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Just got a 82 300DT - a newbie question...
just picked up the car yesterday - my first MB - my first diesel. can't wait to get into this...i fall squarely into the newbie category.
first thing i noticed is that the oil is low. i live in the northeast - is there a consensus pick for oil brand and type? in the diesel world will it matter that i have no idea what type of oil is in there now? thanks, sorry for the painfully newbie question... dd ps. what a great forum... |
#2
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It matters not what is in there now, get a good STP or Fram filter 2930 and change what is in there for your preference of CI rated oil. for now, I would just put in some cheap delo 400 or rotella from wally world. then once you know what the characteristics on the motor are, move up to a better quality synthetic.
John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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Diesel oil + filter
Quote:
As suggested, get some oil that is rated for diesel engines -- there's gasser oil and diesel oil. Diesel oil has extra additives to help handle the soot that gets into the oil. You'll need something like 8 quarts, so look for the gallon jugs, its usually diesel oil anyway. Check the owners manual and get the correct weight for the temperatures you expect before the next oil change. Get an oil filter. MB diesels are different than gas cars -- no screw-on filters for these babies. The filter cartridge drops into a bolt-down pressure cannister. The canister lid sees around 100PSI of pressure at high RPM and with warm oil, so keep a close eye on it for leaks after the change for a while. Worst thing you can do to the engine is to loose your oil, and at 100PSI, that can happen very fast if you're loosing it from the oil filtration system. You'll need the filter cartridge and the large O-ring for the top of the filter housing. Might also want to look for new crush washers for the lid and new small O-rings for the stem. When I did my oil change, I figured an oil filter is an oil filter is an oil filter and ended up at NAPA for mine. It isn't a bypass filter like it should be, but I plan to change oil again in under 1000 miles anyway (SOP for me with new used car). If I had that first oil change to do over again, I'd do something like give Phil from the buy-parts section of this site a call, explain what I'm up to and get the full set of parts I'll need and a good quality filter. If you want a brand name, the Hengst seems to be the only brand people haven't found bad examples of yet and will be what I order for the next oil change since it'll be in there for a while this time. If you don't already have one, get a manual to help on how to do maintence like this. The Haynes is pretty good for simple stuff like this, but mine did forget about the stem O-rings and crush washers. I got by (this time) without changing either. Tons to read here on oil and oil filters -- I think those two alone are the most popular thread subjects around here . Getting the oil changed while you climb the learning curve is good advise. I've droned on a bit. Hope it helps instead of insulting your intelligence
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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
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another thing to do
Since you just bought it I would check the inline fuel filter and the spin on..they are easy to change out and if you don't know about the PO and how well he took care of it is something I would do right away. I run rotella 15/40 in mine but I live in the south where cold weather doesn't stick around long. Do a search on "oil types" or something like that and you can find what different people are using. From what I have read, synthetic is the way to go. My next oil change I will be changing to that. If you have a leak though, I would fix the leak before you switch over...sythentic can start to cost you some $$$ if you have a leak.
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1979 240d 216k (W123) Daily Driver Volvo 245DL 210k 1979 300D FOR SALE 2002 Tahoe 91k FOR SALE 1980 300sd 177k (W116) Sold 1980 300sd Parts (W116) Junked 1979 240D 121k (W123) Sold 1982 300TDT 298K (W123) (Sold) |
#5
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Which oil and filters are a huge debate. My recommendations
Mercedes filters only, Join the Mercedes Benz Club of America so you can get a discount on parts and service at the dealer. Some times whole sale prices. Oil, I also use Rotella, Its designed for diesels and cheap at Walmart. Change your oil and filter every 3000 miles if you want the engine to last. Change all the fluids in the car, Oil, antifreeze, power steering fluid and filter, tranny filter and fluid, Change all filters, air fuel ( inline and main fuel filter) Make sure you have inline vacuum filters. Check all vacuum lines and 2way, 3way and 4 way connectors. inspect all hoses for condition. Change drive belts if they look old and cracked. Check brake pad wear. Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#6
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for now...
thanks for all of the responses! ill just put in some regular non-synthetic oil for the time being. once ive verified that the oil is just low and not leaking ill do a change with synthetic and new oil filter. im not driving the car anywhere in the meantime.
i checked the oil when i got the car and it was not registering on the dipstick. yikes. the oil pressure gauge i remember was around 2 or 1.75, i dont think the oil light was on. ill see. this car i already know i need new rear axle shafts, motor mounts, vacuum system fiddling and a tranny adjustment. im in it to win it... dd |
#7
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I don't think theese cars have low oil lights, so don't rely on that to keep you safe.
2 bar on cold oil in these cars is a bad sign. John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#8
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gulp.
haha, figures i'd get a bad sign like this straight away. when driving the car this sunday before buying it was above two after it was warmed up. ill grab some oil on the way home tonight and see what ive gotten myself into.
thanks for all of the help so far on such a boring quetion... |
#9
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Oh, and welcome to the forum!
click the User CP link at the top of the pages and update your profile and add a signature like mine... hopefully you don't have as many cars as ME if you have oil on the stick, and the car is warm and it is idling, 2 or 1.5 even is fine, as long as it jumps up to 45 when you touch the throttle. John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#10
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alas, i have no owners manual..what spec oil should i use?
i couldnt find this info by searching the forum or web more than a few times...
no manual came with the car, and my haynes manual says refer to my owners manual... . my guess would be 15W-40? i am just putting it in temporaily to investigate this lack of oil leak 'condition' well call it, i wont really be driving on it much. dd |
#11
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I just picked up my 9th new to me benz, an 85 300sd with 252K on the clock. First thing I do is drop it off at my mechanic after I check the current oil by sucking up a oil sample thru the dipstick and off it goes to the testing lab. This is to establish a base line for future engine checks.
I have the Indy check it from front to back: engine belts, vacuum hoses, change oil with Delovac 15w 40, new filters: oil, fuel, air, if needed. check atf, change it along with the filter to synthetic AMSOIL ATF. Then check all safety items: brakes, steering, lights, etc. The third phase is creature comforts: elec accessories, radio, a/c. Welcome to the club
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71 220D 169K wrecked 83 240D 118K sweet 4 speed 91 350SDL (one of the 60% good engines) 156K 84 300d (loaner to my sister) 189K 79 300SD (partswagen) 86 420SEL partswagen 70 220d (partswagen) 68 280s GASSER!!! under construction now 85 300sd 310K miles winter beater car retired 93 300d 2.5 turbo 168K wife's car 83 280SL euro 5 speed 155K 69 250S newest project 54K |
#12
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Quote:
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#13
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thanks john...i just need to see why my oil is low to start. its unseasonably warm up here right now...in the 50's. it wont last for long.
ill start with the 15W-40...im going to put the car away for the winter so ill put synthetic in while it sleeps.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#14
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cdplayer
As time allows put in a new diaphram in your vacuum pump. My first Benz was a 1980 300CD. Well the diaphram failed and sucked oil up into the air breather and into the vacuum lines that fed into the passenger compartment. What a mess.
I knew absolutely nothing about these cars, but learned over the years by exploring Pic N Pull junk yards. I eventually bought a shop manual on CD from Ebay that covered this car. And the three Benz's that I have eventually come to own since then. I also discovered that putting 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank at fill up would give me around 47 more miles per tank! Every little bit helps. Good luck! |
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