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  #1  
Old 11-26-2006, 07:53 AM
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Fuse keeps blowing

'83 240D.....The fuse that is connected to the blower/fan motor keeps blowing. I'll replace it, turn the heat on, fan motor operates fine for about 2 minutes, then the fuse blows again. Do you guys think it is a bad fan motor even though the motor seems to run fine? Does that particular fuse supply anything else or is it just for the fan motor?

I'm an electrical idiot and don't own any testers. Wouldn't know how to use them if I had one!

Thanks and happy holidays to everyone.

Cheers,

Bill

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  #2  
Old 11-26-2006, 01:09 PM
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You must have a short circuit causing it to blow. another circuit has attached on to that one causing to much current flow. The fuse you have blows because the amount of current is to high. Unless you know how to track down short circuits which I don't think you do, take it to an automotive electrician.
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  #3  
Old 11-26-2006, 01:43 PM
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Just a question..... Are you using the right amperage fuse?
White= 8 amps
Red= 16 amps
Blue=25 amps
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  #4  
Old 11-26-2006, 05:20 PM
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Isn't there a commen problem with #8 fuse that requires a "beefed up" fuse, but I thought it was only a problem when the AC was on, which shouldn't be an issue this time of year.
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  #5  
Old 11-26-2006, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
Just a question..... Are you using the right amperage fuse?
White= 8 amps
Red= 16 amps
Blue=25 amps
I believe so. A white one came out which is what I put back in. The old fuse I took out was in there for 2 years since I've owned the car.

Anyone know if that is indeed the correct amp fuse?

Thanks.

Cheers,

Bill
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  #6  
Old 11-26-2006, 07:42 PM
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You might have a similar problem to what I had when I bought my car. I was told that you cant run the fan higher than the second speed because it would blow the fuse. I replaced the entire fan control switch, the center one between the two heater knobs and the problem vanished. So it might be your fan switch rather than the blower motor itself.

- Peter.
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  #7  
Old 11-26-2006, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pj67coll View Post
You might have a similar problem to what I had when I bought my car. I was told that you cant run the fan higher than the second speed because it would blow the fuse. I replaced the entire fan control switch, the center one between the two heater knobs and the problem vanished. So it might be your fan switch rather than the blower motor itself.

- Peter.
Yea Peter. I was thinking the switch may be a possibility since the fan motor doesn't make any weird noises and seems to run at the correct RPM. Maybe I'll try putting my last white fuse in then run on #2 speed. If it doesn't blow then the switch is the culprit.

Thanks.

Cheers,

Bill
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  #8  
Old 11-26-2006, 08:35 PM
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does it blow after you floor the gas pedal? My kick down switch circuit had a short at the transmission and it drove the climate control nuts till I found it. two fuses run the system on the '83s #8 and #14 I think. Cechk the current draw thru the fuse at all speeds and if ok, crawl under the car and have a look at the wire going to the kickdown solenoid on back of transmission. of course if you have a stick shift, just ignore me
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  #9  
Old 11-26-2006, 08:37 PM
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This happens to me, only its when i use the sunroof. I haven't used it for a prolly two years because of it. Wish i had a hand cranked sunroof
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  #10  
Old 11-26-2006, 08:40 PM
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First
The Service Manual calls for a 16 amp fuse (red) in spot #8.

If the fuse continues to blow then it could be a couple of things. Motor brushes can cause the blown fuse as they wear. It could also be the switch as was posted.

So start with the correct fuse first.

Consider changing all your fuses with the correct fuse and using the copper contact fuses is better.
Here are the correct fuses for your car. 1983 240D

#1-8amp
#2-8amp
#3-8amp
#4-8amp (16 with heated seats)
#5 Not used
#6-16amp
#7-8amp
#8-8amp
#9-8amp
#10-16amp(25 with heated seats)
#11-16amp
#12-8amp
#13-8amp
#14-8amps
a-16amp
b-16amp
c-16amp
d-16amp

Radio inline fuse 2 amp

Dave
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  #11  
Old 11-26-2006, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmorrison View Post
First
The Service Manual calls for a 16 amp fuse (red) in spot #8.

If the fuse continues to blow then it could be a couple of things. Motor brushes can cause the blown fuse as they wear. It could also be the switch as was posted.

So start with the correct fuse first.

Consider changing all your fuses with the correct fuse and using the copper contact fuses is better.
Here are the correct fuses for your car. 1983 240D

#1-8amp
#2-8amp
#3-8amp
#4-8amp (16 with heated seats)
#5 Not used
#6-16amp
#7-8amp
#8-8amp
#9-8amp
#10-16amp(25 with heated seats)
#11-16amp
#12-8amp
#13-8amp
#14-8amps
a-16amp
b-16amp
c-16amp
d-16amp

Radio inline fuse 2 amp

Dave

Dave,
You said that #8 [fan motor circuit] requires a 16 amp [red] fuse but your chart says a white [8] amp is what belongs in the #8 spot. Which is it?

It had a white fuse in that spot for the 2 years since I've owned it and things worked fine until recently. Would the fan motor run at the proper rpm with worn brushes? It sounds fine and runs at the right RPM.

Bobk......I've got the 4 speed so no kick down switch. Just for the record no sunroof either. I think the only thing on that fuse is the fan motor. Thats all that quits working when it blows.

Cheers,

Bill
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2008, 03:45 PM
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I also beleive the #8 fuse requires a 8 amp white fuse. someone before mentioned a mod to cure the common problem of a fuse blowing. which fuse is it for and Can I get it from Phil?
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  #13  
Old 01-20-2008, 03:59 PM
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Bill do you still have the TD? swap out blower motors and see if it still blows with that one in its place.

You could also check current draw of the blower motor by hooking a meter inline and reading what it draws on each fan speed setting, but of course, you'd need a meter capable of that first.

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