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#31
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i would use metal wherever it was used by the factory. not out of worship. metal is better because it wont sag between support points. i wouldnt hesitate to use steel from napa though. rubber from napa...not. the rubber from places like that is not 1/10th as good as the rubber from mercedes.
just my experience. btw. all cars use mostly metal fuel and brake lines. it is better and cheaper. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#32
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Quote:
The hoses we use here at work for our fluid power handle 2500psi easily, and will cycle a few hundered thousand times before needing replacement. Not so much with the Hardlines - I've seen a few last a couple of thousand parts - not so great. PITA to replace, as I have to cut and flare the tubing and the rubber mounts.... Hosing is perfectly acceptable for fuel lines.
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#33
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Rubber is damaged easier by sharp objects under the car while driving....I would think thats the only advantage to steel lines (aluminum lines probably aren't that puncture resistant either...)
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#34
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Quote:
I'm constently replacing all the bent tubing (at work) with hosing due to cracking/pinholes in the bends. Tubing bought from a fluid power specialist (Think PARKER stores) will be more than good enough to go under a car. Be sure to ask for someting petrol rated and thell the what temps your working with. We use 2-wire (good to 3500psi) hosing at work. The only way it fails is dues to: Wear caused by the tubing flapping around - it's not hung/straped down from the powersupply to the machines, Rubbing lines to line causes a far bit of wear; And It's always the end that fails - A swaged end is a common leak point.
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#35
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Data
The fuel lines under the body are steel to resist road junk impact.
Rubber hose will droop between clips and cut. Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#36
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We already have a 20 foot roll of 5/16" steel fuel line, it was only $17 at autozone and was made by a local company, which is even better!
Our fuel line is from Muskegon, MI Our Brake lines are from Switzerland Our Rubber fuel line is from Germany And our fuel hose clamps are from Sweden Quite the assortment!
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#37
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I replaced the entire front half of the fuels lines on the 126 - all the way to below the drivers door. The HighPressure line (on a gasser...) does require the proper hardline which is easy to replace as theirs a union right under the drivers side door area. I figured this out after trying to powerbleed my brakes. The line to the back was completely rusted throu.
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#38
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Volvo now used 90% copper, 10% zinc (I believe) brake lines. You can't use 100% copper because they aren't strong enough.
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#39
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Well....we're finished! We finally rolled the car out of the garage and test drove it, drives as great as it always has! 35+ days it sat in the garage for this project....it seems to like to retreat into the garage every December
We went with steel fuel lines from the engine compartment up to the back of the car where they go up underneath, we cut them there, and put rubber lines up over the subframe to save our sanity (bending that stuff is a nightmare) Then we made two relatively short metal pieces to go from where the rubber lines came out at the top, to over and above the differential to the tank hoses. In the meantime, we had to bend the brake line as best as we could alll the way from the master cylinder to the rear distributor....we did it, it may not be perfect but it works fine, and no leaks. Plus I replaced the line that goes from the distributor to the right rear wheel, and the right rear rubber brake hose. (The left was replaced during the summer) I then pulled the fuel strainer from the tank finally with a 1 and 13/16" socket that we HAND SAWED to make it half as deep so it would fit up in there with a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter. It just barely fit (thankfully) and it easily removed the tank screen, which wasn't even plugged or dirty. So I put that back in with a new o-ring, mounted the two new tank hoses, and hooked all that up. I then changed the short fuel line in the engine compartment as well as the pre-filter. From there I fired up the power bleeder, bled the rear brakes, and then cleaned up and drove it out of the garage. No leaks whatsoever! Plus, any remote signs of rust underneath were treated and coated. We then drove it around/bought some fuel, came back, and I did the oil change. So it is ALL set to go now. Now the garage is empty and I can actually do my valve adjustment sometime soon in there. Yet another epic project completed! Total cost was less than $200 overall. Dealer was going to charge us (at least) five hours of labor @ $95 an hour + all parts. So it'd have been probably close to, or above, $1000. At least it was cheaper than the sway bar project....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#40
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your experience is with very high pressure lines. it is not necessarily translatable to cars.
thanks for contributing. tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#41
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Yeah this project sucks, did it on the SDL a few years ago. Finally everything under that car is new so I won't have to work under it for another 10 years hopefully!
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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