I forgot to mention that the C Press in the pic is mine but you can rent one from Autozone and if you return it; it is a free rental.
However, besure to inspect the upper part of the press as the one at the local Autozone was a little buggered up. Also the Autozone press (made by OEM) seemed to be better made.

Below is how I removed the Ball Joint from the Control Arm with no Press. You have to back off the Ball Joint Nut enough so that it is above the Threaded Shaft on the Ball Joint. This way ruins the Nut so if you were planning to reuse the Joint you will need a new nut.
Any way you hit the Nut with a 2 pound or more hammer.

If you are not worried about the Ball Joint you can heat the end of the arm but that will burn up the Boot.

Since doing the above just last week I have bought a Ball Joint Press that I hope will work as I need to replace the Boot on the other side.
Also I am thinking to pull a Steering Knuckle at the Junk Yard and I would not be able to beat off the Ball Joint there.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Tried that too but had to resort to cutting the stud then hammering out the remainder. I needed the space to swing the 2 lb hammer.

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1984 300 SD, 2 tank WVO
1996 Ram Cummins, 2 tank WVO,
2004.5 Ram Cummins, 2 tank WVO

I used a large pickle fork to get the joint off the control arm. Had to grind down one of the forks cause it was hitting the inside of the steering knuckle. A few really good whacks with a 5lb sledgehammer and it popped right off.
Some people say hitting the side of the steering knuckle pops it out.

I used the same autozone press. Worked great.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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Here are some posts that might help you:

Advanced Auto Ball Joint Press Tool

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

REALLY, don't hit the nut... just don't. it's a tapered fit, and hitting the nut will distort the shaft and cause binding. use a press, or hit the eye with two hammers described at the beginning of the thread by whunter.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I have done it a bunch of times times on my Mercedes and a whole bunch more on other jobs at the various places I worked at (Bosses do not like to buy Special Tools).
I did when I removed my Lower Control Arms the first time and although the Bores in my Lower Control Arms were oversized due to rust I had to get the car on the road and installed the new LCA Bushings.
I did it again when I got some good used LCAs and had to remove the old ones and change it.
And, I did it last week when I changed the Boot on one.
And if my new Tool does not work I will have to do it again to change the boot on the other side.
So I have beat on the same Ball Joints abunch of times to get them out and nothing except the nut has distorted.
But, I admit it is a desperate act.

If you back the nut out enough the Nut and the threads take the Impact. The Hammer does not make contact with the Shaft. Obviously you have to hit it straight and a heavy slow moving Hammer is less likely to bend than a light fast moving Hammer.
Because the Shaft is tapered that is why it works; when it releases it releases completely.
I would like to try that Double Hammer Method but I do not think I could do it by myself (just to see if it works) and I don't think I could get my Wife to hold the other Hammer for me. Just the thought if the slightest physical pain sends my Wife running.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have found backing off the nut above the stud threads (so it can be unscrewed later) always work to pop the tapers from each other IF you have it well supported on the bottom.

Here's another way to knock the lower ball joint out. I've knocked one out this way with ease. I'll be knocking another one out soon and hope it will be just as easy.

Red neck lower ball joint removal

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

If you are speaking of the Lower Ball Joint that is exactly what I did. If you notice in the Pic the Nut is backed off.

However, that ruins the Nut so you need to know where you are getting a new Nut before you start.
In my case there is an Industrial Hardware Store not 1 mile away that had another nut.
In the pic hit in the direction of the down ward arrow.
The good news is that I bought bunch of used Mercedes Tools and one of them was the Lower Ball Joint Press; so I won't be beating any joints of any more.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel