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#1
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ball joints
i am driving a 1980 300sd with say 240000 on it...the odometer stopped. i ahve a small oil leak everytime i stop the car which i thought was coming from one of the two oil lines off the oil cooler but i am beginning to question myself
when i am rolling down the highway and i turn the steering wheel either way i here a loud popping noise...and when i roll over rr tracks it sounds like my balljoints need help... my question is...its a major thing to have the balljoints redone and is that going to quiet things doen in the car... other than that i know i need shocks and my brakes looked at because my brakes are soft.... help help please lyle |
#2
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That car with that many miles it could be alot of things. There are tons of suspension joints under there. If your not suspension/mechanic savvy, I suggest taking it to a reputable source to have all of them checked.
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--------------------------- No matter how many times you explain it to me, I'm still right.....Surf-n-Turf |
#3
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Someone needs to get under the car and start inspecting for torn or missing boots, loose joints and rust. Sometimes if a boot is missing or damaged and the joint is still tight, then some lube and reseal of some sort may be enough. If the joint is loose or rusty, it's better to replace it though.
As for the brakes, definitely check the pads, rotors, brake lines, and brake fluid level. It may be just air in the system that needs to be bled. The brake pedal should never feel mushy.
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual) Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL |
#4
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240k, many opportunities for leaks, oil, brake fluid, or power steering fluid, for that matter, difficult to nail down, as motion will spread fluid around the undercarriage. Oftentimes, a leak is around the front crank oil seal, will drip on a crossmember, and drop to ground away from actual spot of leak, it's rubber, wears out and is replacable. Crawl under the front of the car while engine is running, shine a flashlight on the front crank, you might see oil dribbling out. However, first check the P/S reservoir for fluid, and potential hose damage, as you mentioned odd steering noises. Brake lines too. Ball joint failure is quite serious! You know the shocks are bad, easy install, do it soon. Do you have any other symptoms? Routine "clunckling"? Steering not following wheel? Should be able to tell at most speeds. Jack up the entire front end, check for torn boots, try to move wheel back and forth, preferably with engine running and someone holding the steering wheel, feel for play. Soft brake pedal has nothing to do with pads. A brake fluid bleed will certainly help. Please address front end SOON.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#5
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reply
as far as oil i am looking at oil lines from cooler...
the odd steering noises are as you are going down the road and you tweek the wheel in one or the other direction....as soon as you steady it will stop...on this i am totally clueless i am about to either sell this car and not drop the money into it or buy another one....as far as leaks yes i have to get her into the shp...i am going to do that this week i think if i decide to keep her the first thing i need to do is find the oil leak next is suspension so much money...shop here is 90 an hr |
#6
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Yep, their should be zero play in them Any play and they are no good. When installing the lower ball joints just pop out the old ones and bring it to the dealership. Im quoted at 46$ to put in new ones. unless you have the proper press (the lowers require a special press of course.)
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#7
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Check DIY's on oil cooler lines, have not done this. Do you feel anything in the steering when it makes noises? Tie rods perhaps. Good luck.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#8
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My motivation for getting the FSM and a Haynes Manual and learning to do things myself. I'm going to be doing some major front end work soon and I'll probably just by the $200 ebay spring compressor because I know I'll need it again for my project car that's been sitting in a junkyard for at least five years. I can understand things like taking the ball joints in to have them pressed out. For things like that I can justify spending the money but I just can't bear the thought of paying my indy $60 an hour for things I can easily do myself. Being a poor college student also is a big factor. I'd rather invest the money in good German parts.
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Seth 1984 300D 225K 1985 300D Donor body 1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!! 1980 300SD 311K My New Baby. 1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo |
#9
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that kind of popping is a sign, mine pops as well when sharp with the braking.
going to have both lowers done along with an alignment at mb. might be a few extra bucks but will track straight proper. put your rig up and pull your wheels off, changing some brakes is a breeze. |
#10
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Wow, only $60/hr in your area? The local indys here are asking nearly $100 an hour, and the dealer is over that. THAT is what gave me the final motivation to learn some of the tasks that I would have otherwise considered taking to a shop.
As to getting the lower ball joint pressed in, call around and make sure that at least one shop in your area actually HAS the press to work on a w126 car. My local dealers didn't, nor did most of the indy's. The one that did, pressed mine in for free, and even offered to let me have another spindle with one pressed into it, just to get me back on the road, on the condition that I brought mine and the ball joint to them the next day to replace it! It's not a hard task, but well worth it to read a few of the safety threads on doing that, as you really don't want to learn what a spring feels like after it decides to get to know you better and jumps it's perch! Happy wrenching!
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
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