got it this time - egr bypass 606 turbo - Page 12 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

trapeze · #**166** 12-10-2009, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mundoracer

lol. well hopefully that explains what happened to me. I'll try again tomorrow. thanks.

OK, so I have now corrected and updated the schematic in my post #155 above. Sorry to cause you extra work…

mundoracer · #**167** 12-10-2009, 01:38 PM

No worries. Thanks for the help.

mundoracer · #**168** 12-11-2009, 12:37 AM

The CEL cleared today and I went ahead and gave the two component version another shot...it worked great! Very happy. Thanks to all who made this possible.
I used isolated female and male spade connectors and made a "plug in" module so I could remove the mod at any time and revert back to stock if necessary (not that i ever plan to). I shrink wrapped over the resistor and diode; they don't get too hot...do they?

burki0815 · #**169** 12-11-2009, 08:52 AM

Hi,
over last years I triet several times to manage this EGR-thing without success (capping vacuum lines, metal plugs inside EGR-valve, metal plugs with small and big holes) and now you found a 50cent solution without demounting the inlet mainfold/EGRvalve –congratiulations, great work- I'll try it next days.
One question, only to do it the right way, there are 3 vacuum tubes on the transducer and I don’t know if there is a electric feeback to the ECU, so which one need to be capped ? Or no matter about ?
1- tube from vacuum-reservoir to transducer
2- tube from transducer to EGR-valve
3- tube from transducer to outlet-filter (ok, I know this makes for sure no sense to cap)
Thanks
Burki

trapeze · #**170** 12-11-2009, 10:20 AM

Thank you to Mdisav for the initial solution and inspiration. Thank you to Evan (KarteK) for taking the inspiration to the refined solution. Thank you to Scott C for posting the comments (post#119) that made it so clear to me that this is really a supper easy solution, despite the long thread!

trapeze · #**171** 12-11-2009, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burki0815

Hi,
over last years I triet several times to manage this EGR-thing without success (capping vacuum lines, metal plugs inside EGR-valve, metal plugs with small and big holes) and now you found a 50cent solution without demounting the inlet mainfold/EGRvalve –congratiulations, great work- I'll try it next days.
One question, only to do it the right way, there are 3 vacuum tubes on the transducer and I don’t know if there is a electric feeback to the ECU, so which one need to be capped ? Or no matter about ?
1- tube from vacuum-reservoir to transducer
2- tube from transducer to EGR-valve
3- tube from transducer to outlet-filter (ok, I know this makes for sure no sense to cap)
Thanks
Burki

I have tried both the "three part" and the "two part" solution the fine folks here came up with. Both worked fine for me.

In the three part version, I ran it for a bit without touching the vacuum tubes on the egr transducer and it worked fine, then I capped the tube from the vacuum to the transducer, (just to be sure it was not actuating the egr valve) this made no change, it still worked fine. In the three part version, the signal to and from the transducer is disconnected (cut) so it will not work, the vacuum can stay connected.

The two part version requires that the electrical on the egr transducer be connected and stay in line, so for sure the tube from the vacuum reservoir to the transducer must be capped so the transducer will not open the egr valve. From that point, no vacuum will be present at the transducer, so no need for additional capping.

In the end, this is an easy upgrade.

burki0815 · #**172** 12-14-2009, 09:05 AM

W-O-R-K-S !!!!
Amazing to see how easy to fix this ‘problem’.

Many thanks to all !
Regards
Burki

trapeze · #**173** 12-14-2009, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burki0815

W-O-R-K-S !!!!
Amazing to see how easy to fix this ‘problem’.

Many thanks to all !
Regards
Burki

Glad it’s working for you. Did you use the three part or two part version???

burki0815 · #**174** 12-15-2009, 02:56 PM

I used the two part version.
Because it was cheaper

No, stop kidding, parts are 5cent/each at local dealer, so don't care about.
May one hint for others: There are many, many cables to ECU, badly some showing the same colours we are looking for like yellow/white. Don't tap the first you see, check first if you got the right one, either by detecting the pin (was impossible for me, to many cables) or by piercing a small nedlee into the cables you found, unplug the transducer and MAF connectors and use a multimeter/circuit analyzer to see if there is a signal from connector to needle. If not, it's the wrong and you need to search again.

mundoracer · #**175** 12-15-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burki0815

I used the two part version.
Because it was cheaper

No, stop kidding, parts are 5cent/each at local dealer, so don't care about.
May one hint for others: There are many, many cables to ECU, badly some showing the same colours we are looking for like yellow/white. Don't tap the first you see, check first if you got the right one, either by detecting the pin (was impossible for me, to many cables) or by piercing a small nedlee into the cables you found, unplug the transducer and MAF connectors and use a multimeter/circuit analyzer to see if there is a signal from connector to needle. If not, it's the wrong and you need to search again.

I agree, there are lots of wires and many look similar or the same. If you unplug the harness from the computer using the quick disconnect you can unscrew the one retaining screw on the plastic harness cover and pull it back which allows you to see all the wires much easier.

Olivier · #**176** 12-17-2009, 01:10 PM

Today I decided to play with the MAF, just to see.
I put it the other way around and nothing happen. Same as before? I thought it might be broken.
I unplugged it. No boost. This mean the MAF is sendind info to the car.
I plugged it out from the air intake still connected and put it aside. Nothing happen. The usual boost.
This is new but I was glad, Evan's EGR removal turn the MAF inactive but still need to be plugged in.
This might be related to this thread too about removing the MAF
MAF elimination project W210 606 turbo

But I like to say that the MAF is actually totally inactive as same in or out the intake. Just need to be plugged in. Is that any help or news?
Or all new about it already?
Cheers.
Olivier

KarTek · #**177** 12-17-2009, 02:36 PM

O,

Did you start the car with the MAF out of the way or did you pull it while the engine was running?

I tried moving the MAF with the engine off and then starting it and it set a code.

Olivier · #**178** 12-17-2009, 02:54 PM

OH. I need to remember now...
First I turn it around engine off.
Second unplugged it running.
Third if I remember properly the engine was off. Then start again.
Do you want me to try again tomorrow to be sure?
Actually, going to start the car now the maf away from the intake.

Olivier · #**179** 12-17-2009, 03:03 PM

Hi Evans,
Took it out before starting the engine. Nothing.no codes,no lack of boost. Running normaly.

mdisav · #**180** 12-17-2009, 05:54 PM

I believe you will get a code at some point. That is why I created the circuit and MAP input. I will give all the details step by step soon.

Keep us posted.