the relays are for..... they look like they are for the cruise actuator. I am currently trouble shootin gthe cruise so if these are indeed cruise releated I would like to remove them from the list of possible defective parts.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Those look like the relay for the ac clutch and the aux. fan. Wheres the cover for that? They look like pretty corroded.
__________________
'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I would check the overboost protection valve. Mine was plugged solid, so I never had any boost. Make sure the hose connections on the bottom & front are clear through with no power at the relay. Providing power opens both to the top port that should have a dust cap on it, but allows vacuum to escape.
Paul.
__________________
1984 300CD red/blk 290,000 partial resto 1980 240D 4 sp Brn/palomino gone 1997 Mazda Miata STO edition wife's baby 1988 Lincoln Mark VII LSC next resto 1986 Subaru GL wagon daily 1993 Isuzu pickup field beater 2008 Honda Civic EX-L 5sp wife's new car 1978 Honda XL350 1974 Honda XL70 my Calif. ride in HS |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Get the factory service manual (FSM) on disc from MB for $19.99 plus shipping. My total was around $27. With the FSM, some mechanical aptitude and this forum, you can fix or rebuild most everything on these cars. Use the search function for how to do many jobs including the cruise. I looked for Boost N Benz's DYI site but it is not working. That is a shame because there are many good DYI jobs on that site. Here is a thread regarding soldering the Cruise Amp. Non working Cruise Control
__________________
Doug 1987 300TD x 3 2005 E320CDI Last edited by riethoven; 10-18-2006 at 10:17 AM. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
yeh I have been through all of these threads. Unfortunately limited time right now has made me focus on yanking parts I can play with at work. I already soldered the amp with no change. I will have to wait to go through the entire troubleshhot for a few weekends until I get my honeydo list to a manageable point
__________________
1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I pulled the cover for the picture. The contacts were green. Is there a good way to clean and enhance these connections. loke a grease or something I can add to prevent oxidation in the future? Is there a source for a tiny brush to clean the contacts, kinda like a small battery post cleaner? Thanx
__________________
1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I think ratshack sells them now. Be sure to have a tube of "di-electric greese" handy, and apply it after the contacts are clean to prevent future problems.
__________________
-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|