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  #1  
Old 11-27-2006, 01:46 PM
JEREMYC's Avatar
1983 300CD
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Missouri
Posts: 209
Helpful info on CV joint replacement

Hello all. I did some work to the 83 300CD this weekend. Just wanted to post my results so hopefully it may help someone else in need. I have certainly gained much valuable info from others on this board. You are all gentlemen!!!

I had the loud "thumpthumpthump" from the right rear of the car and I knew my cv shaft was bad. I tried the used shaft from the salvage yard here but when i got it out, it looked worse than mine. So I bit the bullet and went to AZ to pick up a remanned shaft. Upon inspection, it looked to be ok. I know some on here have strong opinions against them because of the questionable quality.

I learned a trick from an Indy shop friend of mine. First, make sure you can get the fill plug loose before removing the rear cover. Would be bad to remove cover and then not be able to fill it back up because of a stuck plug.

I jacked the car up, put jack stands under it, took the right rear wheel off and looesened the 13mm bolt that holds the cv shaft to the hub. I then removed the four bolts holding the carrier mount to the body and removed all of the rear cover bolts. I then removed the c-clip inside holding the cv shaft. I then placed the jack under the carrier so I could raise it up as high at it would go. By doing this, it allowed enough clearance for me to be able to just slip the cv shaft right out with little or no beating. I had to wiggle it out over the ebrake cable and under the brake line.

The new one went in just as easy. I placed one side of the shaft in the carrier and secured it there with the a NEW c-clip. I then pushed the other side as far up to the hub as I could get it. It was a tight fit and would not just go straight in. I then had my wife slowly turn the opposite rear wheel and because the shaft was already in the differential, it turned the shaft that was riding on the inside of the hub enough to where I just rolled it into place. I then wiggled it to get the splines to line up and pushed it the rest of the way in. I then secured it with the NEW 13mm bolt and tigtened it to 30 Nm. Did a quick clean up of the rear cover housing and inspected the mount. Put everything back in place and refilled the carrier with the correct amount of fluid. I took it for a drive and it sounded much better. No more thump thump thump.


I did notice while under the car that the two fuel lines running from the tank were soaked with diesel. Anyone know where I can get these at a bargain?

I hope this information helps others that need to change the cv shaft. It was a quick and easy job.

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2005 Accord Hybrid (Wifes)
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD (Snow car)
1984 GMC Sierra 1500 (Mine)
1983 300CD Best $ I ever spent. (Mine)
1984 190D (sold and glad I did)
1983 300D (sold and wished I hadn't)

Last edited by JEREMYC; 12-01-2006 at 11:58 AM. Reason: Title change request. Thank You
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2006, 02:12 PM
ImBroke's Avatar
Diesel way of Life
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Cleveland, NY
Posts: 2,222
That works for the right side. Left side is a little more tricky to get the axle shaft in. Did you put in a new seal while you had the axle out?
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  #3  
Old 11-27-2006, 02:16 PM
JEREMYC's Avatar
1983 300CD
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Missouri
Posts: 209
Yes I did replace that seal, forgot to add that. Why is the left side more tricky? It looked about the same to me. Is the C-clip on the left side harder to get out or is the whole shaft?
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2005 Accord Hybrid (Wifes)
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD (Snow car)
1984 GMC Sierra 1500 (Mine)
1983 300CD Best $ I ever spent. (Mine)
1984 190D (sold and glad I did)
1983 300D (sold and wished I hadn't)
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2006, 04:09 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Central Kentucky
Posts: 1,068
You don't want to know about fuel lines. I just replaced about half of the fuel supply line (tank to mid-body) on my '83 300D. MB has decided to stop stocking thos eguys in the US. Price went through the roof. I went to local auto parts place and bought 5 foot length of steel 5/16 fuel pipe, a length of 5/16 fuel hose and a box of clamps for said hose. Removed old fuel line and bent a new one as close as possible to original. Installed new line and joined old to new with hose and clamps. No leaks anymore. Whole project started because I had to replace the rubber hose on the return line where it connects to the tank. The fun part: you have to lower the rear subframe to get to all this piping. Considering the car is pretty much on its last legs, I'm surprised I didn't just call Bernard and tell him to come haul the car away. I'm gonna try for the 400K mark (391k now) but one big expense and this beast's history.
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Old 11-28-2006, 10:25 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: CA... No. of S.F.
Posts: 890
Great THREAD writeup on CV joint replacement...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEREMYC View Post
Hello all. I did some work to the 83 300CD this weekend. Just wanted to post my results so hopefully it may help someone else in need. I have certainly gained much valuable info from others on this board. You are all gentlemen!!!...
Jeremy,
I am being sincere when I say "Great Thread". I have only one suggestion. Go to your POST #1 that started this THREAD and see if you can EDIT the title such that it reads something like:

" Just wanted to give some helpful info on CV joint replacement "

I know the author of any POST can EDIT it but I have had trouble editing the title of the first POST that starts a THREAD. Anyone out there know how this can be done??
I see this as IMPORTANT because it helps future SEARCHes considerably when there is something specific about the subject in the TITLE line of the THREAD's first POST !!
Regards,
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2006, 09:28 PM
JEREMYC's Avatar
1983 300CD
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Missouri
Posts: 209
Title is changed, thanks for the heads up. Your right, it will make searches easier for the next guy/gal who needs the info. Thanks!

BTW, the rubber lines that are leaking on my car looks like can be changed with the kit DieselGiant carriers for less than $40.00. My metal lines look OK, just the rubber ones leaking. Thanks all.
__________________
2005 Accord Hybrid (Wifes)
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD (Snow car)
1984 GMC Sierra 1500 (Mine)
1983 300CD Best $ I ever spent. (Mine)
1984 190D (sold and glad I did)
1983 300D (sold and wished I hadn't)

Last edited by JEREMYC; 11-30-2006 at 09:28 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2006, 09:59 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
Rogue T Intolerant!!!
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,675
While we're having you edit, one more suggestion. In your first post, you should remind to first make sure you can loosen the fill and drain plugs on the diff. cover. Wouldn't want to take it apart until you are sure you can refill it.
Any pics to add to your fine write up?
I am also curious why the left side is more difficult.....
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'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2006, 05:36 AM
ImBroke's Avatar
Diesel way of Life
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Cleveland, NY
Posts: 2,222
On mine,, and this is only on mine,, I took off the shock mount, brake caliper, and everything else, and could not get the suspension down enough to get the axle in. I thought this was strange since I had gotten the old axle out. Had to take the bobcat and push down on the suspension to get it in. Maybe the new axle was tighter and thus wouldn't bend enough?

Like I said though, this was only my one experience. I do believe I've heard the same type of rambling on here elsewhere.
Definitely had to use the big prybar and foot method of removing the seals. I still hear a noise from the left rear, so I believe I need a wheel bearing. Darn, should have done that while I had it apart.

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