My problem is that when the engine is cold and you start it, put it in drive and hit the foot brake, it stops but the vibes are bad. Changed both mounts and it rides like a totally new car. The way Gilly did it was to have me hold onto the intake manifold while it was running that way and he was seeing if the vibes went away which they did. Took the mounts out and they were about half an inch shorter than the new ones. I am thinking of replacing the trans mount too but had to be sure about the engine ones first.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

I'm awaiting delivery, when it arrives I'll put it in.

I didn't do the tranny mount, mine looked OK and it sees much less of the kind of stress that the motor mounts do but it's probably a good idea to change it at some point...the part is cheap and if it is like most models changing it is easy. I need to draw the line at some point and stop working on the car and just enjoy driving it. Now that it is leak-free and smooth as silk I hope to make it through winter without having to spend any more time and money on it...I'll put the tranny mount on the spring list of things to do when I am looking for a project.

The dramatic improvement that came from replacing the motor mounts is really amazing. When you start up and shut down it doesn't shake the entire car like it did before.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I got the transmission mount. For those who are curious, heres a profile shot:



The funny shaped yellowish bits on the bottom of the inside are just bits of rubber from the moulding process, they don't do anything.

I'll put it in asap.

Let us know how the job goes.

Len

Did it today. Very very easy job. The new one is quite different from the old one, which is squatter in design with ridges on the top.

All you do is put a big thick piece of wood inbetween your trolley jack and the transmission sump, jack it up an inch or so (carefully, the sump is quite thin). There is a small crossmember held on with a few bolts, unbolt and remove that. Mine had a couple of spots of rust, nothing serious though and I just covered them with used engine oil. The transmission is bolted to the piece of suspended metal in the image above. The mount is bolted to the car. Unbolt everything, remove, put the new one in. Crossmember back in place, job done.

20 minutes tops - and 10 of those minutes will be spent removing the plastic undertray


The old mount appeared visually ok, didn't seem to be damaged in any way so I guess it was ok. Still the price of a new one is cheap enough to make replacement an inexpensive job.

Thanks Parrott of Doom - my new mount will be here any day. Hope to get to it next week.

Len

Just did my transmission mount today too. Reasonably easy job. Used pretty much the same procedure you did. I did not remove the big cross member that the mount is bolted to though. I only removed the flimsy sheet metal support that holds the rear of the transmission underbody panel.

My old mount did not show any obvious signs of wear or damage, but I'm glad I'm pretty much starting with all new rubber bits at 100,000 miles.

Len
'99 E300TD 99,800 miles

Its worth taking that bit of metal off, it collects water You're right, its nice to be sitting on new rubber.

Now I only have to think about the 200 other bits of old rubber that I should start replacing....