putting cars in storage - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

83-240D · #1 11-20-2006, 10:38 PM

besides disconnecting the battery, what?

on jack stands or on the tires?

full tank with biobor added or less?

both cars have had oil changes recently.

storage on a concrete pad in a barn so no heat but no snow, rain, or ice either. not heated.

vstech · #2 11-20-2006, 10:44 PM

I am sure it's been covered before here... but depending on duration, over 3 months, get the tires off the ground. always keep the fuel tank full to prevent condensation collecting. and if the engine has been run since the oil was changed, change it again, acid can collect in the oil and cause damage to the motor. then you might wanna make SURE the coolant is perfect.
John

Matt L · #3 11-20-2006, 10:49 PM

Definitely fill the tank, even if you have to empty it and refill after the storage. Tires off the ground unless you plan to change them after you put the car back in service. That concrete should be covered with plastic to prevent water vapor from getting to the underside of the car. Ensure that your coolant is good and your brake fluid is fresh. If you're really industrious, remove the glow plugs or injectors and squirt an ounce or so of oil into each cylinder.

Disconnecting the battery is half of that job; remove it from the car.

Jim W. · #4 11-21-2006, 07:59 AM

Storage in a barn is usually a precursor to mice. Use continuous "Tin Cat" type traps, one in the trunk, at least one in the cabin and one in the engine area. Peanut butter makes a great bait. Check the traps weekly if possible. Put whole cloves in the same areas. About a tablespoon in a jar lid makes a good deterrent, apparently mice don't like cloves. The traps are cheap insurance.

Jim W.

vstech · #5 11-21-2006, 08:06 AM

best mice deterrent I have seen is the car tent, you drive in it, and zip it up. totally sealed against tons of problems, supposedly against mice too.
John

#6 11-21-2006, 08:33 AM

Mice still crew on anything. I would put out poison and monitor it at least bi weekly.

rrgrassi · #7 11-21-2006, 11:55 AM

All of the above, and after you squirt oil in the cylinders, spin the engine by hand (wrench on the crank pully bolt) to coat the cylinder walls, then close up the engine.

Hatterasguy · #8 11-21-2006, 12:58 PM

I store the SDL about 6-7 months a year. The location is a semi heated garage, dry and no rodents. I do the following:

1. Remove the battery, keep it charged.
2. Fill tank to the top to prevent condensation, add Biobor just for kicks mostly.
3. Change fuel filters, so I'm ready to go in the spring.
4. Change oil.
5. Put junk storage wheels on it to prevent damage to good ones. Certainly if you lack a second set of wheels put the car up on jack stands and increase the air pressure in the tires.
6. Full clean and detail.
7. Put car cover on it.

Just some tips, mice don't like dryer sheets, so if that’s an issue stick dryer sheets everywhere. I also hang some moisture absorbent bags inside and in the trunk, no funk in the spring so they seem to work.

Just remember if you don't drive a car much you need to do maintaince based on time instead of mileage. Ie coolant still changed every 2-3 years, brake fluid every spring, oil every six months.

vwbuge · #9 11-21-2006, 01:14 PM

To each his own, but I think you guys are all overkill. I have stored more than one car over the years and one I stored 8 months out of the year.

Just make sure the tank is full. A little Sta-bil if you wish. Disconnect the battery and take it with you. Hook it up to a tender.

Walk away.

If stored for a long time (few months) disconnect the coil wire (gasser) and crank a few times to get the oil flowing.

If you have decent tires flat spots won't occur unless the car is not moved in well over a year.

83-240D · #10 11-21-2006, 09:22 PM

thanks everyone.

jacks i figured on. drier sheets i never thought of good idea. battery removal would mean i have a spare for anoither car. also a plus.

it will be for the winter months unless they are sold sooner..