After alot of time spent getting new O rings, washers for the delivery valves, U tube for the water pump, research and alot of help from Kevin. The status of this project is as follows:

The cooling system is ready with antifreeze.

The engine is alot cleaner.

Found the missing spring and re-assembled the two delivery valves with new parts. I have not put them back into the IP yet.

Determined that one of the IP pistons is stuck and not moving when the engine is cranked. Filled it with Marvel Mystery Oil, and touched it with the end of a small screw driver. Its is tight not loose like the other one that seems to float. Any suggestons?

Could a pull start loosen up a stuck IP?
Is there anything that I can do to free this up without removing or having the IP rebuilt?

I still haven't spent much money and would like to know the engine will run and doesn't have any serious problems before investing any more money into it like maybe buying a new IP.

Just a thought...could the injection pump be 180 degrees out of time?

I rebuilt my 240D years ago and after all of the work, the engine would not start. I put some diesel in the intake manifold and did get it to puff a few times but it would never start. I had put the IP on 180 degrees off....once put on correctly, it ran like a champ.

Since you really don't know the history of the car, check the IP timing. You should find some info if you search the threads...I think that you bring piston one to TDC (this is where I blew it...I was on the exhaust stroke instead of compression)...remove the IP, line up the marks and put it back on...I believe it should begin fuel delivery at 26 degrees below TDC on the number 1 line...but don't take my word for it!

Just a thought...
the tenor man

I suppose anything is possible except the PO did tell me that he drove it before he atempted to change the water pump and thats all he did two years ago.

Since my last post I have learned the correct terminology is plunger not piston. Sorry... I've learned alot since starting this project and learning more every day. Looks like I may become an expert before this is over with.

Tryed some PB Blaster down in there and taped the outside of the pump with a rubber mallet. Also, pulled the stop start switch back and forth and cranked the engine several times still won't break loose...

Next, I'm going to put something small and flat on top of the plunger after turning the engine to a position where the plunger should be down and tap it with a mallet. If that doesn't work then I'll try a pull start, then I'll pull the IP off and get it repaired... Thats the plan.

Regarding your no start situation.
Since the car sat for two years, it's a good bet that your fuel tank developed algae growth. The algae grows when the air temperature fluctuates, hot-cool-cold). Condensation forms in the gas tank and the water settles at the bottom of the tank and that's where the algae grows. It will clog your fuel sender, strainer and in line filters. My 240 sat for close to two years and I dumped the fuel tank when I was getting it back on line. The fuel looked like mud with pieces of this black gooey stuff, (algae). I changed the strainer and filters, put in the new battery, pumped some more diesel for good measure, turned the key, (glow plugs still worked), and the car started up the first time.
Check your plastic filter. If the contents look almost black, that may be the culprit.

Rahn
1979 240D 310,009 mi
1989 300E 280,101 mi

After sitting for 3 years My 190d was full of algae. I flushed the tank with RUG and drained. Alot of black crud came out. I installed all new filters and topped it off with diesel. The filters are all clean now. As far as the IP issue, My 190D had a no fuel issue on # four. On my IP There is a brass colored side cover on the IP that is directly under the delivery valves. I removed the four screws, removed the cover and took a long look inside. There is a rail in there with four clamped on slides that control fuel delivery to each individual delivery valve. All were evenly spaced except number four which was all the way to the right and loose on the rail. I moved it into the approximate position based on the location of the others, tightened it down and PRESTO, she fired right up and idled perfect.

Hope this helps

I changed both fuel filters and I'm not using the fuel tank I'm using a clear plastic orange juice container with both fuel lines in it.

I'll take a look at removing the side panel of the IP and see what I find.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I removed the side panel screws but couldn't get the plate off. I guess I need to remove the hand pump to get it off. Also removed the red oil cap the IP was dry no oil. What kind of oil goes in the IP? How much should be in there? I guess thats why the plunger is stuck. I've attached a few pics of the IP you can see where the plunger on #2 is at the top of the barrel and #1 is also... #2 is the one thats stuck... Thats PB Blaster soaking in there... Thanks for your advise...

Attached Thumbnails

   

I believe the IP is lubricated with engine oil.

__________________
99 E300 TD -- sold
01 540i 6 spd

The W115 220D injection pumps were not hooked to the engine oil system. Since this is a W115 240D, it is likely that the injection pump is similar. The red cap should be removed and oil added until it flows out the overflow. Been too long to remember if this is an open overflow or not. Also believe that 30 wgt engine oil was what we used in the IP sump. The sump on the IP should be checked rather frequently, and the oil renewed periodically as it can become diluted from the diesel running thru the pump.

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

Merry Christmas everyone thats helped on this project!!!

I finally got it started last night but couldn't see much, so today I started it again .... found that theres a bolt missing from the bottom of the water pump that was throwing oil out onto the the main fly wheel and it was being thown all over the engine.... And the injectors on #1 and #2 are leaking around the seal... But other than that its running pretty good , no smoke out the tail pipe, smooths out just above 1000 rpms. Thats a total of about $250 dollars I've spent so far, and $100 of that was the tow to my house.

Its been nearly two full months but I finally did it. It was a stuck plunger on #2 in the IP .. I used a star screw driver with a flat bottom about the same size as the plunger set it on the plunger and taped it with a hammer. It moved down and broke loose. First I removed the hand pump and the side panel cranked it so I could see the cam roller things going up and down except #2. I could see the cam position from the hole where the hand pump was, so I positioned it to where I knew the #2 plunger should be down... then taped it with the hammer and forced it down on the cam. oiled it up with WD40 and cranked again this time I could see all the plungers going up and down like they should...

I put the delivery valves back on with out the lines to the injectors and cranked... did not see any fuel being spit out the tops of the delivery valve holders so I backed off of the 30 ft lbs of tork on them and then cranked again ... then I did see fuel being spit out ... put the lines back on, replaced the fuel in my orange juice container with fresh diesel, gave it a glow with my jump starter battery... cranked it several times shut off the glow, gave it a rest... tryed again several times till the lines to the injectors were filled... then finally it spat and sputtered then more gas peddle and she was running... shut off the glow from the jumper battery... and let it run for about 10 minutes.

It was a great Christmas present for me. But I definately couldn't have done it with out the help of this forum and especially Kevin B

I'll keep posting here with my progress in pulling this engine and turning it into a power plant running on WVO... Before I do that I will probably drive the car around just to see how everything else on it is... such as the trany etc...