|
|
|
|
|
#1
10-25-2006, 11:56 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Easley Easley Easley come out come out wherever you are
Can someone please tell me the Ricard Easley method of IP timing? Ive been searching through the past discussions and found this site (http://buisness.baylor.edu/html/easley/autofaqs/iptiming.htm) but it wont let me see it. Maybe its my computer?
85 300d 319k getting there 85 300td 149k daily driver 83 300d 187k not counting 84 300d great runner using for parts 93 Mitsubishi Fuso FE all of the above running on methly soyate 1965 r60/2 conversion 1953 Horex 250 Regina 
|
|
#2
10-26-2006, 12:23 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Unfortunately, that site is no longer in existence. It's not your computer.
|
|
#3
10-26-2006, 12:30 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Bummer. Anyone out there know it by heart?
|
|
#4
10-26-2006, 12:37 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Set engine on compression stroke of #1 cylinder (both valves closed or closing, both lobes pointing up) at 24 BTDC. Look at the front of the IP. There is a mark at the upper left corner, a "missing" spline on the coupler splines, and a mark on the shaft. Line these up and install so that be bolts are in the middle of the cutouts on the mount. This should get you very close. Leave the nuts loose so you can move the pump back and forth. Make sure there is a coupling sleeve between the intermediate shaft and the IP, too, else it won't turn. Next, either obtain a drip tube or make one from plastic hose of some sort -- it only needs to push over the injection line fitting and seal with the free end bent over so you can see fuel drip off. Remove the #1 (front) pressure valve holder and carefully remove the spring and little steel valve from inside and screw the pressure valve holder back on. Wire the pump linkage at wide open throttle. Pump the hand pump to fill the IP with fuel. If it's set right, only a slow drop by drop flow will come out of the drip tube. You may need to crack the bleed screw on the top of the pump next to the oil filler cap to bleed the air out. Tighten it when no more air comes out, only fuel. Check that you are still at 24 BTDC on the crank, compression stroke of #1, then while still pumping, rotate the pump slowly away from the block until the fuel flows freely out the drip tube. Slowly rotate it back toward the block until the fuel flow abruptly slows down. It's obvious, but you can do it several times if you want. Just make sure the paper gasket for the IP doesn't tear or you get an intractable oil leak. When satisfied that you have the pump set to just stop the flow (you still get a drip a second or so), tighten the mounting bolts, re-installl the pressure valve and spring, and the injection lines. Tighten the pressure valve holder to 25 ft/lbs three times, or it won't seal properly. Leave the lines loose at the injectors, then crank the engine until no more air comes out the loose lines. Tighten injectors, run the glow plugs, and start it. May take a while, but it will start. I'd personally check the chain stretch first, as a worn chain will have to be replaced and you would then need to rest th injection timing again. Just as easy to do it first. Peter ________________
|
|
#5
10-26-2006, 10:21 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks. I'll give it a try tomorrow if it stops raining. The cam timing was off and I corrected it with an offset key. Made a difference but its not right yet,could be compression. I'm waiting for a tester to arrive.
|
|
#6
10-26-2006, 10:25 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
How off was your timing that you installed an offset key?
__________________
Seth 1984 300D 225K 1985 300D Donor body 1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!! 1980 300SD 311K My New Baby. 1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo
|
|
#7
10-26-2006, 10:56 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
When I checked it with a dial caliper the first time it was eight degrees. After installing the correct key (twice, I had it backwards the first time) I checked it again and I'm still off one degree.
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
