617 Valve adj. Have you got better ideas?
 

I am doing my fourth valve adjustment on the 300TD, since buying in 2 years ago.. two questions:

Is there any way to get the valve cover off with out peeling the valve cover gasket off at the same time??

how do you turn the engine over? I am using a 1 1/16 socket on a 3 inch extention, but I end up having to be on the ground under the radiator to get my hand in there, and this car does not even have a fan shroud... What do you do that works better than my present plan?

Well, for starters, instead of that rachet, try a longer 22mm open end wrench. Use a pipe if you have to.

I would guess no on the gasket. I turned the engine over by turning the power steering pump. People will tell you this will cause problems if you ever need to get the pulley off because the pump has a tapered shaft on it and this will over tighten it. I don't feel I tightened it all that much more though and it sure made turning the engine over easy.

1. use a remote starter on the distribution block on the right fender to jump power to the starter to bump it between valves

or

2. Use a 22mm wrench on the nut on the power steering pulley nut if your belts are good that is...

I usually replace the gasket @ valve adjustments. They are cheap. You could try putting high temp grease or anti-seize paste around the contact points on the gasket. Someone else please chime in if this isn't a good idea. When you do your valves, are they very far from spec? Twice a year seems like overkill to me.

It was overkill, as they were all ok.. But it had been 15,000, and winter is gonna hit here sometime.. then I need all the systems up to snuff..

I like the idea of the PS belt.. will do that next time....

thanks,
J

I heard someone express concern about possibly over tightening the PS pump pulley bolt by using it to turn over the engine, as well as hearing concern about possibly breaking the PS tension adjustment bolt.

Those being mentioned though, I ended up using the PS pump bolt to do my valve adjustment.
The only thing I'm really concerned about is that I may have tightned the bolt further than smart, but that will be a problem next time I have to pull the pulley, so I'm not worrying much about it at this point in time.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/161630-w123-adjusting-valves-easy-way-advise-mercedes-master-apprentice.html?highlight=valve+adjustment+dave+apprentice

I use the power steering pump bolt to turn the engine. slow and steady pressure to turn it not a large amount of force all at once.

Dave

valves
 

The gasket can be the biggest problem, I use a new one, need it or not. I was considering attaching it to the cover with goop of some kind. I also use a remote, or "bump" starter affair, available at most local auto part stores. Makes things eaiser. When changing "V" belts, the starter comes in handy as well, eye hand coordination is helpful.

I have a remote starter switch, it works great.
in years past, I have installed all my gaskets by gluing them to the valve cover and putting a very thin layer of wheel bearing grease on the motor side of the gasket. it has worked for me. then again, I have never changed the valve cover gasket on a MB diesel yet... so I guess it's worth a try, but like has been said, the gasket is pretty cheap. I never really did it to try and preserve the gasket, it just makes it easier to clean the gasket off the VC(or the Water pump, etc...)
, rather than the head.
John

I use the fan to turn mine over. Both have solid mounted 240D fans.

Remote starter is maybe $15...

A VC gasket should be no more than $6.

27mm deep socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet on the crank bolt.

Agreed.

Mine is a stick and all I do is jack up a rear wheel and turn it by hand with the car in fourth gear.

Len

Can you reach the crank bolt from the top of the engine room? I am constantly up and down, because I have not figured out how to get around the fan, between the radiator..

I've only done one adjustement so far on my 240D. I used the power steering pully method. I also replaced the gasket with a new one from Phil at fastlane. Dont see why you'd need any goop on the gasket. Just make sure the head is clean where the gasket will go and torque the bolts to the right spec. Mine has no leaks at all.

- Peter.

The remote starter switch is so much easier and that is what it says to do in the service manual. They even put that terminal block right up top on the inner fender to hook the remote starter switch to. When I did my first valve adjustment, I thought to myself "now this is good design".

Mine is a stick and I do something similar to Len. I put the car in 4th or 3rd and pull it towards me while watching the cam. Works fine, takes about 8 feet to do all the valves and then check them. If the driveway is paticularly full I will push the car back, out of gear, and then continue pulling forward, resuming the job where I left off. Jim

this method works fine for those of you with a stick, like what 10 of you? the remote starter, or pliers shorted accross the terminal block will work for ALL of you.
John
and the goop on the gasket should make it easier to remove without damaging the gasket.

As per the FSM, i use a remote starter. i am cheap, so i built one.

2 large aligator clamps.
at least 3' of wire, more if you want to use it on other cars.
a push button switch.

all i had to buy was a switch, as i couldn't find one laying around(untill after i buit it, of course). so cost was $5.

works really well. i was suprised that at the time, no one else, that i found ,had posted this.

I've also used the remote starter method, but prefer the turning the rear wheel. I'm even cheaper than you!!! I didn't even use a switch. I just touched the ends of the alligator clips together to jog the engine.

Len