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  #16  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:22 PM
Geeeeenious
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Salem, Oregon (AKA: Methville)
Posts: 20
Hot idle is usually right around 2. If it's a little low it will be just under 2 when I first get off of the freeway. Otherwise it tries to take the limiting pin off the top of the gauge.

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1981 MB 240D - 280K miles (My Iraqi LAPC )



My stable also includes:
2003 Honda Odyssey - Wife's van
1976 IH Scout 2 - SUV recovery vehicle
1967 Dodge W200 - The big block hauler (440/4sp.)
1966 Dodge D100 - The Redneck Racecar (440/727)
1925 Dodge Roadster - My electric car canidate

True health starts here
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  #17  
Old 12-28-2006, 11:54 PM
Mercedes is in my blood..
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 348
Scouts are the BEST!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkid View Post
Sounds like your using way too much oil. Make sure you're consistant with when you're checking it though (either 15 min. after you shut it off after reaching operating temp. or before you start it in the morning) I check mine cold but I think the preferred method is warm. I forget, but mine burns about 1 qt. per 1000 miles or so, maybe not quite that good. Or you could just drive the Scout. Scout's are cool.
More than cool my son....they ROCK!
Wish I still had mine...one of these days I'll help my buddy rebuild his diesel IH Scout with an MB engine. Ultimate combo.

John
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John Hughes, was in Landstuhl, Germany but currently in San Antonio, TX


1978 280CE Astral Silver now 59,xxx miles and counting "Silber-Kugel"
1986 300E Black Pearl Metallic 143,xxx miles 5-spd daily driver w/ blk leather "Schwarz-Schönheit"
1989 190E 2.6 (euro) 5-spd Desert Taupe 112,xxx kms Had to leave behind in Germany!!! "Helga"
1983 300D Pastel Beige now 312,xxx + miles SOLD

OBK#24
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  #18  
Old 12-29-2006, 12:05 AM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: central ky
Posts: 3,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyle E. Coyote View Post
Hot idle is usually right around 2. If it's a little low it will be just under 2 when I first get off of the freeway. Otherwise it tries to take the limiting pin off the top of the gauge.
That also is perfectly normal. One of my 240's has 250k miles itself - chief concern right now is timing chain replacement at about 12* degrees stretch. Try converting to synthetic oil this weekend, it will provide major performance improvement, better cold starts, improved mpg, and in my case it reduced oil consumption - that took me by surprise.
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  #19  
Old 12-29-2006, 01:24 AM
captainmonk's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: portsmouth nh-point pleasant nj
Posts: 554
until you change the oil know what your baseline is it is all guesswork on most of my diesel equipment without leaks as soon as i start adding oil it is due for a change Most on here dont care for this but I also believe in oil anaylasiss not to prolong oil changes but foreshadows blown head gaskets leaky injectors long b4 the noticable colored smoke out the exhaust
But again you need a baseline to start comparing anything to Blackstone Labs will give you a comparison on most any vehicle to what chemical makeup should be
Btw I have dear friend over in Monmouth beautiful country So different from East Coast
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commercial fisherman diesel in my blood in my boats trucks and Dear old Dad has had me drivin them since i got my first license in 1968
1986 300 SDL 427654
1999 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 225423
1986 300 SDL 287000 Dad's
1987 190 Turbo 158000 Mom's (my inheritance)
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  #20  
Old 12-29-2006, 05:16 AM
Geeeeenious
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Salem, Oregon (AKA: Methville)
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwhughes3 View Post
More than cool my son....they ROCK!
Wish I still had mine...one of these days I'll help my buddy rebuild his diesel IH Scout with an MB engine. Ultimate combo.

John
Funny you should mention that John,... I'm pondering that swap right now. The ol' girl spun a cam bearing not long ago and after aquiring the Benz, I'm thinking of adding Diesels to the fleet, then make my own fuel. Tell the oil barons to lick my.... you know.

Anyway, with what little internet time I've had lateley I've been over on the binder bulletin website looking at that possibility. I might have a line on a turbo'd 300D that would be best served to be canabilized. And depending how that went, I'd think about swapping out my 440's in the Dodges. But those motors would have to be much larger than our car engines.

Back to the subject at hand though.

Dog; I'll look at/for the synthetic. I never noticed a difference when I tried it in my gassers, but I've run mostly Castrol GTX, which is as close to the Amsoil as available "over the counter". This is the first real Diesel I've owned. (I don't count that Chevy LUV thing I had, though sometimes I regret letting my brother borrow/wreck it. )

Monk; I've thought of an analsys, but I think I'll wait until I've run some miles of my own driving on some new oil first. As for the beauty out here, it is nice.... for now. I'm affraid that in 20 ears it will look like the SF Bay area, drive 100 miles and never know ya left town. Too bad out state doesn't market itself accurately to those interested in moving here.

