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Newb questions & learning
I'm trying to do my homework before I make a bad buy. Hope this isn't the millionth time you guys have seen this. I want to get a diesel, but dont know what all the #'s and letters mean? 200, 300, 55, etc & D,SD, TD, etc...? Is there an archive or sticky to point me to? Also is there typical spots on MB to observe for rust ? Is the sprinter dodge/MB van 5 cylinder similar to the 617? & why do they call it a 617 or 603? I'm not looking for a van,just curious. Looking for a four door,family car, low maintanence & very reliable. Of course, cheap, is this a crazy wish?:wacko: I see some of you guys stumble on deals around $1,000. for early 80's models. Are these preferable years? Thanks ahead of time for any input.
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I put in "Class Designation" and "Letter Designation" in the Search tab and came back with a lot of reading.
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If you want a reliable car, it will not be low maintenance. Good maintenance is what keeps a reliable car, well, reliable.
240D is a 2.4 litre diesel 300D is a 3 litre diesel. The 300D was turbo charged for the 1982 model year. 1981 and below was not, except for the 300 SD. D means diesel. T means Touring (wagon) although some people use the T to mean turbo. S is a type of class, usually larger and more luxury features. A 300 SD is a larger car than a 300D The numbers can also mean class of car, like the 80's 190. The 190 came with a 2.2 litre diesel, a 2.5 litre, a 2.3 litre gas and a 2.6 litre gas. The 617 is an engine designation number, like the 603. Example, the 617.952 is the turbo charged one found in 1982 to 1985 models. The 617.951 was the turbo used in the SD prior to 1982. So on and so forth. You have come to the right forum, though. Also, there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes. |
http://www.benzworld.org/modelguide.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-benz http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_W123 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W124 From my quick learning, look for rust that will hurt the structural support of the car... in places like the wheel wells, along the drivetrain, the jack points, etc. Then if rust really bothers you, check along the bottom of the doors on the inside, you may need to pull the rubber out a little to see it. Along the bottom of the front and rear windows. Around the sunroof, the headlights, and the hood. As far as deals....just be patient. It took me a looooooooong time to find the one I have. Craigslist is a great place to start. Be careful on ebay, as I there have been some scams. (duh). People will say the early 80's 617 motor is pretty much indestructible, but......its mechanical...its not....but it does take a beating pretty well. |
The number part of the badge (like 240, 300, etc..) typically denotes the engine size, with the decimal place moved over a few digits. There are exceptions to this, like the 190 with a 2.2 or 2.5 liter, but those are obvious because you will see a 2.2 or 2.5 badge on the rear of the car as well.
A 240 is a 2.4 liter. A 300 is a 3 liter. If you're an air-cooled VW person, then you can just add an extra '0' and think of it a CCs instead. You know like the old (60's and earlier VW's and 50's Porsches) 1600 dual port air cooled motor is a 1.6 liter engine. That helped me really appreciate models like 500SEL or the 1000SEL (I actually saw one the other day!). Those are some big motors. The alpha part is pretty obvious, except for the "T" in "TD". It means Touring, not Turbo. There are both turbo and non-turbo versions of the TD, that's why people say "300TDT" for a turbo model. Maybe others can chime in and let me know if I'm generalizing too much, as I'm still learning these fine automobiles. |
retex, what do you mean? "early 80's 617 motor is pretty much indestructible, but......its mechanical...its not....but it does take a beating pretty well."
I mean, this part ; "but......its mechanical...its not....but it does take a beating pretty well." |
I think he is implying that the engine is virtually indestructable, denoting reliability. But since it is a mechanical device, it will eventually fail.
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The 617's { designation from MB brain trust } are long lasting engines, yet as with all things mechanical, MAINTENANCE, is an issue. Keep the oil changed, vac lines cleaned out. I have an '82 300D for sale, 226,000 miles, has issues. $1000. Starts, runs, stops. There is rust just under the left tail light, lower doors, front facia, the rear suspension arm, the most serious. Also has high blowby. CCU kinda works, high speed fan, heat only, regardless of buttons pressed, needs removal and resoldered. Needs front oil seal replaced, have the parts. This car is just taking up space, too much to deal with. I picked up something else as a commuter, an '83SD, which has a 617.951, so says the owners manual. Can't figure out how to send pics, could use help on that from anyone. Central Virginia. Work weekends, unable to attend N Va. meet.
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sorry about the confusion there guys. I meant to say its mechanical....its not indestructible. meaning that it will fail eventually. something will break. something will stop working. if not, these cars wouldnt be in the crushers and the question of how many miles is too much...well would never be asked.
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1000.00 car low maintenance? sorta...
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if you like this forum, and you are at least interested in low dollar repairs and can turn a wrench and a screwdriver, then a low dollar MB IN GOOD PHYSICAL shape will turn out to be low maintenance. the older the car, the more that will be ready to break. the trannys are built very well, the suspension is amazing, the breaks are above today's average car by a long shot. everything wears out though, so figure a car that cost over 30K in 1980 or so, and only costs 1K now (in 1980 $, that's about 250.00) is gonna have some issues that can be ignored, but shouldn't. also beware... if you get one and are even slightly car oriented... you'll get hooked... look at my sig. the first one was the 82SD, and it was free..... now I have 6!!! and i'ts only been since around march that I started with them. of course I am a complete lunitic when it comes to cars. I bought my house, because it has a nice shop... my wife can't belive I told the realtor selling it, this is my house. I love the shop, get it. she tells everyone, I did not care what the house looked like, I just wanted the shop. (almost 3 acres don't hurt) John |
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Dmorrison, BIG HELP !!! Thanks!!! I saved to favorites. I used to have a 280sl, but had too much trouble when wrenching myself (special tools for valve adjustment etc..) & was turned off by MB. (& of course no net back then) Are the diesels from 1980-1990, easier to wrench?
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Also another question, feel like Mr Columbo here, the model like 123.19x.(not sure if that exsist) is found on body or in vin or where? So if I look at a cars for sale I can understand for myself what I'm looking at. Just in case an old lady doesn't know anything cause her husband is gone now.
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look at the vin i think. i just always look at the body style to tell what kinda it is, the pick below is a 240D and a 300D. notice how they look exactly the same. The biege one is the 240 and the blue one is the 300. THey are the W123 body style. A particular favorite i'm seeing amoung members
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