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#1
11-15-2006, 01:25 PM
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Still can't find vacuum leak...any help?
O.K. it has been 3 days now of looking and trying to find vacuum leak. '84 300TD
Won't shut off. Door locks don't work. Every thing worked fine before I adjusted the valves. I've looked at every connection that I might have pull off or dislodged. I had to replace the vacuum line that goes from the back of the exhaust manifold to what looks like a diaphram near the IP. The broke because it was brittle. I could only find soft tubing to replace it with. Nobody had the hard plastic line that broke. It connects to a banjo fitting off the manifold. Could this be the problem??? If I have to buy a vacuum gauge, does it have to a mityvac? And how do you use it to test for a leak? I'M GOING CRAZY WITH THIS...p.s. my wife says she can hear hissing inside the driver's door. I took the door panel off and everything seems fine and of course I didn't hear any hissing. Does the master door switch ever go bad? The white plastic piece with the 3 vacuum connections. It looked brand new. Thanks people...
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'84 300TD 100 % Biodiesel 
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#2
11-15-2006, 02:06 PM
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Did you check all the vacuum connections at the black box on the valve cover? Sounds like something is either still disconnected, or connected wrong. How are the brakes? If brakes are good, then you know the vacuum pump and brake booster are good. Check all connections, including the one coming out of the main line that runs to the brake booster. The vacuum connectors on that can be broken also.
Yes, the master lock actuator does go out, but it is highly unlikely that happened since it all worked prior to the valve adustment. The hard brittle line that broke is actually not a vacuum line, but a line that sends turbo boost pressure signals to the ALDA. It is attached to the intake. It is supposed to go to a turbo switch over valve located on the firewall just up and left from the brake booster, then on to the ALDA. You do not have to buy the Mity Vac brand name, but it does seem to be the best out there. The Mity Vac will
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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#3
11-15-2006, 02:07 PM
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Buy a mity vac (I own a generic one I bought for $15 @ harbor freight), a set of golf tees, some electrical tape, and PM me when you get this stuff. I'll give you my number, and walk you through it.
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1989 300E 144K
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#4
11-15-2006, 02:09 PM
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If you are chasing vac leaks you really need a mity vac. You don't have to get that specific brand, but any vacuum hand pump with a guage will work.
To use the vac gauge you hook it up to a vac line and either start the engine and see how much vac the engine is pulling, or you can hand pump it and see if something is holding vac. Master door switches don't usually go bad. If the hard plasitc line broke right at the banjo bolt you can heat up the end of the line with a lighter and get it soft and them shove it on the banjo bolt quickly and it will be good as new.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon  '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#5
11-15-2006, 02:10 PM
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By the way, it's TOTALLY pointless to tackle anything like this on these cars without a hand vac pump. The leaks aren't really visible. I think autozone loans these, also.
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1989 300E 144K
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#6
11-15-2006, 05:03 PM
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mityvac sources:
AZ (cheapest) $29.99 Harbor Freight $34.99 was on sale $28.99 NAPA $35.99 Might as well get one if you own a D or an older MB. Easy to use... you'll figure it out...
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done  If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa
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#7
11-15-2006, 06:14 PM
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Vacuum Pump
Quote:
US General BRAKE BLEEDER & VACUUM PUMP KT $19.99 http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=vacuum+pump&Submit=Go Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/
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#8
11-15-2006, 06:46 PM
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Block off every system except the shut off valve until you get it fixed and at least you won't have to open the hood to shut if off.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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#10
11-16-2006, 07:21 AM
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it really is just a slow process of elimination, start with nothing attached and add bits till it stops working, that is unless the vacuum pump is knackered, but your brakes would be rubbish, the flexi pipe you put in...it isn't collapsing under vacuum?
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------------------------------------------------------- 88 709d moved on 82 406 moved on 82 240d moved on 81 230e deceased 79 240d deceased 73 230.4 moved on 96 210 300 td moved on 92 201 moved on 82 280e daily driver 79 300d keeper 81 240d deceased 87 hymer 660s (408) keeper .........................  You can NEVER have too many cars
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