I am the new owner of a 1976 240D w115. I am unfamiliar with maintainence and need help deciding what the most economical/best way to give the car a DIY tune-up.

Are the kits offered from Diesel Giant good deals? Can I get the same items at AutoZone/Pep Boys for cheaper? This is all new to me, so I would appreciate some advice. Thanks ahead of time!

http://dieselgiant.com/diesel_parts_for_sale.htm#Diesel%20Extreme%20Makeover%20Filter%20Kit

That kit is a good deal.

you might find compatible parts at chain stores,
but there is a significant difference between those and products engineered the way your vehicle is.
spend a little more money in the short term, and save a ton of money over the long.

dieselgiant has a good thing going, reasonable rates and great resources working through mb's..

Thanks a ton guys. After reading this website I can tell that it's regulars really know what they're talking about. One other question:

What tools in addition to the kits should I purchase?

Thanks,

G.S.

I stole this list from my old "How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive" book by John Muir, and modified it to suit the tools I have been using on my TD.

Phase 1 - Basic stuff:

• Flash Light and/or drop light.
• Big screwdriver (18" or 24" with plastic handle)
• Screwdriver Set (you can buy one that has two sizes of flat and two sizes of philips in one handle)
• 3/8" drive metric socket set (8mm - 19mm with 3" extension)
• 6" extension for socket set
• U-Joint for socket set
• Combination wrench set (7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm. 20mm, 22mm)
• Utility knife
• Hammer (light ball peen)
• Metric Allen head wrench set
• A couple of Vice Grips (6" 8" etc.)
• Feeler gauge set
• Wire brush (small toothbrush sized)
• Slip-joint pliers
• Needle-nose pliers (for cotter pins)
• Bottle jack or scissors jack (a floor jack is even better)
• Two sturdy jack stands - Don't scrimp here!!!
• Your choice of penetrant oil (Liquid wrench, PB Blaster , etc.)
• 1 1/2" stiff putty knife or gasket scraper (buy a bastard file while you're at it and sharpen the putty knife).

Phase 2 - More interesting work:

• Beam-type Torque Wrench 1/2" drive - 0-150 ft. lb. capacity (a 3/8" torque wrench is also useful)
• 1/2" Metric socket set (try to get one with the larger sizes)
• 1/2" flex handle or breaker bar.
• 6" extension for the 1/2" socket set
• 1/2" U-Joint
• 1/2" to 3/8" adapter
• Set of metric flare wrenches.
• Set of drift punches
• 14mm Allen head for draining/filling the diff - for use with 1/2" socket set (can be purchased at Autozone as a set with 12mm and 17mm sockets)
• Magnet on extendable handle
• Propane torch for help with stuck fasteners (or those installed with lock-tite)

As you work on projects, you're going to need special-purpose tools like pullers, snap-ring pliers, crimpers (for electrical work), Volt-Ohm meters (ditto), etc. Buy those as you need them.

Then there are tools that are just nice to have, like a 1/4" socket set or a set of crows-foot wrenches. You'll know when to buy them!

I could go on, but it would start sounding like a Craftsman Christmas catalog.

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1984 300TD

That's the only thing I'd change on that list. I would MUCH prefer to see a click type torque wrench in somebody's tool box. It's more accurate, not much more expensive, it lasts longer, and you can set it to the exact torque you need instead of guesstimating what you are putting out. Just NEVER use it CCW, to loosen bolts, or as a breaker bar.

My click type torque wrench has a reversible ratcheting head. I have to use it CCW to torque the left hand thread bolt that holds the timer to the IP.

Sixto
93 300SD

That CAN damage them. I have personally seen them damaged (even the ones with a reversible head) damaged by using them CCW.

I never really knew what torque wrench to buy though. Some say the Craftsman ones are hit and miss. I can bet my Harbor Freight one isn't of the best quality.

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

Just to chime in, I purchased the Diesel Giant Extreme Makeover kit when I bought my MB. By following the How To pages on the Diesel Giant site I was able to do everything the kit called for. I have no experience with cars, but the kit and Russell's How To pages made it easy. Now all of my fluid and filters are new.

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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

I highly reccomend DG's site and products. Good prices, customer support. Nice guy, too! And good luck finding ANY of this stuff at chain parts stores.

__________________
1989 300E 144K

I bought from Dieselgiant,had no problems,and his online and telephone support sure was welcomed.







1981 Mercedes 300D
running on used oil and diesel(black diesel)
15gal diesel and 40 used other oil

I would add Ball Joint separators to the list. And I don't mean the ones you could rent (BJ press from and pickle fork from AZ). Ball joint replacement is inevitable with these cars. I am not a fan of the fork so I would not recommend using them. The NAPA separator is a better choice. Do a search and you'll see picks of them.

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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa

As long as it's a QUALITY MADE clicker torque wrench, not some cheap piece of junk made in China. I overtorqued and ruined an intake manifold using one of these, turns out it was set wrong from the manufacturer and overtorqued by 10 ft/lbs, no matter what it was set to. If I had to choose between a cheap made in China clicker or a good Craftsman balance beam, I'd take the balance beam.

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Just say "NO" to Ethanol - Drive Diesel

Mitchell Oates
Mooresville, NC
'87 300D 212K miles
'87 300D 151K miles - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD 67K miles
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club

By definition (unless it is incorrectly manufactured or severely abused) a beam torque wrench will always be in calibration. I had a cheapo clicker torque wrench calibrated and it failed - it turns out it could not be adjusted to spec. If you have a clicker torque wrench, you have to get it calibrated every year or so, otherwise there's no point in the extra purchase expense.

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1984 300TD