Well, I couldn't wait till Monday, so I got up early and started in. Regarding the test from the fuel tank, I applied vacuum to the plastic filter that comes from the tank, fuel flowed easily. I disconnected the spin on filter assembly and did not find any obstruction. Cleaned it and put it back on. Bled system and engine started. I have no idea at this point what the cause of the obstruction was. I drove it in to work, 32 miles, and I'll see what happens after it sits for 10 hours. I did bring all my tools with me just in case. I don't think the wife wants a call late at night to come pick me up. Thanks for all your help. By the way, what would be the best additive for the ULSD to keep my baby running? Any suggestions?
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Strange fuel stoppage....
My mistake...I see now.....you had the vacuum pump hooked to the (output) of the filter...using the mighty-vac like it was the lift pump....... you were pulling the vacuum through the clear plastic filter from the fuel tank...That is a good test.......my apologies....
Could be that there is sediment that will slowly clog the screen in the tank as long as fuel is being pulled from the tank....when the suction is removed from the screen when the engine is shut off...it will slowly fall off the screen over a period of time and partial normal flow will resume...until next time... I had this happening on a 2001 Saturn Station Wagon...almost drove me crazy......cleaned the tank and changed fuel pickup screen and all was fine.... On the 123 series the fuel screen is easy to get to under the car....yours should be similar...If you drain the tank you can look down inside to see its condition by removing the fuel sending unit easily and inspecting with a good flashlight......kevin |
Diesel Additive
The Bosch IP shop here uses Stanadyne for fuel system maintenance....There are a lot of additives out there and I have used several....I use about 50% homemade biodiesel so that takes care of the lube properties but I have heard a lot of good about Lucas upper cylinder lubricant added to the fuel for lube and injection system cleaning purposes....If you have a sediment problem in the tank, no additive will take care of that unless it is soluble like a gum or varnish.... I think the stanadyne and diesel purge may be very similar....they both smell exactly alike....I think the stanadyne is a little less costly.....On my old 240D...anything I dump in the tank burns without complaint...Engine runs the same.....only thing I notice is a difference in the exhaust smell....
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Thanks alot for all the input, I've been kicking around the idea of making biodiesel, didn't realize it would help out with the ULSD. When I first got my car, I did have an algae problem that took many filters to clean with eveything I was putting in the tank to clean it up. I finally puchased the fuel conditioner kit which finally cleaned up the tank, I also changed the tank screen at that time. Haven't had any sediment or algae problems since then. Like I said, I have no idea what happened, but this forum seemed to help out. If there was an obstuction, which I'm sure there was, I must have missed it when I pulled out the filter unit. Fortunately, all the help here saved me $$$$, towing fees, diagnostic fees, and who knows what else...
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Fuel Flow
I have been lucky with the fuel systems on my two ....I heard but have not conformed that just 5% biodiesel added to the new diesel returns the lube properties to the old diesel levels......I get free used high quality cooking oil and it is so easy and fun to make the biodiesel that I run.... anywhere from 50% to 100% in the summer......I am going to put on a big Caterpillar fuel/water separator just for peace of mind anyway....
Keep a can of that canned air with you and if yours does it again...just disconnect from the clear filter and blow back to the tank to see if that clears the screen.... Barry1234 has good advice about removing the fuel cap before blowing the line..... |
If you had posted your location it might have helped. It might be getting cool enough to gell your fuel in the lines overnight. That is if you are in an area with the right temperature spread. If you suspect that is it just buy an additive to decrease flow or buy and add some kerosene. I love spending other peoples money.:D Remember it was running well when you parked it that evening. Temperature probably dropped off overnight somewhat. You may get a replay at work so I hope this note reaches you. Now comes the hard part where you inform me you reside in florida.:) Just a thought probably wrong.
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I'm actually in Los Angeles, I think the coldest it's been where I'm at is the low 40's. Not a freezing temp, but I didn't seem to have this problem last year. Thanks
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lift pump testing
3 Attachment(s)
Kevin,
Is there any reasonable way to test the lift pump off the car? I have two similar pumps, but the one on the right requires almost 2x the force to depress the roller than the one on the left. any ideas? The better one will go on my vehicle. |
Quote:
You could remove the Big Plug in the center of the Pump as the Spring is under there and see if any of the Coils are broken; but it is rare for that to happen. (Be careful as with out Copper or Aluminum Jaws on your vice the pump wants to slip out; and the little drilled Flange Ears are easy to break to.) The other thing that can go wrong is that the Springs for the Plastic Valves can sometimes rust in two if water has gotton inside and it has sat there for a long time. But, in the end it is easier to put a Pump on the IP and try it. |
Being hard to press can mean either the pump is damaged or the spring is strong and healthy.
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Quote:
one is clearly fp/k22MW21 from the 617.912 while the other is " " MW22 from the 617.952. Which correctly identifies my sources. No need to test then, since I have a .952 |
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