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#1
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eBay ripped off - need help for repairs
I bought a 82 300SD off eBay and should have walked away from the deal as there we lots of things that made me suspicious about the deal that I won't get into here. While I did finally get the car and drove it 600 miles home, it's rarely ran for more than a week at a time since. I think I might be getting close on the electrical and cooling issues, but the car still suffer from a very, very, very rough idle and hard start. After it's going or above 1500 rpm it's smooth as glass. I read that air in the fuel lines could cause this but haven't a clue how to check it out.
I need the name of a good mechanic in the Michigan Thumb Area (Midland, Bay City, Saginaw, etc) and some straight advice. Thanks Jim |
#2
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try changing the fuel filters, clean banjo bolt, and run some diesel purge or biodiesel. If things dont clear up rack damper pin/bolt (cant exaclty remember if it was a pin or bolt) and check motor mounts.
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Current: 05 E320 CDI 07 GL320 CDI 08 Sprinter 05 Dodge Cummins 01 Dodge Cummins Previous 2004 E55 AMG 2002 C32 AMG (#2) 1995 E300 1978 300D 1987 300D 2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[ 1981 300SD 1983 300SD 1987 300SDL 2002 Jetta TDI 1996 S420 1995 S500 1993 190E 2.6 1992 190E 2.3 1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed |
#3
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Have you done a compression check? Have you checked for functioning glow plugs? Do those before pursuing the fuel problem. You could check the fuel problem by putting a hose into a soda bottle filled with diesel and connecting it directly to the lift pump. This would exclude most of the air leak possibilities. You would need to lead the return fuel into the soda bottle also if you wanted to run it that way for a while.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#4
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The rough idle could be a lot of things like clogged and or unbalanced injectors, injection pump problems, valves out of adjustment etc. The good news is that engine, the OM617 is about as bullet proof as you can get. Use the search function for the rough idle and you will find lots of info.
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Doug 1987 300TD x 3 2005 E320CDI |
#5
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A rough idle that smooths out at hgiher rpm is a dead give-away for a plugged pre-filter or tank screen.
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#6
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You need to contact WHUNTER on this forum and take the car for a visit to him......
Part of your problem is that it's colder than sin out there in Michigan...that impacts performance big time. Drop a PM to WHUNTER to see if he can spend some time with you!
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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart 1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif |
#7
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Things to add to your checklist:
- make sure there's no residual vacuum at the shut-off actuator. Could be a faulty key switch. - make sure the priming pump isn't leaking and, if the old style, the handle is in the secured position - check rack damper pin setting. Maybe borrow a known good rack damper pin so you can qualify/disqualify yours. - do you know what's in the fuel tank? Strainer blockage aside, someone might have experimented with fuels before you bought the car. Sixto 93 300SD |
#8
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If car was materially misrepresented and costs rise you might have a slight possibility of a claim through ebay. Do not hold your breath though. A general tune up of the diesel should be preformed. As you go along through that proceedure the fault or faults mighty be found. This has saved my bacon many times when I was not really sure what was causing the problem for sure. I would do a general compression check first after making sure valve adjustment clearances are okay. No sense flogging a dead horse. Oddly enough the compression will probably be okay. Just in case kind of thing really as starting and running and smooth idle do depend on the essentials like compression being good or at least reasonable on all cylinders. Most the time the fault issues turn out to be relatively minor in nature causing problems like you describe. But to assume that is always going to be the case is not reality. Otherwise you can spend a fair amount of change before finding too late and many dollars later what the real issue is. Also from a more practical viewpoint. Once you know what your current compression is you can estimate how low in temperature car will start within reason. Probably about how many useful miles are left in the engine as well. Plus know if the car is doing all it can or another minor problem exists also. Again just my opinion as there are many other approaches. By being thorough you are building from a solid foundation rather than playing around on quicksand. With this site and it's archives plus it's members you can also do all this yourself and become familiar with your car and help others. The savings in money will buy what tools you require with money left over. These cars were designed for average guys like myself to work around. Plus the support makes it possible. I think a cheap compression checker for diesels is worth under 20.00 for example if you cannot borrow one. We all start somewhere or are at other peoples mercy forever. You could look at this as the start of a positive learning experience. Please excuse the soapbox approach.
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