Oil leak at the filter housing.

Seems like an easy enough solution - replace the gasket at the junction btwn the filter housing and the engine block, in theory that is. . .

Can anyone who has done this job share a step by step. Is there a write-up somewhere out there?

Thanks.

T

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'82 240D, 215,000 +
Classic White, Regenbogen

I am interested in information on this subject as well. I have the same problem.

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2005 Accord Hybrid (Wifes)
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD (Snow car)
1984 GMC Sierra 1500 (Mine)
1983 300CD Best $ I ever spent. (Mine)
1984 190D (sold and glad I did)
1983 300D (sold and wished I hadn't)

I've done it years ago on my '82. I wound up taking the entire filter housing out so that I could clean the gasket surfaces well. It's a messy job and space is limited. However, i consider it a DIY job.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
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'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

Have you tried tighting the bolts? I've read that will often do the trick. Removing that housing is a PITA.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I did this repair not too long ago. It is pretty straight forward you just have to plenty of patience and make sure you clean all the old gasket out or it will leak. When I removed it, the old gasket was hard as a rock.
In the 300D you have the steering box in the way. To get to the bolts that are near it I used a 6mm hex wrench attached to a vice grip for added leverage. For the rest I use my 6mm hex socket/ratchet.

Loosen the cooler lines first. I use a cresent wrench to do this and then remove the oil turbo line which I used a 19mm box/open end wrench. For the oil pressure line, I used a 12mm flare nut wrench. Once all the lines are loosened, you can remove the 5 hex bolts. The housing will be either be stuck in place or it will simply fall off. If stuck, gently pry it off the engine block. There is some plastic valve pieces in the housing that can get broken, so be careful as to not slide the housing back and forth against the block.

Again once off clean the mating surfaces very well. This is very important. Replace with new gasket dry (no silicone sealant) and reverse the install procedure. I couldn't use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts because of the space limitations, but I tightened it to what I thought was good (and I couldn't tell you how to do that... I just know).

I got my gasket from a local parts store here in my town, but others say to use only OEM Mercedes gaskets because they last longer. Not sure what to believe because my local parts store gasket seemed to have the same material as the one I took off.

Here is another thread on this subject which Brian Carlton has some good tips here.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=158626&highlight=oil+housing+gasket

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CJ

1983 300D 12X,XXX

I solved a leak at that location by simply tightening the bolts on my 409d. Worth a try.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Thanks guys. This is one I feel like I can do myself if I take my time and try not to get too frustrated. Mechanic suggested that I might jack up the engine as well to clear the steering box.

Chicago: How were those 5 hex bolts? pretty tough? or did they ease right out? I've read horror stories about the starter hex and I'll be sure to clean them out really well to get a good seat with the wrench but I've never had much luck getting rusted bolts free.

Can you guys think of any reason not to replace the old hex bolts with regular hex head bolts?

This is what I get for letting laziness get the best of me. I just had her in for the insurance covered transmission work. While she was there I went ahead and let them replace 4 calipers, rotors, ball joints, steering damper and idler arm bushing. All told it set me back a bit. Insurance for the tranny debacle payed for all of the parts but I had to foot the labor. This mechanic is getting payed better than my dad did as an ER doc. He don't come cheap and ,probably, I could have RR'd the brakes and damper easily myself. But, I had had some scary issues with the brakes seizing on the highway early on and I just wanted to drive home a practically reissued Mercedes.

She's dreamy now. But to get this oil leak taken care of I'm gonna have to DIY cause I don't feel like paying for any more of his horses (this guy's a competitive trail rider not a sailor). A tougher job than brakes, maybe more fun though.

I blew up a 1600cc VW engine once. I don't want to lose this one.

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'82 240D, 215,000 +
Classic White, Regenbogen

One thing to note is that there is a sort of a trapazoidal plate at the bottom back side of the housing. This is where the turbo oil feed line is installed. It was not leaking at the time, but I decided to replace it while I had the housing out.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
-------------------------------------
'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

One thing that I might add because this happened to me twice. When pulling the oil filter housing...If the oil pressure line nut (12mm) wont turn FREELY on the hose (stuck togather) dont get in a hurry and cut the line, its over $50. Let the other end go at the gauge and pull it all out.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

That's right. No cutting lines. I'll have your advice in mind, Stevo, if I get the urge.

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'82 240D, 215,000 +
Classic White, Regenbogen

On my car the hex bolts were tight but not too bad because there is no rust..... It's a California car. I agree that the starter bolts are bad, on my car they were an absolute PITA! For your car since you are up north, I would PB Blaster it for a few days and let it soak good. You should spray the bolts and the mating surface of the block and housing.

I don't see a problem with replacing the hex bolt with ones with a different head.

Good point, I also change mine while the housing was off.

EDIT: I meant to say I changed the gasket of the plate while the housing was off.

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CJ

1983 300D 12X,XXX

Why?

Or did you mean to say that you replaced the gasket?

Right, I meant to say gasket. I also had the housing bead blasted to make it look nice and clean.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
-------------------------------------
'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

Hello check out the link to Brian Carlton's advice and follow it. That definitely worked. The other thing I found out was to use a 6mm wrench on the 6mm hex socket worked pretty good. You will need the longer end of the allen key to get the bolts out of the top of the housing. Also with the 6mm wrench you can get a piece of pipe to use as a cheater bar. I don't have a leak from that gasket any more. Good Luck

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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

It's amazing how well things work when the size of the tool matches the size of the fastener. Trying to use a 8mm wrench on a 6mm bolt can be just plain, downright frustrating!!!