I have an on going heater problem. Everything worked fine until I replaced the heater blower motor. After the replacement fuses #3 (heater blower motor) and #9 (servo and a/c compressor) blow.


I have done a search on this forum and did not find a problem like mine.

I am not going to start replacing parts until I find out what is wrong

Could it be the amplifier? My thoughts it may be sending to much current to the servo and blow motor and blowing the fuses.

Any ideas? Help

Ord

I have the exact problem on my 80 300sd. I put in a newer amplifier from my parts car and it still will not work. There is a master switch on the bottom of the servo. I think that my master switch is bad. I have an extra servo and I am going to switch it out and see if it will fix the problem. I am getting pretty cold so I want to get this thing fixed soon. If I fined out anything other than what I mentioned I will repost it here for you.

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1979 240d 216k (W123) Daily Driver
Volvo 245DL 210k

1979 300D FOR SALE
2002 Tahoe 91k FOR SALE

1980 300sd 177k (W116) Sold
1980 300sd Parts (W116) Junked
1979 240D 121k (W123) Sold
1982 300TDT 298K (W123) (Sold)

My heat switch on the bottom of the servo was bad as well. That switch senses when the engine coolant reaches a certain temp. and it allows the blow motor to blow warm air. You can bypass that switch by: 1) pushing in the def. switch and then the low or high switch or 2) turning on the a/c button.

Both of these methods will allow your heater blower to work if the heat switch is bad.

My problem is that I keep blowing fuses #3 and #9

I am helping byrdandcompany on his acc problem, and its puzzling to me as I am learning the "ins and outs" of the quaint Chrysler-designed system. We put a fuse in "#3" this morning as it was burnt, and his blower would work on "defrost" setting only (and you could hear the A/C compressor kick in). Blower would not work on any other setting. His blower quit working this afternoon, #3 fuse is not burnt, but there is also no voltage at #3 in the fuse box. My questions are as thus: Does this fuse only get 12V when the blower is called for? and how does a person go about performing some cursory tests to eliminate parts of this problem? His servo is actuating when the car is turned on, and you can hear it actuating when the temperature wheel is turned. I have looked briefly over the Chrysler Imperial ACC site, am well able to perform continuity, voltage, and resistance checks (I am a CNC maintenance technician) and vacuum tests to diagnose this problem. I guess I am looking for someone who has extensive experience with this system to guide us to localize which components are working and which aren't.

Anybody?