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  #1  
Old 12-04-2006, 04:04 PM
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'87 300SDL...leaky injectors

I've got some fuel leaking at what looks to be the base of several injectors. Return lines not leaking and injector nozzles are tight. Injector connection to engine different on this '87 300SDL than on earlier 300SD as connectors to engine appear to be multi sided serated nuts plus hold down clamps.

Any body shed any light on this injector attachment system and how I should proceed? thanks,

wjob

'80 300SD
'82 300D
'86 300SDL
'87 300SDL

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  #2  
Old 12-04-2006, 04:28 PM
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The actual injectors or from the fittings coming off of the injection pump? Mine was the latter. New delivery valve o rings will do the job.
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2006, 04:56 PM
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The most likely culprit in the area you describe are the return lines. The other possibilites are the injector body (very rare) or the fitting where the hard line connects to the injector (also rare but not impossible).

You'll need to get out the TP and thoroughly dry the area and then seek out the exact source of the leak.
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Old 12-04-2006, 05:33 PM
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300SDL...leaky injectors

Brian, what's the TP? thanks
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2006, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjob View Post
Brian, what's the TP? thanks
.............toilet paper...........
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  #6  
Old 12-04-2006, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbodeezl View Post
The actual injectors or from the fittings coming off of the injection pump? Mine was the latter. New delivery valve o rings will do the job.
I had this problem too.

I'm pretty suspicious of ULSD to be quite honest.
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  #7  
Old 12-04-2006, 06:59 PM
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wHunter's list of DIY on IP delivery nozzle repair
For some reason clicking on the Wikka by jbach36 leaves this message:
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Leaking Diesel Pump
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Last edited by whunter; 07-14-2007 at 03:47 PM.
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  #8  
Old 12-04-2006, 08:55 PM
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I'll bet its the return hoses! I fought this for 2 weeks on one injector. I finally replaced the hoses with MB light brown return hose and leak fixed. I've also seen nicks/scratches on the nipple of the injector caused by box cutters or razor blades cutting thru the old hose during replacement. I've had good luck using emery cloth on the nipple to smooth it out. Some guys swear by rubber fuel hose but I have never tried it. Do a "search" for injector leak on the forum.
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  #9  
Old 12-04-2006, 11:09 PM
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Replace the return lines, then clean the top of the engine with Gunk or Simple Green. 90% chance its the return lines.
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2006, 12:45 AM
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leaky inj pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldiehard View Post
Bill Hunter's list of DIY on IP delivery nozzle repair
For some reason clicking on the Wikka by jbach36 leaves this message:
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Leaking Diesel Pump


Click on the line "view coding for this page" and the DIY info will come up.
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  #11  
Old 12-05-2006, 01:06 AM
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Phil has the OEM style injector lines on this site.

I have the viton tubing return lines on my website, www.fryerpower.com.

I went with viton since it can handle ULSD, WVO, or Biodiesel.

The OEM style lines should be good for ULSD. They may need to be replaced more often, but they will work fine.

-Jim
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  #12  
Old 12-05-2006, 01:25 PM
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'87 300SDL...leaky injectors

Correction! Correction! My leak is at the base of the injection pump nozzles, not those on the engine.

So, how should I proceed and if I do need to remove injectors at IP how should I proceed? Nozzles are tight so leak is at bottom of injector where it goes into pump. Injector connectors to IP appear to be multi sided serated nuts plus hold down clamps. How do I remove?

Also you will see from my post 11-13-06 under thread, '87 300 SDL...no power, that that is still my main problem and that in the course of solving it I saw this IP fuel leak. Could this leak from what appears to be at least two injectors be my power problem? I also have a leaky main return hose from the spin on filter gong back (about 15 inches) to the metal line to the tank. Planning to replace it with rubber fuel line rather than braided type from MB? Also may use biodiesel in future so rubber and/or braided may not be best choice?

Since my last post on the power problem I have by passed the overload switch and temporairly inserted a pressure gauge and my boost pressure on the road, pedal to the metal, is only about 3/4 pounds. With this by pass, it helps power problem a little bit (very little) so guess this tells me to flush out overload switch before I reconnect.

Next steps I'm Planning: Repair leaky IP injectors and leaky return line; then run on separate fuel supply to eliminate a supply problem (assume for this test that I can leave return go back to my regular tank?); then run diesel cleaner through spin on filter to clean out any possible junk in IP; then discoonect and plug vacum line going to EGR; then, if necessary remove plug in exhaust manifold to see if my problem is in the exhaust; then if still a problem start dissasembing turbo.

Thoughts and suggestions please!

wjob

'80 300SD
'82 300D
'86 300SDL
'87 300SDL
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2006, 01:39 PM
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Like I said, fuel is leaking from the injection pump nozzles , meaning you need new delivery valve o rings. If you do not have the special socket you can use one of the hold down clamps on each nozzle and carefully tap it until the nozzle loosens enough to turn the clamp by hand. Be very careful to pull the nozzle straight up as there is a free sitting spring which the nozzle sits over.
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  #14  
Old 12-05-2006, 01:51 PM
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That's a great idea I've been trying to find the socket. Have you tightened the valves back with this method. By the way I'm in the middle of doing this now and have another post asking for advice regarding the injectors which are stuck.
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  #15  
Old 12-05-2006, 02:26 PM
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'87 300SDL...leaky injectors

-Since I may go to biodiesel sometime what o ring material should I buy? -
-How many orings for each nozzle?
-Would this leak be a cause of my low power problem?
-Where can I get the special socket?
-Assume I slightly losen the clamp before taping on it?
-When putting the nozzles back in without the special socket assume I just take up finger tight (is that tight enough or should I use little pressure with lock pliers?) and then tightly fasten the hold down clamps?
-Anybody have a cutway of the IP and IP nozzles?
-If I find the socket anybody know the proper torque setting?

thanks

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