So,... is that air pressure thing normal? Thaks everyone! Love the discussions on here.
__________________
1981 MB 240D - 280K miles (My Iraqi LAPC )



My stable also includes:
2003 Honda Odyssey - Wife's van
1976 IH Scout 2 - SUV recovery vehicle
1967 Dodge W200 - The big block hauler (440/4sp.)
1966 Dodge D100 - The Redneck Racecar (440/727)
1925 Dodge Roadster - My electric car canidate

True health starts here
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  #21  
Old 12-29-2006, 07:27 AM
Shorebilly's Avatar
Marine Engineer (retired)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 1,268
Inter-related stuff......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyle E. Coyote View Post
Then I decided to do Scott's blow-by test. The engine was not yet up to temperature (it ran for 3-4 mins before I did this), but upon removing the oil fill cap I got only some air pressure. I was actually kinda surprised how much air pressure there was, but no smoke. Soooo,... does that mean that I don't have blow-by (because of the lack of oil smoke), or have I been awake too long again?

Thanks to everyone in advance.
Just a comment......be aware that all of the air/atmosphere pumped out of the Vacuum System by the Vacuum Pump, is discharged into the crankcase....so the more Vacuum Leaks that one has....the more volume of air passed thru the crankcase and .....during this test.....comes out of the oil fill......

......it is good engineering practice to maintain a SLIGHT pressure within a diesel crankcase......this is a preventative measure, against crankcase explosions......more common on larger diesels, but I think that the German designers had this in mind when they arraigned the vacuum pump discharge....

SB
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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG
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  #22  
Old 12-29-2006, 10:45 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwhughes3 View Post
More than cool my son....they ROCK!
Wish I still had mine...one of these days I'll help my buddy rebuild his diesel IH Scout with an MB engine. Ultimate combo.

John
My brother and I grew up with Scout's and learned to drive in them and my father had a diesel Scout with the Nissan engine that he drove all over for his vet practice. My brother just did a frame off restoration with a new fiberglass body on his and rebuilt engine. He can't wait for the body on my car to rust out so he can have my engine
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  #23  
Old 12-29-2006, 12:27 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
Part of what Shorebilly said and part of what others have mentioned here. I did a little scratching of my head and looking at the crankcase ventilation and I don't see how the "teakettle" test can tell you much. After all, there is no mention of plugging the normal crankcase vent that connects to the oil separator and then how much is "too much". The "teakettle" test might be a better test of blockage/lack of air flow from the crankcase.
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84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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  #24  
Old 12-30-2006, 02:05 PM
Geeeeenious
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Salem, Oregon (AKA: Methville)
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorebilly View Post
Just a comment......be aware that all of the air/atmosphere pumped out of the Vacuum System by the Vacuum Pump, is discharged into the crankcase....so the more Vacuum Leaks that one has....the more volume of air passed thru the crankcase and .....during this test.....comes out of the oil fill......

......it is good engineering practice to maintain a SLIGHT pressure within a diesel crankcase......this is a preventative measure, against crankcase explosions......more common on larger diesels, but I think that the German designers had this in mind when they arraigned the vacuum pump discharge....

SB
Thanks for all the info. So this info has me wondering if there might be a bit too much pressure in there. Where might I find the crankcase vent and how would I tell if it's blocked? Is it the same arrangement as most gas engines (the little "rattle valve", as I call it, on the valve cover), or someplace/something else?
__________________
1981 MB 240D - 280K miles (My Iraqi LAPC )



My stable also includes:
2003 Honda Odyssey - Wife's van
1976 IH Scout 2 - SUV recovery vehicle
1967 Dodge W200 - The big block hauler (440/4sp.)
1966 Dodge D100 - The Redneck Racecar (440/727)
1925 Dodge Roadster - My electric car canidate

True health starts here
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 12-31-2006, 07:34 AM
Shorebilly's Avatar
Marine Engineer (retired)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 1,268
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyle E. Coyote View Post
Thanks for all the info. So this info has me wondering if there might be a bit too much pressure in there. Where might I find the crankcase vent and how would I tell if it's blocked? Is it the same arrangement as most gas engines (the little "rattle valve", as I call it, on the valve cover), or someplace/something else?
The crankcase vent is the black elbow (just behind the oil fill cap), and associated plumbing that goes to the top of the air cleaner.....there is no PCV (rattle) valve that I am aware of.......

The air cleaner is under a slight vacuum, so vapors from the crancase (under slight pressure) flow into the air cleaner......and inside of the air cleaner housing, they are discharged into a "sort of" vapor condenser......and the oil vapor that is entrained with the air exiting the valve cover.....is somewhat removed, and drains back into the oil pan......

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG
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