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  #166  
Old 12-10-2009, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mundoracer View Post
lol. well hopefully that explains what happened to me. I'll try again tomorrow. thanks.
OK, so I have now corrected and updated the schematic in my post #155 above. Sorry to cause you extra work…
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1999 E300 DT 178k
1960 Ford Thunderbird Convertible 82k
2000 BMW R1200 CE 12k
2000 Nissan Xterra SE 145k
1994 Go Ped 1,000,000 miles
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  #167  
Old 12-10-2009, 01:38 PM
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No worries. Thanks for the help.
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  #168  
Old 12-11-2009, 12:37 AM
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The CEL cleared today and I went ahead and gave the two component version another shot...it worked great! Very happy. Thanks to all who made this possible.
I used isolated female and male spade connectors and made a "plug in" module so I could remove the mod at any time and revert back to stock if necessary (not that i ever plan to). I shrink wrapped over the resistor and diode; they don't get too hot...do they?
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  #169  
Old 12-11-2009, 08:52 AM
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Thumbs up

Hi,
over last years I triet several times to manage this EGR-thing without success (capping vacuum lines, metal plugs inside EGR-valve, metal plugs with small and big holes) and now you found a 50cent solution without demounting the inlet mainfold/EGRvalve –congratiulations, great work- I'll try it next days.
One question, only to do it the right way, there are 3 vacuum tubes on the transducer and I don’t know if there is a electric feeback to the ECU, so which one need to be capped ? Or no matter about ?
1- tube from vacuum-reservoir to transducer
2- tube from transducer to EGR-valve
3- tube from transducer to outlet-filter (ok, I know this makes for sure no sense to cap)
Thanks
Burki
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  #170  
Old 12-11-2009, 10:20 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Clermont Florida
Posts: 35
Thank you!!!

Thank you to Mdisav for the initial solution and inspiration. Thank you to Evan (KarteK) for taking the inspiration to the refined solution. Thank you to Scott C for posting the comments (post#119) that made it so clear to me that this is really a supper easy solution, despite the long thread!
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1999 E300 DT 178k
1960 Ford Thunderbird Convertible 82k
2000 BMW R1200 CE 12k
2000 Nissan Xterra SE 145k
1994 Go Ped 1,000,000 miles
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  #171  
Old 12-11-2009, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burki0815 View Post
Hi,
over last years I triet several times to manage this EGR-thing without success (capping vacuum lines, metal plugs inside EGR-valve, metal plugs with small and big holes) and now you found a 50cent solution without demounting the inlet mainfold/EGRvalve –congratiulations, great work- I'll try it next days.
One question, only to do it the right way, there are 3 vacuum tubes on the transducer and I don’t know if there is a electric feeback to the ECU, so which one need to be capped ? Or no matter about ?
1- tube from vacuum-reservoir to transducer
2- tube from transducer to EGR-valve
3- tube from transducer to outlet-filter (ok, I know this makes for sure no sense to cap)
Thanks
Burki

I have tried both the "three part" and the "two part" solution the fine folks here came up with. Both worked fine for me.

In the three part version, I ran it for a bit without touching the vacuum tubes on the egr transducer and it worked fine, then I capped the tube from the vacuum to the transducer, (just to be sure it was not actuating the egr valve) this made no change, it still worked fine. In the three part version, the signal to and from the transducer is disconnected (cut) so it will not work, the vacuum can stay connected.

The two part version requires that the electrical on the egr transducer be connected and stay in line, so for sure the tube from the vacuum reservoir to the transducer must be capped so the transducer will not open the egr valve. From that point, no vacuum will be present at the transducer, so no need for additional capping.

In the end, this is an easy upgrade.
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1999 E300 DT 178k
1960 Ford Thunderbird Convertible 82k
2000 BMW R1200 CE 12k
2000 Nissan Xterra SE 145k
1994 Go Ped 1,000,000 miles
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  #172  
Old 12-14-2009, 09:05 AM
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Thumbs up It works

W-O-R-K-S !!!!
Amazing to see how easy to fix this ‘problem’.
Many thanks to all !
Regards
Burki
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  #173  
Old 12-14-2009, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burki0815 View Post
W-O-R-K-S !!!!
Amazing to see how easy to fix this ‘problem’.
Many thanks to all !
Regards
Burki
Glad it’s working for you. Did you use the three part or two part version???
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1999 E300 DT 178k
1960 Ford Thunderbird Convertible 82k
2000 BMW R1200 CE 12k
2000 Nissan Xterra SE 145k
1994 Go Ped 1,000,000 miles
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  #174  
Old 12-15-2009, 02:56 PM
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Talking

I used the two part version.
Because it was cheaper
No, stop kidding, parts are 5cent/each at local dealer, so don't care about.
May one hint for others: There are many, many cables to ECU, badly some showing the same colours we are looking for like yellow/white. Don't tap the first you see, check first if you got the right one, either by detecting the pin (was impossible for me, to many cables) or by piercing a small nedlee into the cables you found, unplug the transducer and MAF connectors and use a multimeter/circuit analyzer to see if there is a signal from connector to needle. If not, it's the wrong and you need to search again.
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  #175  
Old 12-15-2009, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burki0815 View Post
I used the two part version.
Because it was cheaper
No, stop kidding, parts are 5cent/each at local dealer, so don't care about.
May one hint for others: There are many, many cables to ECU, badly some showing the same colours we are looking for like yellow/white. Don't tap the first you see, check first if you got the right one, either by detecting the pin (was impossible for me, to many cables) or by piercing a small nedlee into the cables you found, unplug the transducer and MAF connectors and use a multimeter/circuit analyzer to see if there is a signal from connector to needle. If not, it's the wrong and you need to search again.
I agree, there are lots of wires and many look similar or the same. If you unplug the harness from the computer using the quick disconnect you can unscrew the one retaining screw on the plastic harness cover and pull it back which allows you to see all the wires much easier.
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  #176  
Old 12-17-2009, 01:10 PM
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Today I decided to play with the MAF, just to see.
I put it the other way around and nothing happen. Same as before? I thought it might be broken.
I unplugged it. No boost. This mean the MAF is sendind info to the car.
I plugged it out from the air intake still connected and put it aside. Nothing happen. The usual boost.
This is new but I was glad, Evan's EGR removal turn the MAF inactive but still need to be plugged in.
This might be related to this thread too about removing the MAF
MAF elimination project W210 606 turbo

But I like to say that the MAF is actually totally inactive as same in or out the intake. Just need to be plugged in. Is that any help or news?
Or all new about it already?
Cheers.
Olivier
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E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #177  
Old 12-17-2009, 02:36 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bahama/Eno Twp, NC
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O,

Did you start the car with the MAF out of the way or did you pull it while the engine was running?

I tried moving the MAF with the engine off and then starting it and it set a code.
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  #178  
Old 12-17-2009, 02:54 PM
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OH. I need to remember now...
First I turn it around engine off.
Second unplugged it running.
Third if I remember properly the engine was off. Then start again.
Do you want me to try again tomorrow to be sure?
Actually, going to start the car now the maf away from the intake.
__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #179  
Old 12-17-2009, 03:03 PM
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Posts: 569
Hi Evans,
Took it out before starting the engine. Nothing.no codes,no lack of boost. Running normaly.
__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...
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  #180  
Old 12-17-2009, 05:54 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Annapolis, Md.
Posts: 556
I believe you will get a code at some point. That is why I created the circuit and MAP input. I will give all the details step by step soon.

Keep us posted.
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99 E300 TURBODIESEL Astral Silver 282K - AMG brakes, suspension, monoblocks, speedo & interior - Full Load Maxed on IP by custom Speed Tuning USA Chip - T3/T4 Garrett - EGR/MAF delete
98 E300 TURBODIESEL Alexandrite Green on black leather 289K
95 E300 DIESEL Green Queen 267K SOLD
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87 300D 299K #22 head - intercooler - full load adj. - 8sec 0-60mph - SOLD
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