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  #16  
Old 12-06-2006, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinperkins View Post
I know what you mean, but if there is a 60-second time difference between when your oil level is unsafely low and when you actually notice that (baring you don't look at the pressure gauge), you are hosed.

I'm just saying that whole delay mechanism is like down at Mercedes when they were testing the 603 this is what happened: "Oh crap, every time we take this new car out for a test drive and hang a left, the oil warning light comes on. Uhhh, let's put a delay on the light, yeah, that'll fix it!".

That's what I would call a poor development decision.
The low oil level warning light is not warning you of dangerously low oil level...it goes on as soon as the level drops below the "add" line of the dipstick; hardly dangerous but just a reminder to add a quart. The delay is built in because oil does slosh around and getting an accurate read of the level in a moving car is darn near impossible. They figure if the level remains low for a period of time...like 30-60 seconds then it really is low, not just sloshing or due to an incline. You'd need to be a couple of quarts lower than add before the pump would start sucking air and causing low oil pressure. That would be the dangerous level, but by then the light would have been on for some time assuming you didn't have some catastrophic leak!

Mine went on the other day in my '87 560SL and I figured *()&()&*^&% stupid sensor circuit must be going out...little did I know it was because the oil level was just at the "add" mark...sometimes those engineers know a thing or two. Added a quart and no more light.

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  #17  
Old 12-06-2006, 08:49 PM
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Talking YAY... I did not get comepletely shot down...

Thanks Hatterasguy for agreeing with what I said. My SDL did not come with that nice Delvac sticker so I did the rotella and have been very happy. Can you shoot me some pix of your interior some time cause I have never seen a factory US W126 with cloth interior. That would be a unique thing to see.

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Aaron
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2006, 12:31 PM
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Why only 7 quarts?

Okay, now I'm baffled. When I changed the oil on my '87 300D, hot, on level ground, and level at the max mark, all that drained out was 6 1/2 to 7 quarts max, and the same amount back in to get it back to the max mark. Receipt in glovebox from PO listed the same amount at a service visit, 6 1/2 quarts.

Few days ago, MB dealer did an oil change during a service visit, they poured in 8 quarts, and it put the level 2 inches above the max mark on the dipstick! They had to drain it back down.

Mine does have the side extension on the oil pan, and the original black handle oil dipstick.

Any idea what would reduce oil capacity this much?

Would the oil pan from a 602, which has a quart less capacity, fit on a 603, and sometime in the past someone screwed up and put the wrong bloody oil pan on the beast?
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'87 300D 212K miles
'87 300D 151K miles - R.I.P. 12/08
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2006, 01:23 PM
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If you have the 60x engine with the expansion add-on to the pan, then you should hold 8 qts. I believe.

Are you sure you let the oil filter fill up all the way? Maybe you don't have an oil cooler (I thought all 60x engines did)?

I believe you want to be checking the oil when cold, not hot.
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Last edited by justinperkins; 12-17-2006 at 01:26 PM. Reason: read above post clearer
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2006, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retmil46 View Post
Okay, now I'm baffled. When I changed the oil on my '87 300D, hot, on level ground, and level at the max mark, all that drained out was 6 1/2 to 7 quarts max, and the same amount back in to get it back to the max mark. Receipt in glovebox from PO listed the same amount at a service visit, 6 1/2 quarts.

Few days ago, MB dealer did an oil change during a service visit, they poured in 8 quarts, and it put the level 2 inches above the max mark on the dipstick! They had to drain it back down.

Mine does have the side extension on the oil pan, and the original black handle oil dipstick.

Any idea what would reduce oil capacity this much?

Would the oil pan from a 602, which has a quart less capacity, fit on a 603, and sometime in the past someone screwed up and put the wrong bloody oil pan on the beast?
Funny.

In my 603's they seem to require no less than 8 quarts. I drain them red hot, clean up the mess in the filter housing, put the plug back in with new crush washer. They ALWAYS take 8 quarts. This puts the level on the dipstick around 3/4's within the "safe" range. Oil is checked hot (after engine has been run and oil pressure is built up). Never cold. Anything below 8 quarts and the lifters start tapping away.
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  #21  
Old 12-17-2006, 03:15 PM
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Leaky check Valve/Sloppy Oil Pump?

Could a bad check valve or sloppy oil pump be allowing oil to drain back to the sump on shutdown, that isn't supposed to drain back, giving a higher than normal oil level when shut down?

Every time I start the beast, it takes 2 or 3 seconds for the oil pressure gauge to respond, before it swings up to full pressure.

When I changed the oil and the filter myself, the oil filter housing was bone dry, all oil had drained back to the sump.

Is this out of the ordinary, or normal?
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Just say "NO" to Ethanol - Drive Diesel

Mitchell Oates
Mooresville, NC
'87 300D 212K miles
'87 300D 151K miles - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD 67K miles
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2006, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retmil46 View Post
Could a bad check valve or sloppy oil pump be allowing oil to drain back to the sump on shutdown, that isn't supposed to drain back, giving a higher than normal oil level when shut down?

Every time I start the beast, it takes 2 or 3 seconds for the oil pressure gauge to respond, before it swings up to full pressure.

When I changed the oil and the filter myself, the oil filter housing was bone dry, all oil had drained back to the sump.

Is this out of the ordinary, or normal?
As soon as you pull the top on the oil filter housing, the oil immediately drains into the oil pan.
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  #23  
Old 12-17-2006, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinperkins View Post
Is that a recommendation to switch to synthetic I hear?
yes it is! your lifters and engine will thank you. I have mobil 1 5w40 in my 603. Dont worry about leaks...because they dont happen when you switch to synthetic. If you cant find mobil 1 5w40 shell rotella 5w40 synthetic is another option which is a pretty good synthetic and is available at walmart cheap. I have the rotella in my 300SD right now and it seems to perform better on it then it did on chevron delo 400 15w40.
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  #24  
Old 12-17-2006, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by greasybenz View Post
yes it is! your lifters and engine will thank you. I have mobil 1 5w40 in my 603. Dont worry about leaks...because they dont happen when you switch to synthetic. If you cant find mobil 1 5w40 shell rotella 5w40 synthetic is another option which is a pretty good synthetic and is available at walmart cheap. I have the rotella in my 300SD right now and it seems to perform better on it then it did on chevron delo 400 15w40.
Thanks for the words of encouragement Ruben, I've decided to switch to synthetic. I'm going with Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 because that's what I've already got on hand and am using in my other vehicles.

I've got a new filter kit on order from DieselGiant, a new oil level sensor, a new oil pressure sensor and a few other goodies for that weekend job
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  #25  
Old 12-17-2006, 10:41 PM
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My light flashes on when turning hard lefts. I live at the top of a left then right S curve. Comes on everytime when making the sweeping left turn But never on the right turn. I just got used to it. My pressure is pegged as well. Oh Rotella for me by the way

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