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#1
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Voltage Regulator
Here's a couple of pictures of my voltage regulator mod. I dont think 14 volts is enough to proporly charge a battery especially when it's cold so I decided to use a ford regulator in place of the factory bosch.
It charges at 15.2 volts at idle. |
#2
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I would like to see a pic of them side by side if you have them handy.....
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#3
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Would this modification have the same benefit of upgrading to a higher amp alternator?
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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/ 1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing 1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake. Both on single tank WVO blend |
#4
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Actually, it is current that charges the battery not the voltage. Unless you are doing a lot of short trips when it's cold, the original regulator shouldn't be giving you a problem. I've seen more of a problem with bad connections causing poor recharging than anything else.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#5
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Quote:
Remember the old wives tale about charging a battery on a concrete floor? It's hard to get a battery up to temp on a giant heat sink. If it's only current that charges a battery try charging a 12v battery on a 6 volt setting. Those of you with old battery chargers will even have a high amp 6v setting. It's not hard to exceed the current output of our alternators and this mod is never going to change that. But when your driving with only a few accessories on the battery has a much better chance of getting fully charged. |
#6
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Hmmm.......
I believe it is due to the higher amp rating of newer alternators. It would not be a good idea to install a 24 volt regulator on these cars to speed up the charging.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#7
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Here are a couple of pics to show my ****ty wiring job.
There are three wires at the old voltage reg. 1 wire goes to each brush and the 3rd goes to ground. All you need the old regulator for is the brushes. The new regulator (from an old ford pickup maybe) has 4 wires labeled I A F S. A goes to battery pos. F goes to one of the brushes. S goes to power from the key. I goes to nothing. At this point you will have 2 wires remaining coming from the alternator. Combine these and attach to the case of the new voltage regulator. One of them is from one of the brushes and the other is from ground. |
#8
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Quote:
Even if the alternator in our cars could put out 150 amps and the max voltage output was regulated to 14v you would not fully charge that battery in cold weather. But you could run more accessories and not drop below 14v which would be nice. |
#9
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Omegaman is correct. Even my '89 Nissan PU alternator puts out more voltage when it is cold outside vs hot. Typically, anything over 16 volts will boil your battery, and less that 14v will not charge it completely. Amps allows more accesories to run while still applying charging current to the battery.
Run your accesories and rear defogger and see what happens to the headlights, ventilation fan, etc. The less accessories running, gives higher fan speed, brighter lights, etc. IF MB gave us 110 amp alternators, we would not see the drop in power as accessories are turned on.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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Quote:
"rear ended harder that elton john" LMAO! |
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Thanks, I'll be here all week........
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#12
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Just use this. the voltage is adjustable. Works fine (I've used several), but I recommend a little silicone seal over the adjustment screw as water ingress was a problem in early attempt.
http://www.transpo.de/Catalog/E_Cat.htm Go to >browse catalog>regulator>bosch>IB372A or IB373A Direct link will not work on the site, so you have to get there by "hand". FWIW The Volvo guys use this or a diode soldered in the regulator, as a resistor, to increase voltage output from the alt.
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
#13
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
#14
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Hmmm.............
Power formulas don't lie and have been proved over and over again........ as long as I have been in electronics (35yrs)............
P = I X E or P = I (squared) X R According to formula, which gives you the most power?....... raising the voltage by 2 volts? or the amperage by 10, 20 or 50?
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#15
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You want to really make sure the battery is maintained correctly? Install one of these: http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/107/p/1/pt/7/product.asp Thats a fairly basic marine unit but it is way better than any internal regulator. Of course you would have to be a bit nuts to want one of these on your MB. Or have more electronics installed than mission control..... RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
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