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Should I align at the dealer?
1985 W123 300D Turbo, 'bout 215K. I got a quote from the dealer for an alignment for 180 dollars, and thats if they DO NOT have to touch the camber. The guy said that they need to order camber bolts to change the camber?? Is this right? Is this how it is with all cars if you need to change the camber? I had heard of this, but only with cars that have been lowered by 1 or 2 inches or more.
So basically he didn't give me a straight answer on how much it costs if they had to order camber bolts but it sounds pretty elaborate. Which I do not mind, as long as it gets done right. I had the alignment checked at an independent Mercedes guy, Autokraft if anyone is in the Santa Rosa area (i know a few are). It was 70 bucks and he said it was fine, only a small adjustment was needed. But 6 months/15K miles later my front tires have worn down to the wear bars on the inside edge. That's what leads me to believe it's a camber issue. The car kind of looks bowlegged (front tires pointing inwards) to me but it may be my eyes. How much neg. camber do these run from the factory?The rears are wearing perfectly fine and normally. I'm not sure how these cars are supposed to handle, but I get pretty horrible understeer and front tire squeelage in spirited (not insane) driving. I have no clunks in the suspension and everything is tight. But i do have a creaking noise when I go over speedbumps (im guessing balljoints). It pulls slightly to the right, but it seems all cars do. The steering is extremely tight, basically no play at all, i think the previous owner replaced the tie rods. The lower control arm bushings look pretty old and crappy (cracks) and such so I figure I will sort this out before spending 200+ dollars on an alignment. I've had this car for about 4 years and aside from shocks and sway bar bushings/links I haven't touched the suspension, I think it's time to spend some money on it. But what leads me to believe it might be fixed with a simple alignment is that the front tires are worn exactly equally. What are the chances all the front suspension components are wearing exactly the same?
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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi |
#2
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Check your ball joints, tierod ends, pitman arm joint and idler arm for looseness, slack, and bends. Replace any of these that are worn before you spend money on an alignment. I recommend you do the alignment at the dealership but if you take it there and they find a bad ball joint for example, they will say they can't align it and bill you $60 for checking it. The camber can also be affected by improper weight distribution and worn out springs. I had the same issue with my rear tires when I had an extra 16gallon fuel tank in my trunk (250lbs). The inside edge was wearing at a noticeable rate whereas the outsides looked new. Removing the tank and replacing my shocks solved all the wear issues. |
#3
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Everything is tight, I couldn't feel any play in suprisingly, anything really. Ride height is above average. I think I will do the balljoints on account of the creaking, and the crappy control arm bushings.
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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi |
#4
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$180 + is too much for me for alignment. I bring my cars to Ford (just happens to be) dealership that has computerized laser alignment machines. The machine has specs of many cars including MB programmed into it.
The mechanic operating it is an older fella who has been at it for years and always gets it right. They charge $49.99.
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#5
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Yesterday the MB dealership quoted me $99.00 for an alignment.
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JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
#6
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If a shop doesn't have the Mercedes "tools" to lock the steering wheel and the spreader bar, then your alignments are likely not going to be perfect. They might be okay, but then again, they might not.
I have not found a shop other than a dealer to get mine done right. Dealer cost is $119. $180 seems WAY out of line. Len |
#7
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180$ without touching the camber... im getting 125$ without touching the excentric bolts (same thing maybe??)
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#8
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My dealer charged me $120 for a full alignment. I don't know what yours is thinking.
Now for a little personal story. Before I had mine done at the dealer, I took it to Belle Tire. I asked about the wheel lock and spreader bar, and they assured me they had them and could do the alignment per Mercedes Specs. Forward one month. My new (2 miles on them when the alignment was done) were wearing excessively. I took the car back, screamed at them, they refunded my money and re-did the alignment. I rotated my tires to have the better ones on the front (winter snow at the time), week later they were wearing excessively. Then I took it to the dealer and its been great ever since. Made the biggest difference in the world with handling. The same shop put the upper strut bushings on upside down on my Volvo (my father took it there against my wishes), and refused to fix it unless I payed more money.
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Adam Lumsden (83) 300D Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section |
#9
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I paid $100 for my last dealer alignment. $180 is way too much. Shop around and get a better price somewhere else, then call back the $180 dealer and tell them you are going to be traveling to where ever you got the better quote and will get the alignment there unless the $180 place is willing to match their price. If they say no then never go back - period. $180 is just way too much (I needed to say it again).
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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg Peach Parts W124.128 User Group. 80 280SL 85 300SD 87 300TD 92 300D 2.5 Turbo 92 300TE 4Matic |
#10
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As I recall, I paid under $100 (maybe around $80) at an independent alignment shop recommended by my MB indy with good results (good handling, even tire wear).
Your description of handling, "I get pretty horrible understeer and front tire squeelage in spirited (not insane) driving. .... It pulls slightly to the right, but it seems all cars do." does not sound normal for a 300D. It shouldn't squeal under any kind of reasonable conditions, and it should not pull noticeably. Mine will track straight without touching the wheel on a reasonably flat highway. |
#11
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#12
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I had mine done 11 months ago at the dealer and it cost about $129 and its been perfect.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#13
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#14
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The squeeling could be the tires, though my father's Accord has the same exact ones and no squeeling whatsoever. Then again he has a 5 year old suspension.
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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi |
#15
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So what exactly is that Control Arm bushing kit at fastlane? There is Control Arm bushings (inner and outer) then the kit. I think i'm going to find a shop to do this, I'd rather it be someone with a spring compressor + knows what he's doing.
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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi |
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