Last night driving to work, all my warning lights came on, first the brake pad warning, than the emergency brake warning, than the battery warning, and finally reserve fuel warning and at the time I had my fuel gauge reading at more than 3/4 full, which makes the only sense as I filled up and had driven just 130 miles on a full tank, and when I checked my brake pads a week ago they had more than half of the shoes left, and the emergency brake was deffinetely not on while doing 65 on the highway.

So I started with the basic voltmeter tests today, when the car is "off" placing the voltmeter at the battery posts I get a reading of 12.24 volts, when the engine is revving at 2000 RPM I get a reading around 13.5 volts, and when every device (defroster, rear defroster, radio, high beams) is on I get a reading of 11.9 volts at idle... which tells me my alternator and voltage regulator are working fine, and the battery which is brand new is working as it is supposed to.

Before all this my tach wasn't working so while dealing with all this I decided to take care of that too, THANKS to hubmachine http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/hubmachine.html

replacing the 10 amp fuse on top of the tach relay solved this problem.

After that somewhere in this forum I read a faulty ground circuit might be the culprit, so I removed the -negative terminal, and then the ground cable, wire brushed the connections, then sprayed with electric parts cleaner, when I test the connection between 2 ends of the black cable I have close to 0 resistance, when I try between the body of the car and the - terminal of the cable it is still the same, so I can rule out a faulty ground connection. Then pretty much did the same thing to my fuse box, remove every fuse, clean the terminals, spray terminals and fuses with electric parts cleaner and replaced several fuses that looked old or still dirty with new ones.

Then I connect the battery back, turn the car on, go through the process of doing the voltmeter tests where every reading is the exact same. Only difference this time, the tach works (again thanks to hubmachine). PROBLEM IS, now my braided lines (the fuel return lines ???) are soaked wet, and the car keeps dripping diesel from where the braided lines connect with the injectors even half an hour after I disconnected the battery when I discovered the leak.

I am pretty anal about checking under the car before I start it, so I know there was no leak before I fixed this tach problem. There were no fluids on the ground before the start (the car had been sitting outside for couple hours), no fluids before I drove home from work with all the warning lights on.

Any leads on what is causing this leak ?

Thanks for your time

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'85 300 D Diamond in the rust

first off the braided lines fail often, they get a pretty good amount of heat and vibration, and they are not very substantial lines to begin with.
I think they really need to be changed every two years of something.
get a good meter of line and replace it and that should take care of the leak at least.
John

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

If you want viton injector return lines I have them in stock and I am here this week so I can ship immediately. (Blatent plug!)

http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page11.html

-Jim

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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

The leak has no connection with what you did or checked. Just bad timing! Please use only MB hoses, the light brown ones or maybe the Viton mentioned above. I have no first hand knowledge of the Viton's. Put the replaced end cap plug in the glove box as a spare. Are the false warning lights fixed? and if so, what was it?

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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE.

The warning lights are still there too If the weather gives me a break I will be looking deeper into that after I fix the leaky lines... The right side of the lights work as they should, glow plug, seat belt warning, left side, all three but the the high beam are constantly on so I am guessing it is a ground problem with the left side wiring

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'85 300 D Diamond in the rust

Why are MB lines so special to use? I stopped at the local FLAPS when mine got to leaking and bought about 5' of 1/8 fuel line. It's not on a pressurized side of the fuel system so doesnt need to be injection system rated, and it's been working great for me, even had a perfect sized piece left to toss in the trunk fixit kit for an emergency.