It is time to do it. This will be my winter project. I've done alot of reading and I think I am ready.
Where do I find most of the components? I've looked online a few places and I have yet to visit my propane store. Where else? Is there a single source for all this stuff?

What are you guys running and where did you find them?

thanks

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

I'd rather just turn up the full load adjustment. Same effect....

I'm running this system. It's helped me to get my 0-60 times in the seven second range, without any customized adjustments, so far.

Does anyone have anything with more specific stuff? Zeits system is nice. So that is a kit that you bought? Where is the best place to get the components if I source them individually?

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

I picked mine up used off of ebay for less than half price. I bet an oxy/ace regulator can be had for cheap, but I do like the gizmo that ties flow rate to boost pressure. Not sure where this can be found separately.

Since I'm going to be doing some towing this summer I've been thinking about a non-adjustable "dump" system tied via a solenoid to the WOT switch. It would dump LPG vapor into the airstream just before the turbo which would do a fairly thorough job of mixing it.
Since I'd only be using LPG while dumping max fuel and under boost (for the most part) I'd be able to make it far les complex.
Take a look at this page:
http://www.mrsharkey.com/lpg.htm

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1978 Ford F-150 351M
2002 Kia Spectra 1.8l 5-sp
1985 Volkswagen Scirocco 8V 1.8l 5sp
1985 MB 300D Turbo California

"Die Natur verabscheut Vakuum"

If you're installing the unit on a turbo engine, rather than using the WOT switch, just install a Hobbes adjustable boost activated switch. It's nice to have the extra power even when you're not accelerating at WOT. I haven't checked in with Mr Sharkey in a while, but I think he recommends the same approach.

Most definitely tie the flow rate to boost pressure, otherwise you'll be getting pre-ignition at times and not enough boost at other times.

I would consult with Hank Hill, over at Strickland Propane. He's very knowledegeable and helpful answering questions about propane and propane accessories.

If Hanks not available, I would checkout this:
http://sirnik.batcave.net/propane.jpg

and thank member SirNik84 for that link.

or here:
In no particular order

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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforu...ht=propane+veg
http://www.propane-generators.com/propane_injection.htm

http://www.eng-tips.com/faqs.cfm?fid=1147

http://www.mrsharkey.com/lpg.htm

http://www.thedieselstop.com/content...ropane%20Setup

http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:...&ct=clnk&cd=29

http://www.wps.com/LPG/index.html#INDEX


Thank member pmari for those links,,, good luck

Now THAT is an interesting read. He sort of dances around the point, but I think what he is saying is that the propane doesn't necessarily cause the engine to be more efficient. It seems that the bottom line is that once the diesel has combusted there is some residual oxygen left in the combustion chamber that is used by the propane. First the diesel fires, then the propane. He doesn't seem to address the theory that the different dynamics of the propane wavefront causes a more complete burn.
Sharky believes that the propane causes the fuel clinging to the piston walls to combust. Actually, now that I think about it why would diesel cling to the piston walls anyway? I thought it was all consumed in the swirl chamber?
It seems that there are benefits to be had since there is "room" for more fuel, but why not just turn up the fuel instead as Forced Induction says?
Is there a difference between the effects on an IDI vs a DI? There might be, since now there is fuel in the area below the prechamber where there wouldn't have been before. Hmm.....

__________________
1978 Ford F-150 351M
2002 Kia Spectra 1.8l 5-sp
1985 Volkswagen Scirocco 8V 1.8l 5sp
1985 MB 300D Turbo California

"Die Natur verabscheut Vakuum"

I don't understand at all why you'd want this except when the pump is already at full delivery.

If you need extra power when the pedal isn't all the way to the floor, simply push the pedal a bit further.

I wonder if the propane burns slower causing expansion for the whole piston stroke rather than just the first few degrees of crank rotation.

I'm trying to source out my parts individually. The Hobbs switch is no big deal as is the regulator and gauges. I am having a little difficulty locating the solenoid fuel lock.

Any ideas?

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

That wastes fuel (and diesel/biodiesel is more expensive than propane). If you can get the same rate of acceleration at .5 throttle as you can get at .75, then you're clearly more efficient...and, it feels pretty good too.

At the original setting (onset at 7-8psi) I got a 0-60mph reading of 7.98sec. At my latest setting (4-5psi) I just ran a 7.30sec 0-60mph. That's pretty darn nifty, in my book.

Actually, that how i see propane:
It is the simplest, cheapest way to get the fuel injection way beyond what the injection pump can do, or ever will (even after the Myna treatment). Properly done and coupled to and IC and turbo mod done right it could take the 617 to 150hp/300lbft...

Now the unknown is how massive propane injection effect EGT... and really if it is economical fuelwise (how do you calculate gallon equivalent for propane?)

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Aquilae non capunt muscas! (Eagles don't hunt flies!)


1979 300SD Black/Black MBtex239000mi
1983 300TD euro-NA. White/Olive Cloth-MBtex 201000mi. Fleet car of the USA embassy in Morocco
1983 240D Labrador Blue/Blue MBtex 161000mi

I just drove 2.5 hours down I-5 for a conference, and even on steep grades, my EGTs didn't increase appreciably, despite the added fueling/power. I think a pyrometer and IC are probably a necessity for this mod to function properly and reliably. I really notice the power loss when the gas is turned off.