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  #16  
Old 11-28-2006, 10:38 AM
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When I did my chain I peened the link over so it would not come off as Leathemank suggests. But one word of caution Wear safety glasses! Naturally I sharpened the punch that I used for the job. When the punch pounded into the hardened link a small bit of steel flew off and imbedded itself into my eyebrow. It 's amazing how much blood can come from a small cut. Another inch and it would have been a trip to the hospital.

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  #17  
Old 11-28-2006, 01:20 PM
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Take a grinder and grind any link on the original chain, stick the new chain on, they do link together and roll it around real slow. Once you put pressure on them the links will hold together without clips or anything, well good enough for you to roll it around. At least it worked for me maybe I got lucky. Once you get the new chain in crimp it with the proper tool, if you do it right you will not be able to spot the crimp. The "master" link should blend right in with the others.
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  #18  
Old 11-28-2006, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mplafleur View Post
I've always rolled the new chain in using the new master link. There's no reason to worry about it moving and coming out. It never, ever, budged. In fact, it's hard to find when it comes out the other side. You only know it because it's missing the side plate.
Yep, that's what I figured as well. Thanks for the confirmation.
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2006, 09:22 PM
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If it's the car in his sig it's a 617.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k
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  #20  
Old 11-28-2006, 10:00 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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At this point the car has been sealed back up and is being driven.

I will change out the chain when I swap the engine-tranny into the new body this late winter/early spring........

Thanks for the help all!

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Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

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1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

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