Oh what a lovely Christmas. Spent 5 hours stranded in DC due to the fact that when I stopped to get coffee at 2am, my key would not turn back the whole way, so I could not get my key out of the ignition, and because I couldn't get the key out I could not restart the car. Basically it did the same thing as if I didn't have it in park and tried to take the key out, but it was definitely in park! It doesn't seem as if it's the ignition switch is bad, it seems as if the thing that tells the ignition switch that the transmission is in park is bad. So after the tow truck came, I had him lift up the car and I located this part (does anyone know the name of it?) which I guess senses what position the gearshift is in. I pulled off the harness, and took a piece of wire to jump the terminals, and none seemed to release the key, but when I jumped two of them I was able to overide whatever keeps the car from restarting without taking out the key first, but it also eliminated the starter position, so basically my two options are to run the engine simultaneously with the starter, or the off position. What I ended up doing was getting the car started and pulling out the jumper to turn the starter off. So, in this long winded post, what I need to know what is bad? Does it sound like I need a new ignition, or gearshift sensor?? I am hoping gearshift sensor becuase that looks much easier to replace!!

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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head

The neutral safety switch could have failed or is failing.

Probably the ignition key cylinder. This needs tended to soon because in a short time you will not be able to turn it at all which will neccesitate drilling out the cyl and lock pin! What you did was jumper around the neutral safety switch. Which has nothing to do with the mechanical ignit. switch lock cylinder. Within the cylinder are a number of "pins" that fall in specific height to match your specific key allowing it to rotate, one or more of them is worn enough that it is jambed between the key and the bore of the cylinder.

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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE.

Is the switch that locks the key in when not in park or neutral a electronic device or mechanical? I have had these apart (in manual transmission MBs) and can't picture how this lock would operate. AFAIK the steering lock and tumbler are the same for standard and auto transmissions.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I just spoke to the local MB mechanic, and he thinks it's either the tumbler or the steering lock. I've also read on this site about bushings wearing out, but I would think that if this was the cause, that I would have eventually been able to get the key out by wiggling the shifter, which I tried to no avail.

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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head

It looks as if the steering lock and the tumbler are one unit? I can get the part MUCH cheaper than the $100 the mechanic quoted me, but I need to know what the proceedure is for changing it? It looks as if it needs a special tool, but I do not see any tool listed to take it out.

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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head

I'm a bit confused by your entire experience. You appear to be chasing a shifter issue, however, AFAIK, the shifter has no influence on whether you can remove the key.

I'm almost positive that the key can be removed with the shifter in any position.

So, if this is true, your problem is simply the lock cylinder. This must be obtained from the dealer at a cost of about $100. if you want the key to match the doors. You'll need your VIN and title that proves you own the vehicle.

The removal of the lock is done with a small wire or screwdriver down the tiny hole in the face of the cylinder. I was quite successful with a jewelers screwdriver. When you buy the new cylinder, practice on the new one to see what your objective it. Then, go to the old one in the vehicle and turn the key to the #1 position which aligns the mechanism with the hole (you'll see this on the new cylinder as well).

The screwdriver (or wire) is inserted into the hole and used to press the engagement dog back so that you can rotate the cylinder housing. The housing unthreads from the body of the cylinder. The engagement dog will get caught every time that it comes around, requiring some depression of the dog each time the cylinder rotates 360 degrees. To rotate the cylinder, get yourself some needlenose pliers and tape the tips so you don't scratch it. Needlenose with the 90 degree tips are the best for this job.

Whatever you do, don't continue to drive it the way it currently is. If the cylinder ever gets to the point where it won't turn to the #1 position, you're looking at a $600. repair. I came very close to suffering this with the SD. The old cylinder came to pieces in my hands upon removal.

Brian,
Thanks for the info. One question, what is the #1 position? I hope it's not the position where the key comes out, because that's the only position I can't get it to go into. Currently I am just leaving the key in the run position, and jumping the starter. I have no choice but to drive it like this for the next couple of days, the bad thing is I only have one key, which is stuck in the ignition, so I can't lock the doors. The mechanic I spoke with was confused about the key not turning when not in park also. It's always been like that. He said they began using this type of system in 88, but maybe they also put it in late 87s.

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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head

The #1 position is the first "notch" clockwise felt from totally off when trying to start the car. It is also the one the lets you turn the radio on.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

As RR mentioned, it's the first notch from the position where you remove the key.

From where you are in the run position (#2), it's one click counter-clockwise. You must get it in this position to remove the cylinder.

I shall repeat, if you wait too long to repair and cannot turn the key, you will go from a simple lock cylinder replacement to having to drill it out. You make no mention of the steering wheel lock not releasing so for now that part is ok. Brian Carlton is dead on regarding replacement. The ignition switch has no interlock with the shifter unlike most American cars. With the key removed and the steering wheel locked, you can move the shifter to any position. You MUST get the ket to no. 1 position. WD40 sprayed in, compressed air using a small nozzle, anything that would free up the tumblers allowing key rotation. Good Luck!

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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE.

I changed out the ignition tumbler today, and wanted to point out that the above mentioned proceedure does not work, at least for my car. Once you get the wire in the two holes (a real pain) you don't turn anything, you just give it a good yank and both the tumbler and the housing come off. It took me about 40 minutes to get the wire in the right spot, it's definitely not easy, hope I never have this problem again! Anyway, it works great now, but the bad thing is I now have a different key for the ignition and the door locks, but I can't complain, I only paid $16 for a brand new German made tumbler and two keys!

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87 300D - Running on Veggie oil; 260,000 plus miles; Original #14 head

Is that right?

If you don't need to unthread the collar, then the W124 is different than the W126.

The locking dog on the W126 prevents rotation of the collar. It appears that the dogs on the W124 simply allow you to pull it straight out??