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#1
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Removal of bulb remnants???
(I've searched the archives and haven't found an answer!)
Whats the best (easiest) way to remove the remaining filament and such from the small sockets that are in the climate control unit on my w123 ? Yeah...two of them BROKE as I tried to pull, twist, wiggle, persuade, blah blah blah!!! Thanks for any "pointers"
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Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#2
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Epoxy putty on a stick?
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#3
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Super small computer tech tweezers would probably work. Speaking of those climate bulbs....I only have one left before I can't see my CCU at all anymore....maybe I should get to replacing them too. Slowly its been getting darker and darker on that part of the dash.....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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On small bulbs I've always slipped a piece of vacuum hose over the bulb then pulled them out. tweezers should work to pull out the remnants. They simply pull straight out but over the years heat distorts the light socket and the bulb binds in the socket.
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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE. |
#5
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Tweezers
I did this just yesterday. I tried various rubber hoses, but could not find one small enough on the outside diameter. I used a small pair of tweezers that I found in the house. The tweezers were a tight fit, so I used a small screwdriver to hold the replaced bulb in position. I found that one of my bulbs was not burnt out, and that it is the socket that is not working! (I tried 3 known good bulbs before I realised this) With the tweezers I was able to change each bulb in less than 30 seconds.
Hope that helps. |
#6
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Thanks guys for your replies! I actually went ahead last evening (yeah - before all of you offered your helpful insights!) and tackled the task of pulling out bulb pieces with a pair of needle-nose pliers, putting in new bulbs and reinstalling my CC unit. The pliers worked well as I was really only pulling out the bulb base and filament wires that were stuck in the sockets. New lights are nice, I can actually see teh buttons and temp wheel at night!
This started out as an "exploratory project" to see if the CC unit circuit board needed soldering. There were some dark/overheated areas on the board so I heated it and applied some fresh solder. The unit seems to be responding to turning the temperature dial whereas it hadn't been. I still think I might need to look at the monovalve "kit" - response time is not immediate, rather delayed by seemingly 15 - 30 seconds sometimes longer? But I do hear the periodic hissing noise as the vacuum valves are operating. NOW if only my legwell area and center vents worked properly - (legwell vents are totally non-functioning and center vents work when they want to!).
__________________
Dale 1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD] 1988 260e Sedan 165K 2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD] 2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K ----------------------------- 2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]
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#7
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What do you remove to get at the light bulbs behind the buttons? Do you have to pull the whole unit?
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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