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#31
12-02-2006, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles  
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#32
12-02-2006, 10:40 PM
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normal op temp is 80. that is 40 degrees faranheit lower. this temp is indicative of something wrong in the cooling system. if you are lucky maybe it has the wrong t stat, or a bad guage. otherwise it is a problem.
it can be many things, plugged rad , bad water pump,or other things. if you could give us more info we may be able to help you isolate the problem. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.  [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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#33
12-02-2006, 10:47 PM
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there are several reasons why 110C is bad. first off, we are familiar with this motor, and they do not normally run this high a fever. second, a diesel as opposed to a gasser motor has MUCH higher stress on the components. thirdly, gassers may operate successfully at high temps with out failure... but not for long.
ok, so 110C should be somewhere around 240F That's quite a bit above "boiling over" unless you take into consideration the 15psi pressure in the cap, so think of that before you dismiss 110C John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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#34
12-02-2006, 11:02 PM
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Hi Temps
I have been mildly concerned over the temp, more so after reading some of the threads on here.
Just this past week I pulled the thermostat to replace it as a matter of course, but found it was stamped 176F  . =80C!! So instead of installing the new 185F unit, I drilled a couple of holes in the 176'er- Ala DieselGiant style, and put it back in. I haven't driven it yet, but maybe that'll help. While I was drilling and retapping the bolt I broke off, I noticed the radiator had large flattened areas on the engine side. Apparently the fan has contacted the radiator in the car's previous life. So I'm thinking I need to get a fin comb and try to repair that issue. It's a OEM style Behr radiator. I've heard where other brands cause overheating issues. Does this line of thinking sound correct? 
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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles
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#35
12-03-2006, 06:38 AM
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the comb sounds good.
i wouldn't drill the tstat though. that will not make it run cooler according to the fsm. and i agree. the fins may be your problem. if they are flattened over the air wont pass thru. tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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#36
12-03-2006, 08:03 AM
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I agree, the 80 C thermostat should be fine without any modification. The bent fins could definitely have an effect. I would straighten the fins and see what happens.
My 300D runs a little warm, around 95 - 100 C on warm days. It has the original radiator, so I will probably just replace the radiator, all the hoses, and water pump (about 200K miles) in the spring. It still cools "OK" but I think it's due.
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#37
12-11-2006, 07:59 AM
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question: my radiator fan, on the 1982 300sd doesnt seem to work. it is impossible to spin by hand, i.e., it is rock solid and in place when the car is stopped, and i try to move it. does this mean its seized up, and needs a new clutch, or perhaps the whole thing needs to be replaced?
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1982 300sd, 230,000 miles, svo/wvo conversion... yellow http://www.jaymoschella.com
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#38
12-11-2006, 10:18 PM
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It needs a new clutch. You should be able to turn it by had with some resistance.
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#39
12-15-2006, 11:10 PM
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Ok so what is the benefit to a clutch fan over a standard mechanical fan that turns at all times? Is there a problem getting the motor up to temp that way? I run a high compression race motor and have a 6 blade alum fan that turns at all times. Heat was always a problem with that motor until I went with this unit. Any thoughts?
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1996 E300 D 1992 300D 1990 Ford E-350 7.3 Diesel AKA "the Deep Fryer"
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#40
12-15-2006, 11:15 PM
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A direct drive fan uses a few horsepower. Also may shorten the life of the water pump relative to a clutched fan.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE
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#43
08-04-2010, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#44
08-04-2010, 09:04 PM
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Is this your electric fan in front of the radiator or the mechanical one behind the radiator?
Don
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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"  97 E300D 157000 miles 87 300TD ?141k? miles
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