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  #1  
Old 10-21-2006, 03:36 PM
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Drag Link Question

Car's an 83 300D W123
I went for inspection and flunked because there's play at one of the draglink ends. I was thinking of letting them fix it. Now, they tell me the car will need an alignment after this is replaced, I don't think it will. Isn't the draglink a fixed length? How difficult is getting this off? I think if it doesn't need alignment, I may as well fix it myself since the part is only about 50 bucks. The tie-rods look and feel fine (have two of them too if needed). I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the drag link, straight bar, two ends like tie-rod ends, both face up right? As far as the existing alignment, the car never pulls and wears it's tires evenly. Only after having them show me the play did I realize that yeah, there is some slop in the steering. The inspection was good, I just don't want to fork out 70 for an alignment it probably does not need.

Thanks all.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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Old 10-22-2006, 11:06 AM
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Hmmmm
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Old 10-22-2006, 11:34 AM
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If you have a tie rod puller, a drag link is no big deal. You will have to remove the steering damper as well, which is also no big deal.

How are the idler arm bushings? Worn ones will also give you play in the steering. I'd check that situation as well while I'm under the car. One thing you can do is jack up the right wheel and try to turn it while the left wheel is firmly on the ground. Observe the steering linkage for play.

If it's just the drag link that's worn, I'd replace it and drive, just watching closely for uneven tire wear. As you say, it's a fixed bar with a ball joint at either end. How much can it be off with a new link?

BTW, I've had bad luck with premature wear using TRW steering links. YMMV.
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:40 PM
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Thanks Maki,

Did the idler arm bush a year or so ago. The play can definitly be seen at the drag link. I'll put in a new steering damper just for the hell of it anyway. Looks easy to replace and I'll do like you said and just keep an eye on the tires. I plan to use Meyle parts.
Thanks again.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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Old 10-22-2006, 09:08 PM
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Just changed my link 2 weeks ago. Super easy. I used a seperator fork and a sledge hammer. A few hits, the olds popped out. New one slides right in. 20 minutes maybe. Might as well do the damper, too, if its been a while. And no, you shouldnt need to get it aligned.
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Old 10-22-2006, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallknight View Post
Just changed my link 2 weeks ago. Super easy. I used a seperator fork and a sledge hammer. A few hits, the olds popped out. New one slides right in. 20 minutes maybe. Might as well do the damper, too, if its been a while. And no, you shouldnt need to get it aligned.
My exact plan and hoping for about as much time as it's starting to get cold and I'll need to work at night outside. Big light though so I should be OK. Is there a torque setting for the ends or is "damn-friggen-tight" a good enough approximation.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
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  #7  
Old 10-23-2006, 09:54 AM
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the haynes manual had the torque setting. I think it was 40/26, but I'm not sure. Let me know if you dont have the manual; mine is out in the cold.
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