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  #1  
Old 12-04-2006, 05:22 PM
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Delivery valve seal replacement...no real surprises except how tight they were!

As the title to this post stated, getting the old delvery valves apart was tough...those suckers were on there tight...a lot tighter than the 35NM of torque the spec calls for. I'd bet 4-5 times that torque was needed to break them free. I can't believe they could have gotten that tight just from seizing over time, I suspect they were replaced at some time by someone with a mighty strong arm...anyone else experience this?

While I was in there I did the shut-off o-ring and all of the lines too...and the dealer called to tell me my new motor mounts came in so I put them in as well.

A good day of wrenching sure beats a day of real work!

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Last edited by nhdoc; 12-04-2006 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 12-04-2006, 05:26 PM
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Did you have leaks or nailing?
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Old 12-04-2006, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
Did you have leaks or nailing?

Leaks, only since ULSD came out about a month ago.
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2013 Lincoln MKz
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Old 12-04-2006, 07:26 PM
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Same here. I had to use a breaker bar to loosen mine. Did you also get more nailing like I did after changing the seals?
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2006, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselAddict View Post
Same here. I had to use a breaker bar to loosen mine. Did you also get more nailing like I did after changing the seals?

I almost always had some at idle, I just accepted it...can't say it is worse yet though cause I barely drove it since I put it all back together. I still have to blow out the air bubbles and I also used some lithium grease to hold the springs up in the valve bodies during assembly, so all that crud has to burn through too...but it does run at least as well as it did before.
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Old 12-05-2006, 08:47 PM
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Mine were in there pretty tight - I'd estimate maybe 50 Nm to break them free. Since the ULSD switch they have all starting leaking since the O-ring were most likely original.

How did engine mount upgrade go? I've seen a few post about being able to get them from the top with the help of a pair of wobble joint socket extensions. Any help with the engine knocking below 1500 rpm?

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